Hello I’ve got a similar issue, can I ask if you pull up on the shift shaft does the engage reverse or forward gear? Is it ok to gently pull on the shift shaft to engage the gears? I’ve just done my water pump on my 50hp mariner and I think when the bottom end has been re installed I think it’s in reverse. I can manually spin the prop clockwise but not anticlockwise am I right in thinking the prop should freely spin in both direction when in neutral
Yes if you're a neutral you should be able to freely spend the prop either direction if it always spends One Direction Anheuser resistance in the other direction you are in forward or reverse the video which way the resistance is
Leaving a gap won't explode the cylinder, that's a myth with no foundation, but velocities will be all over the place. Using paper cartridges (200 gr conicals) I can load and cap all 6 in less than a minute just using what's on the gun, just takes a bit or practice. Over compressing BP changes the grain sizes and will make velocities erratic. Round balls and conicals must be pure lead for best accuracy.... Hogdon 777 is the best substitute for BP. Swiss is the best comercial BP.. much cleaner, and more powerful than Goex.
Yes I've done the same but how many minutes does it take you to make six loans for your revolver by the time you add all of that in for making them add generally averages out about the same everyone has their preferences High I've been shooting muzzleloaders in Capitola for over 30 years sometimes I still love them using just to revolver what I'm heading I will sometimes carry paper cartridges or extra cylinders sometimes I just prefer using the speed loader apparatus other times I prefer using a single loader where you take the cylinder off of the pistol I have them all play it just depends on what mood I'm a generally determines what I do that day I still generally prefer shooting Jim Shockey gold for hunting American Pioneer for target shooting which American pioneer make Jim Shockey gold powder they are very clean burning but I will check out the powders you've listed above
Please help speed up the loading process when you load those extra cylinders apparently you don't do much black powder City will revolvers I do so as many other people there's nothing fast about loading muzzleloaders or cap and ball cylinders but this helps speed the process up makes it a little easier also make sure rounds a little more uniforms I want to hear press evenly And the cylinder I've had this for many years and I love it other people have bought it commented they like it as well everybody has their own you get out and do some s*** and you might figure something out if you don't own one then you shouldn't be commenting on it because you know nothing about it and probably have never used it
Instead of using the twist handle.. use a cordless drill to press them down. Then the handle for the last 5-10 percent to fully seat the bullets. Or determine the fully seated pressure and set the drill to stop at that pressure ..no handle needed
Google Mercury part number 29245 that will give you the washer you need Amazon has them for $8 you can also find them on eBay and boat.net another websites
An air gap will not cause an explosion!!! Think about it for a minute!!! There’s plenty of video on RU-vid of this stuff abd it’s a myth. Black powder doesn’t become explosive because of air
Thanks for this good quality video. Am I correct in the assertion that if I want to convert my 2005 Mercury Outboard Two Stroke 25 hp 20 Jet ((original from factory) that has the shift linkage rod on the outside of the cowl straight down to the jet pump bucket gate for (forward, neutral, and reverse)) to a lower unit that instead has a propeller, I will also have to find a tiller handle like the one in this video that has the forward, reverse, neutral shift linkage and throttle cables together built into the tiller handle? My tiller handle only has the kill switch button in it and the throttle feature. Other than the tiller handle, my powerhead seems to look exactly like yours in this video, but I need to clarify if my powerhead has any area on the right side of the engine block area to connection or install shifter cables with the assumed tiller handle I will have to find (I think it would be somewhere near where my throttle cables are installed but I don't know what I'm looking for exactly in that area of the engine). I cannot find any videos or pictures or diagrams for this Model 25 hp powerhead with a solid explanation a regarding my inquiry. Thanks in advance for your feedback.
