The OUTSIDESCREWBALL channel are videos from a home shop hobbyist. The purpose of my channel is to share lessons learned, ideas, builds and experiences in a easy fun manner...hence part of the channel name SCREWBALL as I like to enjoy life and have fun!
My name is Chuck Bommarito, in my younger days I worked as a mechanic and then in the Public Works department as a maintenance worker/equipment operator. For the last 37 years I have worked as construction manager in the homebuilding/commercial construction. Over the years I have built a wide variety of product and with extreme site conditions...a true learning experience.
I have always had a passion for problem solving and in the recent past years I have picked up machining as a hobby and I have been trying to learn all of the facets along with improving my skills.
I hope you enjoy my videos and I am open to comment, questions, or suggestion....
simple build of various item of scrap I had, many ways/materials to build one, just make sure you make it balanced for ease of lifting and lowering....good luck happy bbq
I recently bought this machine in 10 minutes into cutting a 2 inch hole into 5/8 hot roll it quit and it won’t start up. I’m guessing it’s an internal fuse. Contacted support three weeks ago still no answers. What the hell am I supposed to do quit on me I put tap magic in my cooling dispenser and it doesn’t dispense, imagine being a viscosity problem
@@outsidescrewball OK glad he’s enjoying his I can’t use mine I’m pretty sure there’s a fuse internally also the connector they use for the drill chuck is very very out of ground causing the drill chuck to crazy wobble bad
Thanks for the review. Based on my experience with it, I think you're going to enjoy having that machine around. The small Allen wrench is to adjust the gib screws. The gibs will wear in though the first couple hundred holes as the drill goes through break in. No biggie, just adjust them and press on. If they are properly adjusted the head will stay up on its own. Once you adjust the gib screws you won't need the wood block. If you're patient with the machine and let the speed control loop work, it will tap at the speed setting of 1. Max torque on that sort of motor occurs at zero speed. Highly recommended that the machine is turned on and off using the green/red on/stop buttons. The reversing switch may hot have contacts rated for the starting surge current. I had to drill and tap the reservoir mounting screw holes 8-32 because there were no threads where the mounting screws were supposed to be. That was a little disconcerting, but after replacing the original screws with 8-32 by 3/4" screws with star washers it's worked just fine. The internal coolant feed combined with the low operating rpm capability of the model like you have allows the bits to run much cooler than expected. if you're drilling a lot of holes, like in the top of a welding fixture table (what I bought mine for) check the tightness of the Weldon set screws every ten or fifteen holes. They can vibrate loose. I bought that same unit on sale directly from Vevor for $157.00. I think it was the year old model on clearance. I wanted the variable speed reversible model which came with the same cutters you have. I decided I'd rather have the variable speed and buy cutters in needed sizes as the requirements materialized than a set of metric cutters I might never need.. The only visual difference is the height adjustment socket head cap screw on mine is black oxide finished. Mine came in a cardboard box that had sides and top about 3/4" thick. Same with the bottom plus the bottom had a thin piece of plywood under the drill. It arrived with the box intact and the drill in perfect condition. The chuck on mine, mounted on a taper shank, has a runout of ~0.001" on the od of the chuck just below the chuck key holes. The run out on a 3/8" piece of drill rod chucked in it was ~0.002". Mine runs better than expected. I was very pleased to discover there is some sort of closed loop speed control associated with the speed dial. I do most of my hole cutting with it set at a speed of two. Using Slugger coolant concentrate diluted 9:1 with water fed from the reservoir the bits run cooler than expected. The coolant feed to the inside of the cutter forces it to leave past the teeth. After seeing how well that works I will never run an annular cutter without the coolant feed connected. I like the annular cutters. In more than 70 years of metal working (I'm older than dirt) I've never had anything that cut holes as that were as close to the listed diameter and as round as the holes made by the annular cutters. I liked them so much I bought an R8/Weldon arbor with coolant attachment so I can use them in my mill. I just move the Vevor coolant reservoir to the mill to make use of the DRO on the mill to make a drill jig for drilling the top of my welding table. .IMO: drilling without feeding the coolant to the meter of the cutter is a mistake. It will significantly shorten the life of the cutters. Note that a small piece of thin wall hobby brass Turing will work as a coupler for the tubing Vevor supplies to go between the reservoir and the drill press. Home Depot had some 1.7" ID tubing that I could use to feed coolant to the arbor adaptor on the mill. This Vevor mag base drill is a game changer. So far, ~120 holes through 5/8" plate, it's performing beautifully.
When I set the machine the the foot pedal setting, the amperage is stuck at 140 if I try to move it down it goes back up to 140? watching your video the numbers were moving mine don't am I missing something?
WoW! That because your 1-2-3 block are the garbage model... sorrey! In real blocks, the holes that are not threaded are of the outer diameter of the bolt so it slides through. Watch this clip and the sun will light up. 😁 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e2BpFdXlXNI.htmlsi=DUedtkB6zE3RvK62
Chui I hope you heal fast. Stuff does happen. Then we learn from it and move forward. Look forward to seeing you on future videos when you stop by and visit OSB, outsidescrewball not oriented strand board. :)
Bill, thank you for your kind words for Chui, I miss him dearly as he passed away March 2022, he did recover from the accident with some limited issues with his hand, diabetes is what was the cause of his passing.
@@outsidescrewball That is like getting hit with a hammer hearing something like this. He shall be remembered, which is about what any of us wld want. Thanks for letting me know.
I have a friend who had a salesman’s sample safe. not sure of the brand. It sold for over $80,000 in auction and the buyer said he would’ve paid up to &150,000 Good days Kimber
$3,000 for a vet bill. We call that 1/2 a dog butt. My wife paid $6,000 to have the anal glands removed from her chihuahua. The bad news is, they grew back.
If I ever need some repairs done on one of my vehicles guess who I'm coming to see. I really like your approach to fixing this particular problem. I think the parts you made are a bit better than the ones you replaced. KOKO!
Thank you. I am cleaning and now going to put back together my late father-in-law’s Norton oil multi stone. Thank you so much your videos are so informative.
A great haul! I think it is a very good thing that when craftsmen pass away their tools find new homes with new craftsmen, rather than just being discarded.
Chuck, the adeptech vise is probably the best option for the puller legs. i recently tried a similar thing and the tooling just ripped the part out of the vise jaws, scrapped the end mill and boogered up the part. the other option is to mount it in a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe and turn it to thickness, although that will be an interrupted cut and pretty hard on machine and tooling. incidentally, the puller looks a lot like one Kukko makes. i wouldn't be surprised if that was patterned off of it. one thing i learned about tooling purchases is that when you think you won't need a specific cutter and you sell it off, the next week you need that exact cutter. i have so much stuff in my collection that i will most likely never use, but i'm hanging on to it for just that reason. this last year i picked up a large collection of cutters and end mills from an independent contractor who hurt his back and was forced into medical retirement. the sharpening service i use, gives me a package deal when i bring them large posts of cutters for sharpening. last year i did this with a bunch of drill bits and a set of stubby drill bits i made and it worked out pretty well. the price may have been a bit eyewatering, however when extrapolated out to an individual piece, the sharpening only amounted to a few cents per piece. so if you have a sharpening service you have a good working relationship with, that might be a good option for when buying used tooling. to put this a bit into perspective: adding all the end mills up and calculating the price for a package sharpening, i'm looking at 5 to 6 hundred euro for the sharpening and 250 for the tooling. if i had to buy this stuff new (all german manufacture) i'm looking at about 25000eur ... so quite a disparity