I loved this controller, but I have had a whole bunch of problems with it. I share some of the problems in my other videos. Will only turn on sporadically, now the display isn’t working. This thing has great features, unfortunately, I don’t feel very confident about the build quality of components
I have a similar problem except my right screen gives an error message. This happened more than 3 years ago and I just deal with it… 😠 but I ain’t happy about it.
Hi ppl.. I have the firmware and the button presses for the original Ns7 (V1) .sys midi firmware update straight from Numark let me know if someone wants to host. 😊
i installed the x1 pro gen 4 about a month ago and i have the same problem, i was cruising at about 30kmh, motor was at 6000 rpm(wich is at 60%), and it was running at about 70c and got an error code saying that the motor was overheating wich is clearly false since this motor is designed to handle 120c constant heat. Now that the motor cool down, ( a day later) the motor temp sensor is staying at 0c and i cant ride at all. Have you find how to fix ur problem, if yes how plsss <3
Sweet! I just did this last night on my NS7ii, but instead of Deoxit, I used Dupont Chain saver. I made sure i took the fader out and opened it to clean out all the gunk.
Here's Numark's reply for why the Dashboard was messing up in the video. pretty poor answer in my opinion: "The Numark Dashboard is not compatible with Serato DJ Pro on macOS Monterey. Please see below: macOS 12 Monterey - Official Serato Accessory (OSA) compatibility for Serato DJ Pro According to Serato, the last supported OS was Catalina. I hope this helps to clear up your inquiry. "
My NS7III sometimes has: LOOPER ISSUE - cant re-set START/END points properly SHIFT BUTTONS - Act like fast forward sometimes You had these too? Nothing REMAPPED, 3.1.1
@@hiphopsuperman Just last night after reinstalling the video and dashboard drivers, the SERATO computer UI would FREEZE whenever i tried to reorganize all audio by BPM, but the dashboard would still work...choppier than normal. But after a restart, and reinstall of drivers with serato CLOSED, it seems to be working normally again so far.
@@hiphopsuperman i FOUND what seems to be a fix: Go to MIDI tab and "[_] Allow Midi remapping" checked, click "Restore default" at the bottom, then UNchecked and click "restore default" again.
@hiphopsuperman dashboard itself. I'm on Windows 11 though. I just got it all from numark. com. I'm mixing right now! Would you happen to know how to recover songs I deleted from serato using Ctrl + Delete NOT Ctrl + Shift + Delete? (serato can't see the songs I deleted, but computer can...so not the in the trash)
Reply from Serato: “I've gone ahead and logged this internally with our development team. Unfortunately, there is not much more troubleshooting we can do here as we will have to wait to hear back from our development team. In the meantime, I would suggest sticking to Serato DJ Pro 3.0.12 as it seems this issue does not occur on this version of the software.”
I absolutely hate these types of issues with the constant upgrading of software. Always new gremlins surfacing and also slowdowns. I do wish more time was spent on optimizing speed and stability vs constantly adding new "features" to keep the subscriptions going.
I know! The controller has its own firmware, the dashboard has its own firmware, the computer has an operating system, Serato is constantly updated…. There are so many things that can go wrong…. Sometimes feel like going all analogue! I’ve shared with Serato, hopefully they figure it out…
Unfortunately, not. None of these fixes worked for me. So I just leave my unit turned on all the time if ever, I need to shut it down, I have to warm it up first with a hairdryer.
I was experiencing noise on my ns7ii mic and I gave it to a repairer and after repair the controller is not powering on complete. It's not showing any sign when connected to laptop... Pls help
Have you tried the firmware update in the description? That didn’t work for me though. However, I just dropped off my NS7III at a repair shop yesterday, we suspect a component on the motherboard has come loose. I think I’ve identified which one. If I hold the component down, it will start up correctly. I will updated soon 😊
Hello thanks for the update could you please show me/us the component which you holding down and makes the device to start up correctly? I will feel more happy if my NS7III it'll come back to work @@hiphopsuperman
GREAT you got it apart, but your "invention" is also great. Could you please clarify what size screws you used? Something most folks could make if needed. Don't forget the antiseize grease when you put it back together :) Thanks for posting.
I used M10x1 machine screws. I would actually recommend using something just a little bit smaller. These actually had to screw into the holes. It would be better if it were a little smaller and could just slide in. But this is all I had on hand.
Here’s the reply I received from OneUp. The fix worked for me 😊 “Sorry to hear that your EDC tool is stuck within your steerer. We can definitely help with this. Sometimes it's just a crooked multitool and you can get lucky by pulling up and down while rattling the EDC tool. This can reorient the multi-tool within the carrier and it will pop out. More commonly, one of the multitool side plate bolts has come loose and it's just not going to come out further than that loose bolt. When this happens you will need to loosen your stem bolts and try to unthread the top cap using vice grips. You'll want to be as careful as possible to not damage the top cap. It should loosen off pretty easily as they shouldn't be torqued higher than 4Nm.”