You should not need to replace your tiller handle all the tiller handle is doing is Shifting you from forward to reverse the only wire going up in the tiller handle should be just to kill your ignition you can also do that with a safety switch the tiller handle whether you're dead or propeller driven should be the same there's a safety switch that keeps you from starting the motor unless you're a neutral that should be the same on any 2005 Mercury 2 stroke weather is jet driven or prop-driven I believe the shifter rod everything should be the same how far is a jet but I've never had a jet so I'm not sure
@@dmaxwell8174 Thanks very much for your feedback and input...just to be clear, my tiller handle does not have a forward, neutral, or reverse option on it. There is a separate forward, neutral, reverse knob on the outside right side of the engine cowl/cover that has a shift rod attached directly to a sort of control gate or bucket on the jet pump that basically re-angles the thrust of water coming out the back of the jet to control or redirect movement. But yeh, I'll keep researching and I hope everything else is the same to convert the lower unit easily.🙂
Great video! Awesome looking 1858 in stainless!! I got me an all steel press with a big lever that has what looks like a shifting knob on the end. It has a wide base with 4 mount holes for the very reason you mentioned. I got a couple of extra cylinders and bring them all out with me when I'm shooting my 1851 Colt and 1858 Remington (both replicas of course). Makes for a very fun day. Black powder cap and ball can be a whole lot of fun! Thanks for the video my friend!!
You're welcome I like shooting black powder one reason is the whole lot cheaper shooting black powder today than it is modern firearms because ammunition has gotten so damn expensive I make my own round balls at my own Chronicles muzzleloaders black powder rifles and all by Remington 1858 you can't beat a 200 Grand Chronicle in my 44 caliber revolvers I wish there was more store selling Jim Shockey gold 3F powder and 2f powder
Did anyone looking for Jim Shockey gold can contact American Pioneer counter are the American Pioneer powder is 3F is great for target shooting so is the 2f American Pioneers their brand play also make it for Jim Shockey gold that has a waterproof and so it lasts a lot longer when you're out of the field hunting I've had it last over a year of my muzzleloaders has six months or more about half a ball cast steel shot strong but the American Pioneer 3F is Ollie good for target shooting it is clean burning and doesn't foul out your Barrel like other powders the reason I say the 3F American pioneer it's not very good for hunting because I loaded my rifle in the morning and my 3:00 that evening it would not fire medicine cheaper powder and great for target shooting makes it a breeze cleaning your rifle up or pistols up after shooting
Where did you get the rubber cap seals for your caps and nipples for your pistol because I would really like to have some for my colt walker dragoon 44 cal. And I'm going to see if they have one of those quick loaders for a Colt walker dragoon because my cylinder is bigger than the standard black powder six shooters . My pistol weighs 4 pounds 9oz. Empty not loaded it's big and heavy but has plenty of power I use 40 gr. Of powder and a 200gr. Conical bullet but my pistol will take 50gr.of powder but I get the best accuracy at 40gr.and have to use a wad to take up space and keep my bullet close to the end of the cylinder if I use less powder and always have to lube in front of my bullets to help keep lead fouling down and change fire protection and I use crysco grease for lubeing in front of the bullets in my cylinder and haven't had any problems yet. Hey you were saying you have had your pistol loaded for like 6 months well I have did the same thing but left mine loaded way longer and didn't have any problems at all. All my caps fired and powder was still good and hot. I guess I keep it in a good place and moisture didn't mess with the powder or caps. Enjoyed your video and I never new they made a loader like you have and I'm interested in one of those and the rubber cap seals for the nipples please let me know where you got those from .
I bought them a two right arms and Springtown Texas that's a gun store you can also order them off the internet if you do a Google search I also make my own with weed eater gas line you can get it in clear or yellow or, orange color gas lines for weed eaters work real well you can get that at the hardware store some of the hardware stores sell it by the Foot others you bought animal packages always bought by the foot off of a big role take a pair of scissors and just cut off the links you need and you just sat there and when you got some time on your hands and just make you a few thousand of them or a few hundred whatever you have time for just be sure not to cut them too long I kept up just long enough to slide all the way down to the bottom of the nipple and then cover half of my percussion cap that helps keep the moisture and waterproof them to an extent they also help keep your gun your revolver from fouling when the cap explodes it keeps them together so they don't Jam your gun out I also use them on my side lock I got several Hawken style rifles I use them on including a double girl
Online they're called nipple protection caps covers muzzleloader.com I saw on their website just now I believe I've seen them at Midway USA and maybe Cabela's
There's no such thing as speed loading a black powder revolver. How much time did his device really save? Your best bet is to obtain extra cylinders and pre load them or make paper cartridges.
