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This video is wrong and backwards, she is pouring the solution into the insulated primary drain which normally goes to a drain under a bathroom sink since she is in an attic and outside she shows water coming out of the non insulated pvc pipe which is coming from the secondary drain pan. Also the float switch in the secondary port of the coil is blocking water from entering the drain pan making the 2nd float switch in the pan unnecessary.
This was the 6th video I watched on how to deal with (and prevent) a clogged A/C condensation line and THE ABSOLUTE BEST ONE! It was very simple and straight forward. I'll definitely do this monthly to keep the line from clogging up again. Thanks!
My condensate line doesn't have a cap.......and air blows out of it when the blower runs. Also, even though I see water down that pipe, I don't see any coming out into the floor drain. It that line supposed to have a cap?.....and should I always see water running out of the drain line?
call an A/C tech for service. you should have two 3/4in pipes for condensation outlets.. one to the main sewer line, probably a sink and the other for the pan for when it over fills
@@mathewshoyt1763 What pan? The pan under the water heater? I have a pan under the water heater separate from the furnace unit. But what about the cap? She removed a cap from her condensate line. Mine is open and air blows out of it. Is it supposed to be that way, or should it have a cap like in this video?
@@RealRickR Yes, yes, but what about the cap? She removed a cap from that line. Should mine have a cap? Should air be blowing out the drain line? What about yours Rick? Does your condensate line have a cap like in this video? Does air blow out of yours? Maybe they want air blowing through it to help keep it from getting plugged up.
Always *edit* any time youre looking to stick 2 or more things together you're going to be looking at about 80% prep work(made up number). Whether you're applying caulk mortar glue or anything make sure your surfaces are cleaned and prepped for their specific product to ensure it will last as long as intended.
Once a month? My central air conditioner and condensate hose are both 46 years old and I've never cleaned the hose and never had a problem with the hose.
I like how they show these videos how easy something is with perfect conditions plywood lay down you can stand up in the attic plenty of room show real life situations
Up in the NE, many condensate lines empty to the sump pit (basement floor) or laundry tub (usually via a small pump) because our systems are in the basement, but it is important to flush the line and remove crud, mold, etc. It also help keep the sump pit, pump and discharge lines clean as well. The condensate line also doubles as the humidifier drain for winter heating operation.
Yes all condensate drains in my area within 5 miles or so....have furnace/blower inside house...the condensate line therefore goes into a (very old) metal pipe directly under furnace area..and into the slab....and from there on, its not visible. So I will try vinegar and water soon and hope its working...guess it will if it doesnt back up under the furnace area.
Before they added that float in the system, we never heard of flushing a condensation line.. My old system went 21 years and never clogged, my new one has done it each year, and it's always in the middle of the night.. I bet technicians love the overtime they get for this stupid code change..
Um, the float is to keep it from being a disaster. Your new unit just must put off way more condensation compared to the old one. Pay for a yearly maintenance plan and they will come do a PM in it twice a year, usually, to keep those things from happening and the PM plans are generally cheaper than a one time maintenance call.
@@patrickmeyer358 The way they averted disaster before this was a simple back up drain that drained into an alternative location that was very visible, alerting the home owner than the main drain had an issue. I am on a maintenance program that has them here 2 times a year, but they don't do anything to the drain other than look at it and see that it's not clogged at the time the are here.. With the over whelming number of videos on this subject, maybe they will begin some form of preventive measures to stop this.. I never even heard of a condensation drain clogging before they started with this type system, and no matter if my new system condensates more than the old one, a 3/4 inch drain line should be more than adequate to handle that amount or they need to change that specification. This is a way for A/C companies to get a repair fee for a simple fix because of a poor design.
Couple of issues with insulating the attic: 1. You now are allowing the living space heat to radiate into this area increasing heating cost. 2. With no air flow there's no air exchange and that can lead to trapped moisture and mold. This is especially true in a climate prone to freezing temperatures. In a hot climate, I would apply a heat reflecting material to the underside of the roof and install active attic ventilation, while insulating the living space lid (ceiling) to minimize heating / cooling square footage. Just my opinion, but I've worked as a director of architecture for a 500+ home/ year builder and been in the building business for 35+ years.
Water is the enemy of buildings. Large roof overhangs add beauty and protection for doors, walls and windows. Blower door testing and air sealing are under appreciated tools for energy savings and comfort. Outside grading and landscaping are often after thoughts when building a home. Proper slope and water drainage is a must.
