@@JPN76 Ok......I got good spark with the first cap on.......Using a screw driver in the hole, but when i put the outer cap on w the 4 plug wires i dont have any spark at all??
Most complete videos I've seen. Extremely well explained & well filmed, to where a DIY person can teardown & rebuild with confidence! Thanks for sharing your knowledge & expertise!
@davidhall9804 Thanks. Honestly when i started this project i did not plan on filming it. I was reseaching on here and could not find enough detail. Most vids wete filmed far away and a lot edited out. I figured i could do better. Sure did make it take longer.
Man what an amazing video! Thanks for sharing. Those whizzers were well built. similar to my modern motorized bike build but so much nostalgia with these old school builds especially how you raised it from the dead. Nice work. I always make music for my videos but starting to think I don't need it after watching this. Wish the whizzer kit came back into production
I really dont want to get into that. I lucked out here and it was a part i knew how to fix. If you find someone to do it i have most the parts from this one on ebay. What is yours doing?
Compliments on the production quality. Great lighting and focus. I inherited a1948 Allis Chalmers C that had been 'converted' to a coil ignition by modifying the mag. Difficult to start, kicked back hand cranking. Put a quality rebuilt Fairbanks Morse mag on it and discovered I cannot tilt the mag over far enough to time it properly. The conclusion can only be the mag drive gear teeth are not aligned properly on the machined marks under the front engine cover! I better not find paperwork from the engine rebuilder. Your video clinches it. It is not possible to mount the flywheel incorrectly to change the location of the timing marks, Allis Chalmers made sure of that.
Do you have the bearing numbers for the 4 final drive bearings and also the seal number for the differential/transmission where the axle shaft goes into the differential? Great video!
Very good and helpful video, thanks for taking the time to post it. With help from yours and Shop Dog Sam's videos I've been able to rebuild a totally trashed Wico EK magneto. I don't think I could have done it without the videos.
I bought some brake pedals and I see it would be pretty easy to make them work looking at what you have. Looks nice. I have a few attachments and would like to loose the saw, its like a 48" blade, let me know if your interested, have some others but only maybe on those.
Really appreciate you taking the time to document your work and upload to RU-vid. Don't have a lot of experience navigating the insides of an engine, so this really helps. Have no intentions of getting into it as deeply as you have, but will be able to do a few simple repairs with confidence.
I appreciate the feedback. I wasnt going to do this originally but last minute, I decided to once i realized i could not find much info on here myself. They were not detailed enough. Really glad i could help
Thanks. I use 11.5 wide tires. I believe the rims were 10 inches but not sure, never measured them but they are what came on this and my parts tractor. I will measure them next time im at the shop. I liked the look or the wider 11.5 tires better than the factory ones. Also mounted the rims so they were offset inward to not have a large gap in between tire and fender. Also takes up less room in the shed
Navy uses 150 psi on 1 1)2 hose and 200 on a 2 1/2 hose , navy uses 2 1)2 hoses to fight flight deck fire and they gave us training on the 2 1/2 hose one man on the nozzle yea you can walk on the tips of your toes while laying down on the nozzle
What a great little engine. Seen some boat engines ii n this configuration.. that timing adjustable lever could be us d to changing the direction of rotation for propeller- from.my understand
I spent 12 years working in an AC dealership shop in the 50's and 60's. This brought back memories, Tow thing I would have done differently would have lubricated the head bolts top and bottom in order to get a more even torque. The other thing I found was the oil filter base would almost always be warped because of the cork gasket and needed a file run over it. If you haven't yet we always rebuilt our own clutches, about all that was ever needed was surfacing the clutch plate in a lathe. There is always a way to compress the springs.
I agree with both! Not sure why i didn't lube the head bolts. Filing the oil filter base makes total sense. If i ever remove it this will happen. I was going to rebuild the clutch but i could not locate replacment fingers. All 6 i had were worn down by the throughout bearing.
Do you have a clutch and brake repair shop in your area? they may have a rebuilders source. A dealer may still be able to get something. I don't remember the clutch manufacture you might try contacting Rockwell I think they made a lot of AC clutches.
Thanks for posting this. I put off installing the mag for 2 years after getting frustrated.. I came across your video and got to it. Perfect instructions. She's running nicely now. My 1942 is back in action.
@@JPN76 The source of confusion was the CEN and the FIRE marking. I think I was trying to time it to the wrong mark.. Your video was exactly what I needed.
Unlike modern 💩 crap 💩 Kia/Hyundai 💩, this old engine is still GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOT DEAD after a few short years!!!!! As most above models are RAPIDLY DYING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Engines in vehicles manufactured before the 1980s typically lasted around 100,000 to 150,000 miles. Modern engines can last well beyond 200,000 miles, with some reaching 300,000 miles or more.
This engine came factory with a distributor. But not this one. The original was pot metal and usually, they dont survive. This one is a 1926 chevy distributor. But mags were more common i believe
Sorry, I didn’t finish below comment and question.. Assembling my 1949 b engine, and main bearing caps are confusing me. There are no factory marks on caps, except for what looks to be grind marks on one side of each cap which on rear ( flywheel side) and middle bearing Look face camshaft. Front cap grind mark facing camshaft, however, then orients bearing center grov and notch also towards cam, but in the opposite direction, or 180 degree different from rear and middle caps which seems to not make sense. Rear and middle placement makes further sense as cap offset both face front of engine as seen on other videos, and assuming those are correct, but fron bearing has no offset. Long way of asking, how should main caps be applied?
Well on mine the front and middle were one way and the rear was the other based on part number cast into the cap. The A in the part number faced the cam on the front and middle but faced the other way on the rear.