If you don't own one don't knock it I've been loading black powder for 40 years any speed loader for a revolver whether it be a modern revolver or an antique revolver is going to take time but it is still faster than load them one-by-one whether you load with paper cartridges or have extra cylinder you still have to load those cylinders and you either going to load them one by one are you can do like my loader and load all 6 at one time I've shot paper cartridges and I have loaded them with my device that I bought off Amazon and it just makes it easier and more pleasant for me what I'm doing a lot of target shooting if I'm actually going to go out hunting I will carry extra cylinders but I would love them cylinders 99 for the time with my device that I happen to like very well and that's all I'm implying is clear you probably don't have very many black powders or know very much about it I have several dozen different type of muzzleloaders cap-and-ball inline I have three CVA electroswitch I happen to like very much other people didn't like them but that's the only got I would use when I go hunting unless I want to use one of my antique sidelocks that is cap and ball and I use bullets that I make conicals but I appreciate your opinion but that's all it is your opinion that you know nothing about because you've never tried this device or probably any other device if you've ever even loaded a Muzzleloader or a cap and ball and if you have you probably single loaded them so anyone out there in the world don't want to try while they speedloaders telling you straight up I like it I'm glad I bought it what I make a few improvements probably so I would probably make the handle a little thicker because I have bent the handles you can see in the video few times but it works for what I need what I wanted I'm happy with it if you're not then that's for you to decide but don't be a hater on RU-vid when you've never had one or tried one and if you have make a video improve-it don't just say it show the world that you know what you're talkin about as I have done with my video this is not my product I'm not trying to sell it I will tell you I like it though I'm glad I bought it and I would buy it again for any of you RU-vidrs out there or muzzleloader and cap-and-ball people out there that might want to give it a try I also like Jim Shockey gold black powder for my cap and ball and my Muzzleloader the only powder I will shoot American pioneer some people may not like it but I do the best powder I've use and I've used them all so have a good night and tomorrow I'll get out there and buy you some Muzzleloader stuff and maybe you will have a different view on it
@@dmaxwell8174sorry there bud, but i don't think I'd trust the opinion of anyone who cant even use punctuation in between sentences. You wrote an entire paragraph in a single run on sentence without even so much as a comma in between. Call me a grammar Nazi all you wish, but proper grammar and sentence structure and such goes a long way to being taken seriously by anyone. I hate to be "that guy", but do yourself a favor and learn how to use periods and commas. It'll add more credibility to your opinion if you actually do so, nobody is gonna take you seriously as long as you continue to type like a second grader.
Did you watch all three of my videos on the hot water heater this part 1 part 2 and part 3 what s why are you referring to there's a brown wire that controls the igniter and gas valve the narrator is a 4-wire not a 3-wire like the old hot water heater the white wire on the new heater which is a 4-wire setup the white wires 12 volts electrons of control relay for the hot water heating element so I can turn it off and turn on the propane switch at the Saint and run just propane for example like if I wanted to go camping are lost electricity I can feel he hot water Peterson the propane side of the heater what size switches at the sink in the kitchen I can turn the 12-volt switch back on and run the heating element and a propane at the same time and get about 18 gallons a minute so the manual says I generally leave the propane switch off and just run the electric heating element dearly hooked up in an RV park electricity and I have more than enough hot water to take the pretty long shower if this helps you let me know please subscribe do you have anymore questions please give me a shout stay safe and have a great day
@@dmaxwell8174 hi. I have a g6a 6e in a 1992 coachmen. I tried to locate your part 1 and 2 but no luck. My igniter failed. One that I got to replace it has 2 red wires instead of one. One has the plug that goes in control box. There is an additional electrode that goes to the mystery wire. I checked and the igniter is working but this extra wire is a mystery. This water heater is propane only. Thanks.