Just wish contractors would show things like this on a Mobile Home central air unit. Yes I know they have the same components but thje unit is somewhat different and it would help us identify things so we could do this as well. Mine is a Miller furnace with a Nordyne condenser. 2010 year home.
Off. There should be a switch right next to the furnace... reason it should be off is Incase water is leaking from a pipe down beneath and can make contact with electric wires
Off is preferred. There is a chance during operation with that cap removed the air pressure differential may cause some water to blow out of the open port. Not a huge deal, and it won't be a lot of water, but why not avoid a mess. To the clown talking bout electric wires. I've seen units running in 6" of standing water. You really don't know how electricity works, and it shows. To the other clown talking about the switch. Per code there is to be a switch that shuts the unit down. You think the furnace is separate from the air conditioning?
To the clown calling people clowns . As a hvac tech for 40+ years I have never seen blow back from a condensate line . If anything it would have a negative suction if the trap was empty . So take that to the circus 😂
We don't have our HVAC unit in the attic in CA but the ducts are in the attic. So maybe not as dramatic but those ducts heat up most likely. I wonder if this really means is a radiant barrier on the roof ceilng along with the insulation on the ceiling.
This is a great tip . In northern climates just before you start operating your A/C this service should be done . The trap buried in ground outside of home in video keeps bugs from entering homes , if you all were wondering.
This is way more expensive, and what happens when you have a leak? Any builder with a triple digit IQ is not going to put HVAC in the attic. Unfortunately, there are a lot of bad contractors. Your heating and cooling is going to be more expensive too because you have way more space to condition.
@@ProductKingReviews I live in Carrollton GA in a home built in the 70s and I have a passively vented attic, and there is no HVAC equipment in my attic. In a vented attic, the only thing that should be up there is large amounts of insulation.
@@HTHAMMACK1 I’ve been in over 7,000 attics in the last 9 years in South GA near Savannah. I’m Not a hvac tech but my job requires attic work. At least 95% I’ve ever been in the Air Handler is in the attic and the HVAC unit is on the outside next to the house. It’s just how it’s done. The other 5% can vary, sometimes it’s in a closet like in the hallways or near the laundry room. My grandma actually had her air handler in her hallway in a closet but it’s very rare.
Not correct, it is routine for one system to be in the attic to serve the 2nd floor since it is nearly impossible to A/C the 2nd floor from the basement.
Not a "conditioned attic" just more insulated and unvented attic. Its common here in California pretty much a standard to have new roofs require insulation below roof deck for T24.
hello,is spray foam on roof deck approved by insurance companies? i see pro's and con's to this type of attic system-if the roof needs to be replaced ...and plywood is bad....ouch.... it looks like the system is good in northern climates but roof shingles do not last as long in warmer climate's-just my own looking around online,thanks
I'm shaking my head and almost laughing at the claim in the video description. A conditioned attic means a greater volume of air to be conditioned. A conditioned attic means you have a larger surface area to insulate to slow down heat transfer. That's definitely less energy efficient. Of course if you MUST put your HVAC in the attic then you want to make the attic conditioned for what I believe should be obvious reasons. The winner is definitely an unconditioned, vented attic on a house that has a proper air seal. And here you're talking new construction, so a proper air seal would be easy to do compared to a renovation.
Agreed…..more square feet to cool(more expensive). Most likely need to size up an AC unit(more expensive). No where for it to escape through ventilated roofs. Roofing materials must take a beating with this way of doing it. Matt Reisinger also mentions this in a couple of his videos….just wonder if these guys will ever give us real world results after a couple years? Be nice for someone to post that owns a conditioned attic.
I'll say this, we had a large 2 story house and they put in an AC unit in the attic for the second floor. Whenever outside temps reach over 90F the unconditioned vented attic space gets so hot that the AC unit can't handle it. Indoor temps won't drop below 78F no matter what. AC will run all day. It works fine when outside temps are around 80-85F though. House was built around 2000 and is in the northeast where we get all 4 seasons. I guess the ducting from basement to 2nd floor wasn't possible? Idk what options we even have to make it better at this point outside of trying to insulate between the roof joists? Or switching out the attic units with ductwork to some room based mini split solution or something. Clearly having equipment and ductwork up in that attic space is not good.
Beautiful home in the highly desirable Addison Park at Town Center community! Already, Town Center families enjoy the convenience of being able to walk and bike to everything, including Publix Supermarket, centralized amenities, and weekly and monthly resident events.
