I was looking for others who have done some this with a 1236. wont don't exactly the same as my boat needs to keep weight down but definitely gonna do something similar to mine.
Awesome! It's very hard to keep the weight down in such a small boat. It adds up way quicker than you'd think no matter what material you use. The easiest way to drop weight is switching to lithium batteries. They're expensive, but I think they're a necessity for a 1236. Depending on how far you go and how much gear you have, I wouldn't expect to put two people on and still be under the weight limit. You could do it on mine if you're a very small person, but that's about it without going over.
@derekmcjonboat I already have lithium for my trolling motor and sounder. My outboard is electric start and uses a normal marine lead, but once warranty is out I will switch to a dual purpose lifepo
@derekmcjonboat I mainly just want to add a bit of casting deck and electronics storage to the front. Not going full conversion just something to help when fly fishing
Thanks a lot! I'm pretty proud of how it turned out! I find gloves only make it harder to handle small parts - like the approximately 40 million rivets that went into this boat. I didn't have any issues through the whole build, except for the one time I stupidly didn't move my hand and drilled into my fingertip when the bit punched through.... Though I don't think gloves would've helped much with that.
Yep, part 1 of the series is when I did the bottom foam and I think the rest is shown in the rod lockers videos. I routed the bevels and lines for extra drainage. The boat stays outside, so I didn't want there to be any chance of water getting stuck under or around the foam and freezing in the winter time. Though I did find that water was slow to drain in between the storage boxes, so I wasn't entirely successful in that.
Check out TBNation.net for all your parts and accessories. I think Anthony Jones has done some 15s, or check out Adam Ryan's 1432 here: ru-vid.com/group/PLYnhuAxsRTpL8cl_ZSV3TMEJZ0ANc0pWV
Sorry, don't know what to tell you. I'm not an expert or anything, this 1236 is the only boat I've done like this. On my 1648 Bass tracker, for the livewell hole, I used a boat plug from the inside and filled it with silicone from the outside as a backup. That's only because the previous owner just filled it with silicone and left it at that. Aside from having it welded closed, I don't know what the best way would be.
To the boxes or to the lid? They were cut to the right height on the lid side then riveted on. To mount them to the boxes, I left a space between each angle, slid the hinge between and riveted them through both boxes from under the lip.
Thanks! I don't remember exactly, because I tried a bunch of different bits from different suppliers. I have one in my Amazon history that I _think_ was the primary one I used. Here's the link: a.co/d/fRPUXx0
@@derekmcjonboat thank you! Hmm, I’m using the same? I’m having difficulty bending as effortlessly as you did. Same bender as you have. Perhaps a different hardness of aluminum
It definitely could be that it's a different grade. I noticed a big difference in hardness between the sheets and the angle, especially when countersinking. The angle was quite a bit softer. Those brakes are also garbage and they bend in the middle, leading to an uneven 90. That's why I spent so much extra time hammering with the dead blow. Not sure how you have yours set up but mine was screwed down to the work table and I was holding the whole thing down with my foot to get the leverage I needed.
Do you mean which bit? It's a 120° bit to match the angle on the rivet. I ordered it online somewhere. The standard 90° ones in the hardware stores didn't let them sit flat.
all this work and id rather have the boat without all the stuff added.. ur just ruining it.. shouldve went with a 16 foot jon i ur thinking about making it a bass boat.. now u cant even lift it anymore..
I respectfully disagree that this ruined it. This boat was meant to replace my kayak which when fully loaded was also very difficult to lift. This is better. Sure, it's a bit heavier, but with way more storage, the ability to walk around and it's much more comfortable to fish off of. I also do have a 16 foot bass tracker. They're for different things.
@@derekmcjonboat then u made id lighter then it looks, most of these become too heavy after adding decking and stuff, I use my 1236 bare (ive got some comfort seats and livescope and some rodholders).. fish off it with 2 or 3 people most of the time. Most waters i fish i have to carry it in (over fences and stuff).I show up with a bigger boat if possible though. But having acces to these waters is what makes the 1236 the best thing to have.
Yeah that makes sense if you need it to be super portable. In that case, this is definitely not a solution for you. In my case, pretty much everywhere I'm going to put it has some type of access I can get close to with my truck, so I don't need to be able to lift it over my head or anything. I designed it for my specific use case - to be a one-person boat with tons of storage that I can use in all the same places I used my kayak. Biggest benefit is there's no setup or takedown like I had to do with my kayak. I just drop it in, start the motor and I'm catching fish. All my rods stay right in the lockers, all my tackle in the hatches - it's ready to go at all times. Like I said in the reply to your other comment, had I known I'd have to trailer it, I likely would've gone with a 16ft from the start, but only because I was on the fence about that anyway and that would've slightly tipped the scale toward the bigger boat. I still enjoy the end product and it came out pretty much exactly how I had hoped. BTW, for reference the finished weight is 330 lbs without motor, batteries and gear. Starting weight was 139.8lbs for the bare hull. So it's now too heavy to move around comfortably but not by a whole lot. With a mid mount dolly and some creative ramp solutions, I could have still put it in the back of the truck, but I decided it wasn't worth it and went with the trailer instead.