Did you click on my profile and looked through my videos you should be able to find it by clicking on my profile where you subscribe should pull up all my videos if not let me know try looking up DMaxwell 817
There's different setups out there on RV hot water heaters does yours have a pilot light that stays on if so the other could be a sensor that heats up from a pilot light then it opens up your gas valve for your main burner iFit doesn't have a pilot light stays on and it matter wire for light the pilot the pilot heats up that sensor that opens up the gas to your burner
I know this video was made 5 years ago and I hope you still get alerts. You are right about there not being any videos about the wiring. I'm taking a gas only Atwood and putting in a gas/electric one. You did a pretty good job explaining the wiring but my one big question is the 12 volt switched wire going to the white wire that goes to the control board powers the electric element. How is the 110 volt element activated. Is there a wire going to the 110 volt box in the rear from the control board. Thank you for making this video. 13,000 + views mean there are a lot of people looking for help. I appreciate all your time and efforts.
It is activated by the on and off switch which is 12 volt so basically the control board when you activate the on and off switch that activates the control board and rely on the back of the heater I did not look but I said there's a jumper wire coming from the circuit board under the installation that came Factory on the hot water heater to the relay when I kill the on and off switch want meaning when I turn it to off that kills the 12-volt to the control board for the electric side that's the 120 side it still has 120 coming from the breaker to the heater but the control board is not calling for electricity but I can still turn on my propane switch and it will light up and Heat just to confirm 5 minutes ago I went and turn my hot water on at the kitchen sink I turned the propane switch on and let the water run until I heard the propane burner come on what's the propane burner came on and started heating to keep up with the hot water used burners running good so I turned the 12-volt switch off that I talk about in the video would stop the heating element from heating the heater but the propane still continue to heat because of propane switch was still on and what heat the water back up until the thermostat for the propane side cuts it off but again that white 12 volt wire that I usually jumper wire from a melihat light switch controls the circuit board so that the 120-volt will work when the switch is turned on and again I can run both at the same time should I increase the volume of hot water on the 6 gallon hot water heater. I hope this helps you if so please subscribe and let me know if it work for you glad I could be of help to any and everyone out there that needs it because there's not a lot of videos describing how to wire up these did heaters it had me pulling my hair out for probably more than a week before I got it figured out. Stay safe out there and I hope you have a great week
I didn't know about these loaders until today. After watching your video I ordered one for my .44 Uberti 1858 Sheriff model. I'm not bothered about the speed loading aspect, what interests me most is how it seats all 6 bullets (I use conical) to the same depth for consistent powder compression for better accuracy. The 5.5 inch barrel on the Sheriff mode with its shorter loading lever gets painful after loading a few cylinders so I use a finger cut off an old leather archery glove to protect against the sharp lever securing catch which has drawn blood in the past.
@@loboheeler Thanks, I've seen those used on short barrel revolvers. I bought the 6 shot loader and like it. Not only does it seat all 6 shots to exactly the same depth and powder compression, it also saves wear on the revolver's rammer, and in my case having to keep tightening the pivot screw every 3rd cylinder. Another benefit is it negates wearing the finish from the heel of the grip when reloading on the bench, even when rested on a piece of carpet.
Yeah that's one of the main things I like about it is it seats all six balls at the same depth I hope they're still available on Amazon or I bought mine I've had mine for five years now I love it it just makes when I refer to it as a speed loader what I mean is it just makes it easier and faster for me to just go to unload all my cylinders with powder then a dry lubricated wide and then my conical just makes the steps a little easier. I also have a outside loader where you take the cylinder out and it's a platform with a lever on it to load your cylinders outside the guide I also use that from time to time that might help with your Sheriff model as well I use the one I just described and the six-letter one I have a Ramekin with a 3 inch barrel I forget what they call that one but it does not have a loading rod so you have to remove the cylinder to load it
Jim Shockey gold is made by American pioneer anyone looking to purchase Jim Shockey gold can contact American Pioneer powder manufacturer for the closest retailer to your area
Will this fit in hole that was for Suburban heater ? I want just 120v heating, no gas. So can I just supplyb12v via old gas switch to new heater solenoid hot+ ? I don't need orange wire connected as no gas. BTW, Suburban also removed their rear mounted 120v ON switch.
