This is exactly what my truck is doing . Ive replaced the CPS with 3 different OEM sensors and still it keeps doing it ! Its enough to really discourage a fellow !
That's the right reaction! She got it to flop over. Now it's just repeat over and over. Dan's a truly nice guy. Great to see him helping a beginner here.
Thank you!!! I see a lot of replacement videos but none that actually show me what it does before it shits. This is what my truck does and my new sensor gets here today
If you wanna take the electrical contractors off push them on whilst holding, then press the release, then pull. If you pull first and press the release it will not disengage.
Try squirting some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil on the bolts. And, try a couple of different 10mm wrenches: a shorter one, a longer one, etc. Also, a ratchet with a "wobble" extension might let you get a firm seating on the bolt. Lastly, an adjustable mirror can make a big difference in being able to see the bolt head. Hang in there, be patient and good luck!
If they're sick or rusted on, a trick for taking off sick farmers is to tighten first, then reverse. If you reverse a stick one, you'll bust the head off. Usually if you'll tighten just a hair, it'll pop from its position, freeing it up and then allowing you to remove.
Hola que tal! por las dudas tendras fotos de la placa? tengo el mismo y revento algo en la coneccion del flotador, pero no tengo una foto como para saber el componente
I have a 2005 Volkswagen Jetta I tried pumping it with air in the actuator but not holding pressure mine is in the same location I’m just Wondering where are you bought the actuator if you can tell me the name of the company the only thing I’m worried about is that rod getting to it when I seen you doing it it seemed impossible was it a nightmare thank you
I did the Ford CPS recall and got a check engine light, by the time I hit the pavement, from the dealership. I should've demanded my old CPS back. Since then, I've tried them all and none of them are as good as the old black CPS units. Apparently, California manual trucks are the worst ones for throwing codes and mine is very fussy. The best replacement I've tested is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BL1JsYIMCZU.html
Actually, I think you're looking at the far right of the power curve. This pump only requires about 500 watts to pump to 625 feet, at about 2 gallons per minute. www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/6_SQF-3_Curve_Data.pdf
It's been working very well (no pun intended), for the last three years. Fingers crossed that it'll last at least a few more. These pumps aren't cheap.
I sold it several thousand miles after replacing the injectors (which solved the problem), but it ran great thereafter, and for the new owner, who's an acquaintance.
@@rheasley thanks for the reply, I needed it! Mine idles odd when charging battery and sometimes it's very bad when I haven't started it in a couple weeks
@@steveng93 The rough idle was definitely more common after it'd gone a spell without running. Hope it's something as simple for you, as it was for me - not a huge expense or hassle.
I just used a short wrench. It's very possible, dare I say "easy", to get it off from the bottom. If you have a way to lift the vehicle, I think it's a better way - nothing to remove, to get to the part.
No. The wind turbine turned out to be worthless; it was rated at 1500W or something similar and the best it would do for me was under a hundred; Craigslist gamble fail. Ultimately, I decided to abandon the idea of wind, for my location. It isn't consistent enough to offset the negative impact on charging batteries. Here's what I mean: lead acid batteries (and most others) have a finite number of charge cycles. When the wind blows, then dies down, then blows again... that's a charge cycle. Given that the batteries are the most expensive component of an off grid system, it seemed penny-wise and pound-foolish to continue using intermittent wind to charge them. Solar has gotten so cheap, too, that for me, it's a no-brainer and I really like not having to deal with another mechanical device. If I lived elsewhere, I might feel differently, but in sunny southern-ish California, solar is awesome.
Sorry...but the drawing and the measurements in the installation instructions are correct and accurate as they only represent the tubs mechanical drawing. In other words... the 7 3/4" measurement for the drain opening in the tub only is only indicating the center line of the "tubs" drain opening to the edge of the tub, it is NOT an instruction or measurement for the actual location of your homes floor drain or instructions on how to assemble the overflow and drain assembly. If you stop and think about it, when setting an alcove tub, there is no way for the folks at American Standard (or any tub maker) to know how far out from the wall the original plumber may have placed the drain in the floor when the house was built, or if your tub will be accessible from from underneath, or if the existing drain line is beneath a concrete slab, and even more critical... they have no way of knowing the orientation of the p-trap below the tub based on things like existing plumbing lines etc. Granted, most typical tub drain kits have a horizontal run from the tub drain to the vertical pipe coming down from the overflow like the one you assembled, but... in many cases, when retrofitting a bathroom with a new tub it is not unusual to have to move the floor drain / p-trap location especially if the new tub is longer, shorter, wider or narrower than the one being replaced. As a result, the engineers at American Standard cannot provide the measurement you seek as they have no way of knowing the potential offset and correlation between the drain opening in the tub itself and the drain opening in your floor. They best they can do is indicate how far the tub drain opening is from the wall. The rest of the drain measurements you have to calculate based on the drain opening in your floor in relation to the wall.
My guess would be that one if the spark plugs are gone... but if it's specifically happening when charging, the stator could be singed. See what DCT codes it makes and replace the transaxle oil?
Thank you for the feedback! We got a cylinder #2 misfire code, took out that injector, put in #4 and now it's throwing a code there, so the next step is replacing the injectors. We'll do the coil packs and plugs at the same time and see what happens. I saw this description, "When Prius misfire the planetary gearset in the transmission slaps around, which can sound like a rod knock. This car had a clogged injector at cylinder #1, and that is all." with this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Br_H_M25_m8.html and it gave me hope that this Gen 2 isn't dead. I think replacing the transaxle oil is a good idea, nonetheless.
@@spiffdandy77 Yes, barely. The warranty was 2 years and it lasted about that long. The replacement is doing the same thing as this one was, and the replacement has lasted about 2.5 years. I'm going to look for another solution. Granted, this pump runs for 6+ hours per day and at very high pressures (for about 200 days per year), but I think a better method might be to use a cheaper submersible, that pumps into a tank at a lower elevation, and a surface pump that pushes the water further up. The plunger-type surface pumps, like the SunPump products, have much greater life expectancy and are obviously easier to access, when they need maintenance. I wouldn't mind swapping a cheap pump every few years, but this Grundfos SQ series is expensive.
Hi there--Did it turn out that the pump was the issue? Trying to troubleshoot our own set-up right now. Let me know if you get a chance, I'd really appreciate it.
Did you resolve the temperature gauge over heating problem? I have similar problem on my E300d Special Edition, Temp gauge rising above 80c intermittently, and sometimes jumping and falling abruptly. I replaced my wiring years ago, so rule that out. With coolant reservoir cap removed, I can squeeze the lower Radiator hose and force coolant up through the Radiator into the coolant reservoir. Assume radiator is not plugged. I don't think coolant is getting pumped through the thermostat from water pump. I replaced the thermostat with no improvement. Do water pump impellers ever fail I have no leaks? Could my engine block plugged? I'm working outside in the cold and rather think this out. any ideas? I have no leaks, no loss of coolant or any fluids. I feel like ordering a water pump but how can I test mine first?sensitivity:Temp gauge settles down on the hi-way, a hair above 80C, Setting heater to High reduces gauge temp... thoughts are the Aux heater coolant pump cools the engine through the heater core path..1995 E300d, 175,000miles Past repairs, 5 glow plugs, convenience control module diodes, belts, steering damper and motor mounts.
If the wiring harness hasn't been replaced I would look into that. In their infamous wisdom (and a German mandate) they used "environmentaly friendly" wiring which comes apart over time causing shorting issues. My temp goes up and down very smoothly just like yours used to.
