This channel showcases the many aspects of my love of building a wide variety of things. Primary focus is machine tools and radio controlled cars, but may wander to related fields from time to time. Thanks for stopping by!
Myself, I usually check ebay first. Sometimes can find a deal on NOS replacement parts like that. Gits is a big name for those, so including that in a search may help too.
The machine is almost 38" wide, so I'm going to say no it won't fit. I have the advantage of a 7 foot wide garage door and ramp leading into my basement. The frame of the machine is welded up too, so unfortunately it couldn't be disassembled to fit either.
Sorry, I double checked the machine and my statement about it being disassembled isn't quite true. If you were real intent on that model, I could the bottom section of the unit being taken off and the machine turned sideways to reduce it's size to just under 32" to fit through your doorway. The machine is actually composed of 3 sections stacked on top of each other. It would take a little work but I can see the bottom section (which is primarily just for the wheels) being taken off to reduce it's size.
I am also interested in it for 3d printing and laser cutter finishing. Do you have any updates 4 years on? Is it usefully enough that you've got it near your bench or is it situational enough that it's in a deep drawer?
Yeah, that would be a cool setup. Both spindle drive and feed would need to sync with each other, but I'm sure it could be done. Working on a variable speed DC drive for the spindle right now though.
Love this mod.. I want to make some soft jaws for this little vise and I'm thinking they could fasten to the existing jaws just like the plates do. Did you ever make any yourself?
Thanks! No, since I got a bigger mill a few years back I haven't used the Taig or vise all that much anymore. I'd imagine that, like you say, soft jaws could be made relatively easy. Might be nice to cut some grooves in one side too for holding small, round stock better.
Looks hardly used,,,I just bought a craftsman atlas lathe 12 x 36 but has the quick change gear transmission, I did good 800 dollars and the tools I got was probably worth that,,, 4 and 6 inch chucks also,,,,I put a treadmill DC motor with potentiometer speed control , unbelievable power,,, I've switched my drillpress and band saw with them also and my wood lathe..
Very nice! Yeah I actually did similar to mine now too. Got that nice quick change on there and a DC variable motor setup too. Sure speeds up things for different operations.
I have the same lathe but mine was not used for along time and is very dirty. I’m in hopes that mine will look like yours by the end of the summer 2020.
I have been looking at other brands including Gravotech. A similar machine from them costs well over $25,000. When I asked the rep about the price difference he says that the Boss uses Chinese parts that are inferior and wear out faster. The LS-1630 is way cheaper so we are considering it from a cost standpoint but are hesitant to pull the trigger on it because of what this other guy said. What do you think?
hi, I'm doing this kind of project for my final project of undergraduate degree. May I ask these questions? 1. is that kind of heating elements arrangement heat evenly throughout the plastic sheet? I'm still under uncertainty which type of heater should I choose, is that wire heater just like yours, or using ceramic infrared heater. 2. speaking of the vacuum tanks, do you really calculate the volume required for given forming area? Thanks before, have a wonderful day!
To answer your questions, 1. I actually have not used the unit's heaters for heating a sheet of plastic yet. The large size seemed nice at the time I bought it, but when you want to make a small part, it's a waste to have to use a big sheet. I actually build a reducing window for the plastic holding frame and the platen. It's 1 foot square and I use a large toaster oven for heating it. Being inside a convection oven like that does heat pretty evenly. I don't have a ton of experience on the matter, but I'd go with the ceramic infrared heater myself. I actually did buy a pair of those for my original plan of building the unit myself from scratch. 2. No, I've never sat down and calculated volume of vacuum needed for the forming area. I find the vacuum motor alone sufficient for most jobs.
...Also wanted to say, good luck with your project! I'm not the most knowledgeable person, but I'll certainly give my 2 cents if you have any other questions along the way. :)
I'm no expert, but I think it's mostly heat and speed settings. I don't have any rules of thumb to go by, but more thermally conductive materials like brass and aluminum I try to burn in hotter and slower. Clean surfaces are of course important too, but heat especially. Of course like you can see here, the extra heat does tend to cause warping though.
I just picked up a machine like yours 101.04703 made in 1952. What model tool post are you using? I want to add one to mine and did you have to make any mods for the tool post?
I'm using an Aloris AXA tool post. The only modification I did to make it work was to cut down the edges of the nut it came with into a true "T" nut shape.
Good job, but those cut pieces flying through the work table are not so cool to see, and first of all they could be dangerous for the laser head if they meet its path.
I like to have a similar one. I have limited space in my kitchen to work. I bought taig 4-5 years ago and I made hundreds of shaving razor and brushes and some pen and other things and could make more, but lack of workshop I have to do what I can. Great small lathe. I only don't like Tailstock live center supplied by Taig, but others are fine. I'm a self-learner.
Thanks for the video. I want to set up something like this. Have you upgraded your set up? If you were to do it again, what power supply would you use? Thanks again.
No, the feed is too fine for that. It's not linked to the spindle head either so I can really cut accurate threads with this. Just meant for getting a nice, uniform looking finish on parts.