I'm not sure what your setup is but if you're not using gas you should be able to eliminate that wire for that solenoid valve since there's no gas but I would do some more research to follow you just to make sure
I have a 2002 25hp 2stroke, I bought the boat back in March and it's been restored, today I got to the point where she was ready to be started again. She fired right up but I could not get it I to reverse, it like you said, binds up. I think the previous owner missed this step. My question is, where did you find the washer? Was is gone? Did you just buy a new one? I forced it too much and broke the darn linkage socket at the other end. I'm so pissed off. Any idea where I can get the plastic end piece ? Thanks for the great video.
I found the washer on eBay also found them on Amazon and you can also get them directly from Mercury or any Mercury dealer if you take the lower unit apart you can get it back together and get it to reverse on the water hose but when you put it in the lake it won't reverse without that washer that washer falls off every time you pull the lower unit the plastic linkage you'll have to try to find it on eBay Amazon or directly from a authorized Mercury dealer the reason I put this video out there is I found most local mechanics did not even know about the washer when I lost the washer on my motor changing the water impeller it took me 3 months going from mechanic to mechanic and getting nowhere they would charge me $150 to $350 and work on it never fix the issue so I had to get with Mercury and one of their service texts from Mercury the manufacturer showed me on a diagram of the washer I needed good luck
Thank you I received my new water heater yesterday and been looking at the instructions and the wiring is very uninformative I have the same problem three wire to a new four wire could not find anything to help me explain just running a hot wire to that switch your video is very helpful thank you very much
Do you own one I do and I happen to really like mine have not had any problems with it and I've used it hundreds of times also have a regular loader that's got a handle and I like this one better it's faster when I'm at Target shooting and in my opinion it's not cheap junk I've had it at least 7 years and have not had any problems thank you for your opinion
Thank you for showing your perspective on loading. Greatly appreciated. We love this stuff. I prefer a loading station and paper cartridges. Simplicity and ease. All the more enjoyable. Fortunate enough to have a range in my backyard. Blast several cylinders worth of .44 rounds. Then cold beer and clean the BP revolver.
Yeah the cleaning is always fun but it is still worth it I enjoy going out and emptying a few cylinders every now and then try to Jim Shockey gold 3F on your cap and ball it lasts a really long time in your revolver and it's not near as dirty burning Pyrodex powder it does not fail your revolver as much as the other powders do produces a lot less smoke I also prefer the Jim Shockey go when I'm hunting with my cap and ball revolver which also make my own 200 grain conical but she's really well in my Remington 1858 revolver also shoot the Jim Shockey gold FF powder in my sidelock and my CVA Electra 50 caliber rifles also have a CVA Kodiak and I double barrel CVA that I shoot from time to time but yes it is fun and relaxing the setback I'm pop off a few rounds or make a few bullets the multi-use is a Lee.450 200 grain conical that I bought from Cabela's I generally shoot about 30 grains in my black powder revolvers
Need to roll up a ton of paper cartridges. I have 2lbs of synthetic gun powder. Have case hardened Uberti 1858 Remington 44 cal. 5.5" barrel. @@dmaxwell8174
Oh be nice. I will say that it’s not much of a speed loader. I think I can load the old fashion way on the gun with the loading lever faster than that.
ThePCOMAN...Negative Nelly. Shows how mentally weak you are to judge negatively and write a negative comment. Kharma will get you 3X times, if not more. Live Free & No Attitude.