Thats a very common noise that the actual controller frequency is making thru the motor... this particular type of motor (outrunner), all do it. RC outrunner motors will make the exact same noise at low amps, and a high pitched noise at higher amps/rpms. I actually think they did a great job tuning the noise out on this setup while riding.
Just received my new bike that has a Photon installed. Seems I have the exact same problem with my unit. I opted not to have the throttle installed. Wondering what was the outcome for your situation?
I don’t have the throttle installed on mine either. It hasn’t been repaired yet as my dealer is waiting for a replacement part. In the meantime, CYC has given me the password to disable the temperature sensor in the app. I only ride in street mode to ensure I won’t overheat anything until it gets repaired.
@@hiphopsuperman yeah not having a temperature sensor sounds mildly terrifying. Do you know if it’s a full motor replacement of something that can be fixed given the right part? (It’s so sad to have a failure on delivery of my new bike)
@@MotionFriend don’t sweat not having a temperature sensor. Unless you are running the motor at peak wattage for extended periods, it won’t get anywhere close to overheating. I believe the motor core will need to be replaced. There seems to be two major parts in the motor, the electric motor, and the controller. There are not very many individual parts within the kit that can be replaced. I understand it’s frustrating, but I was really happy they at least had the password to get me back on the road
I get a similar grinding noise when the motor is at 1450-1550 rpm...however I get it there, throttle or PAS. Am wondering if it is a harmonics issue amplified by the fact that the motor is in direct contact with the downtube where I do not use the tube spacer. Am considering dropping it this weekend and installing something to absorb a smidge of vibration and see if that makes a difference. I can't tell from your video if your install is similar or not.....my frame is a 1984 Fuji Sagres, steel all around.
I'm having similar issues with my NS7ii, where it's having trouble powering up. Everything lights up, and while it's receiving MIDI commands from the DJ software to flash the lights, start the motors etc, it's not transmitting any MIDI data. Eventually if I try restarting it a few times it'll connect properly and work fine from then on. The dodgy capacitor theory sounds plausible, don't suppose the folks at Numark ever mentioned which capacitor on the board was the likely culprit? Not afraid of busting out the soldering iron if I have a rough idea where I should be looking... ;)
I never did bring up the question with them, but I don’t think they would ever be very helpful with the problem. If you don’t mind taking apart the unit, take a look at the capacitors and see if you can see any that are bulging. If I were to try and attempt the repair myself, I would simply go ahead and replace all of the capacitors for good measure. I haven’t done that, I simply leave my unit on once it’s running properly. If I were really motivated I think I would hire someone to replace them all for me. I think it is best to have a variable temperature soldering iron to avoid damage to the motherboard.
@@hiphopsuperman I've had mine apart tonight and checked the voltages running from the supply circuits. The power supply board produces 28V which then feeds the motor drives and the motherboard, which produces a dual rail 15V and a single 5V line to the main PCB with all the faders, lights and buttons. The measured voltages are not exact, but I suspect they are close enough. However, I'm suspecting a bit of DC ripple on that main 28V line could be the culprit. The PSU is rather poorly designed, mounting the output filter caps right next to a couple of transistors on a heatsink that get rather warm - it's best to keep the caps well away from any heat sources. I'm going to try replacing the 3 1000uF caps on the output of the PSU and see if that improves things. If it works I'll let you know, replacing parts on the PSU is an easy job compared to messing with the motherboard.
@@djsherz I’ll be honest, almost all that went over my head! 😆 but yes, please report back with what you discover. If that fixes it, I may take another crack at mine.
@@djsherz awesome! Is that the 3 caps on the upper right in this photo? www.dropbox.com/s/m3dp6e24s1ql13t/Photo%202022-02-27%2C%209%2057%2020%20AM.heic?dl=0
A friend has the Photon and tells me his temp readings are very high. Not all over the place like the crazy readings shown in your video, just super high. My Photon temp readings seem to be very accurate. Usually around 120°F running at 300-500 watts. Much less running at 50-100 watts. Other readings, like Wh/m, are completely wrong. Motor runs great though!
Obviously it depends on what power levels you are running your motor. Every motor will run at different temperatures depending on if you are on minimal assistance, or level three on race mode. I agree some of the readings don’t seem accurate. On my DS 103 display, the efficiency doesn’t even appear. It just shows zero. But the motor is wonderful! I’m just hoping that this temperature problem gets resolved. Still waiting to hear back from CYC.
I saw there is also a temp on the controller, wonder if they can use that sensor instead of the motor? Maybe motor sensor is affected by em noise from the motor itself?
@@hiphopsuperman Controller just checks voltage and then translates obtained value to temperature. If I'm not mistaken higher temperature means higher voltage in thermistor.