I can see how the first ONE might be faster.. but how is it any diff from loading all 6 chambers with powder a wad (i dont use wads) and then dropping 1 or 2 balls on.. ramming and spinning the cylinder and ramming again. Its essentually the same way youre doing it. But you have an extra two processes of having to remove the cylinder and then lutting it back on. Now the 2nd one. Doing all 6 chambers at once.. i could see that lossibly being much faster. But it might be a pain in the ass to ram all 6 balls without that being clamped to a bench... that would be good at home when youre reloading 8 cylinders worth i have 6 revolvers i shoot sometimes at the range.. lol.. but when at the range. Is it a pain to use that tool without it clamped down ? I think id just stick with manually reloading. Its not primers btw. They are percussion caps. Totally different animal. I also am pretty sure round balls dont over penetrate like conicals do. And they actually can cause more damage to someone if you shoot them. But im thinking self defense. I would imagine for hunting you want the extra penetration on very large game. But for humans and self defense or closer range hunting . You want the ball to stop in them releasing all the energy in the body not to go through them. For 6 shots only. Id be less worried about fouling and more worried about power. The wad takes up too much room for a conical. 5-10 grains of power at least. Id focus on cramming as much powder as you can with the heavier conical.. in a remington 1858 thats about 45 grains with a round ball and 40 or 37 for conical. 30 grains is pretty puny for hunting since you mentioned you hunt. Especially for a 220 grain bullet. Id recomend lubing the bullet where its suppose to be lubed on the ribs with a bullet wax so it doesnt get the powder wet. Lubed wads also get powder wet... Ditch the wads for more powder. Again thats why the bullets have those grooves for your lubrication But this is just my opinion of course. Everyone is different you do you. Also 454 or 457 balls have greater accuracy over 451. Im surpised you get a lead ring on 451 but i guess your cylinder is undersized. I noticed though you didnt have 6 rings just a few.. i think 451 is too small for you. For me they can almost be pressed in by thumb in the cylinder on all 6 of my black powder revolvers. You should also use a powder measure when loading at home. Grab your measure and do this for me. Pour your 30 grain flask into the measure. Then tap the measure a bunch of times at the top and middle to settle the powder. Youll notice it will drop down 5 grains. Those flasks are not accurate. So your 30 grain loads are actually 25. Trust me, try it out and youll see what im talking about.
My pre-lubricated wads are dry lubricants I probably don't need them with my 200 Grand conicals the conicals are deep enough that I don't think I would get a chain reaction I used 30 grains Jim Shockey gold 3F powder I like the fiber wide to help keep moisture out because I leave my loaded sometimes between 6 and 12 months I've had no problems having them shoot and hitting very hard after 6 and 8 months also use a little rubber sleeve on the number 10 percussion cap to help seal it to the cylinder but even without the sleeve I've been able to shoot six and eight months later no problem and still kills a deer hog I'm shooting I prefer the Jim Shockey gold because if I use Pyrodex black powder 3 months later it barely shoots and even when it's fresh it really dirty is a gun where I can get more shots for the Jim Shockey gold then I can with Pyrodex and with a 200 grain conical bullet and Jim Shockey gold 3F which is hotter than power decks it provides a really hard hitting and a pretty good kick in your hand and better accuracy then I get with round balls I've shot deer and Hogs what about the round ball and the 200 Grand Chronicle the 200 grain conical knocked a lot bigger hole to the deer and through the Hogs I will try in the future to make a video shooting a hog with a 200 grain conical and another hog with the 147 grain round ball there's a difference. And loading all six cylinders at the same time with my speed loader works very well I have a single loader and I have also loaded them in the pistol and the speed loader was a lot quicker and a lot easier when I'm not making a video Jiffy Lube your bullets and actually presses that man very easily and I have not found a need to mount it to a bench I use it at the gun range what I'm target shooting what I'm heading I carry to preloaded cylinders one in the gun and wanting a Leather Pouch on my belt if I can't get the job done with 12 bullets in the field of all I'm hunting then I have no business out there hunting and I've never had to use a second or third shot the first one has always got the job done my personal experience with cap and ball and and muzzle loaders do I have around 22 years experience with them although there are still things that I learn everyday and I appreciate the info my flask has a 30 grain Style on the end I have different grain spouts but I chose a 30 grain and I've actually checked it with my measurer the way I turn it upside down and hold my finger gives me precisely 30 grains each time I load a cylinder and I've checked it many times with my measure I even have multiple brass and plastic measures and I've checked it with all of them I was not aware I could shoot 45 grains a regular powder though I would not do that Jim Shockey gold because it does shoot with a little higher pressure I especially would not shoot 45 with a 200 grain conical imagine that would kick really hard they 30 grain gives it a pretty good kick although I have been thinking about going to paper cartridges I've seen how to make those on RU-vid and I bought me some Roll paper so I can make my own cartridges and give that a try and I appreciate all the info from everyone out there let's keep this black powder shooting alive the way it's been on finding regular ammo and what regular ammo have been costing I prefer to shoot the black powder myself so whole lot cheaper I even bought a Tumblr so I can start making my own black powder if times get hard and it's been getting harder and harder to find Jim Shockey gold
I know youv'e heard it already, but I will name my first born after you. I would have bben screwed without your help. thanks for taking the time to make such a comprehensive, in depth how to video. Thank you.
I am very glad I could help you and your repair work I went through the same problem that's why I put the video out I spent days and weeks trying to figure out how to wire my not with no no help no one to turn to and no videos on RU-vid for comparison so when I figured out how to do mine I figured I would put a video out to help other people in the same boat please subscribe and if I can help in the future let me know again thank you for your kind and thoughtful comments.
Send me a photo of your lower unit without the prop include the inside of the prop shaft area and I will get back with you send it to dmaxwell817@hotmail.com hotmail.com
Yep the 'reverse lock rod' needs to rest on top of the washer. So many lose the washer that falls off the 'shift shaft' when they remove the foot to replace water pump. I bought an 1989 25hp with same issue. I dropped a washer on top of shift shaft underneath the shift shaft retainer pin. Reset the reverse lock rod onto of washer and was good to go. Didn't even have to remove foot. For those who don't know. Small outboards are designed to only lock into position when in reverse. The motor should disengage lock when shifting into neutral and forward incase your engine strikes an object while cruising and not ripping the transom off the boat. Great Upload Sir! 👍
You did watch part 1 or part three of my video that's why that said part 2 so watch part 1 part 2 what you want and part 3 where you did not watch which I go into detail on the washer and why the washer needs to be there and how to replace it
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EtAJIs5RYFY.html 8:23 and 14:07 discuss this in more detail. Thank you dmaxwell 817, this was the root of my problem...the reverse lock was not working and it was very difficult to tilt the motor up to tilt lock.
Thank you so much. Still need to know about the blue wire it goes to the light on the switch right. i have the new double switch with the light in the middle it has a positve and a negative on the 2 terminals which side do you put the blue wire on and what do you hook to the other side ? Thanks if you can held me. i dont know if the blue wire is basically a hot or a ground.
The blue wire go see your lockout on the hot water heater as I explained in part one and part two of my video watch part one part two and part three and you understand the whole video the white wire is of one you have to run to the new switch or so I had to on my hot water heater you should be able to follow my instructions if you have the same hot water heater same model numbers unless I change something up since I posted this video
Thanks for the info. I believe this is what I need to do to fix the same issue with my Merc 25. Do I have to remove the lower unit to put the washer on the shaft? Or can I drop the washer onto the shaft after I remove the starter, and assembly pin in the shifter? After I pull that pin the top of the shaft is exposed. Thanks!
It is easier to remove the lower unit to replace the washer if it's not going in reverse it is missing the washer if you have a starter you will have to remove the starter and lay it over to the side
You had already removed the small black cover in the beginning, it was laying in the boat, how did you remove it? I have two small bolts there that are giving me a challenge, in the front, do I need to remove them? How did you remove yours? Not much room to remove them.
Yeah they generally get lost or misplaced money for the lower unit car servicing start a daily water pump you can pick up Dylan's if you ever lose it on eBay