@@derekmcjonboat That makes a lot of sense though. the boat is probably a lot more stable with all the added weight (thats like a extra person in the boat). I usually bring a 10 gallon bucket to have like a counterweight if i need it.. Ive got mine on a non boat trailer, just smack it on there put 1 strap on it and im done. I have some loose stuff on there like the trolling motor/battery seats and stuff but thats like a 5 minute setup. Have caught all my pb''s on the jon though, cant beat fishin where noone else dares to fish.. If i go on big waters there is all kinds of guides and other fisherman around.. so hard to find a really big fish when there is pressure like that.
Realy nice but ur missing the point of the boat where u can carry it in 500 yards and find fish on spots noone els gets to go to.. If i were to makeover a jon boat I would atleast pick a 14-15 footer and a extra wide one.. since ur only going to trailer it now anyways.. might aswell pick one that is big enough to handle the extra weight. I just put a big lithium battery on mine and a normal 70lbs trolling motor.. Most smaller lakes i dont need to go more then a few miles to the other side anyway, but i do need to carry the boat and stuff in most of the time.
I agree with you 100%. I underestimated just how much weight would be added when I tried to calculate it before I started. Had I known I'd have to trailer it anyway, I would've gone with a 1648 from the start. I do like this one for solo fishing in small relatively shallow ponds though and rivers. I like that there's room for literally everything I could want to bring and have comfortably spent the entire day on the boat. I can always still get close with the trailer then pull it off manually if there's no launch. But for most other situations, it's nice to have the extra space and ability to fish two people. My next project will probably be an 18ft bass tracker if I get the time and money again.
Thanks! It's a small boat and I'm a big guy so it's not the most stable, but I can move around on it just fine so long as I'm careful. Haven't fallen in yet. I added right around 190lbs before people and gear. It's definitely a one person boat now.
Time stamp 1:38 is the blue towel for dipping your countersink bit into to prevent galling ??? I slowed things down to 1/4 speed but can't tell ,,,,thanks
Yeah there's just some cutting oil on it. I was getting a lot of chatter with the counter sink bits. I went through a few different styles of bit before I found one that cut really well.
At 11 minutes you are using the butt end of one of your clamps to jam a piece of metal down into the space where the hinge flap has to go ,,,, what the heck is that piece of metal for ??
It's for added strength only. Because I was using 1/16" angle and that hinge was unsupported below, I threw in a piece of 1½" x 1/8" flat bar to make it a little more solid. I did the same thing with the floating hinges on the rod lockers but because that one was a much longer 48" span I ended up adding some support below anyway. If you're using 1/8" angle you could probably get away without the flat bar, but I wouldn't recommend doing that anywhere you'll be regularly standing.
@@derekmcjonboat OK got it I used all 1.5 x 1/8 angle as 1/16th was not readily available so everything is good to go., made my hatches yesterday as per your vids and will be putting down the 1/16 decking today then a little research on EVA / or gator skin and decide on the final decking surface. Thanks for your help.
No problem! A word of caution- it can get absurdly expensive very quickly. My Gatorskinz order came to about $300 USD, but the exchange rate and import taxes added almost $200 to that. I couldn't find a Canadian supplier or any product even remotely comparable. It's held up really well and I don't regret it, but something to keep in mind.
Nope, in the later videos you can see exactly how I did it, but I ended up laying out 3/4" tube and using the aluminum sheet on top. The only wood used in the boat at all is in the transom and that was just because it was in perfect shape and not worth replacing with aluminum. The total thickness on the lids is actually 3/4". I did all aluminum to avoid any possibility of warping or rot in the future, but you could go with 3/4" plywood on all the stationary panels if you wanted to save a little cost. Though by the time you seal the wood it ends up being pretty close to the same cost and weight
@@derekmcjonboat Yes I skipped ahead and it makes perfect sense now thanks , I had a terrible time attaching the outer channel piece for the decking to attach to .Where my deep V tinny approaches the bow nothing is flat or level and I had a terrible time trying to figure out how to get that line straight for the channel to attach to what's your trick? It would have been much simpler in a John boat. Also unless you know what your boats stance is in the water your casting deck may be leaning back or forwards , this all looks so frigging easy in the videos and as well there is no 1/16 L available in Ontario what the hell ?? I have to use 1/8 for everything and it is really hard to bend even with all the cuts I made with my miter saw.
Haha, my trick was pure luck. I leveled the entire deck to the existing seats working under the assumption that they were all level to each other. They weren't - the bow seat was very slightly higher, though luckily not enough to make a noticeable difference. I'm in Ontario too and sourced all my aluminum from Metal Supermarkets. They have locations all over southern Ontario. I did buy everything about 2 years ago so I'm not sure what's available now. Stay away from Home Depot for the metal. It's insanely expensive compared to the suppliers. Maybe try asking around for 1" x 1" x 1/16" angle instead of L channel? If you CAN track down some 1/16, I'd definitely recommend that instead of 1/8. Much lighter and much easier to work with.
Reposting this really here, in case you don't get notified on the other comment: If you're not already aware of them, I'd recommend checking out some of the videos posted by the guys I've linked in my video descriptions, particularly Michael Lopez at Tiny Boat Nation. He's the OG tiny boat guy and has a ton of in depth instructional videos available for free. Adam Ryan also put together an excellent series on his 1436 Jon boat. They both explain in detail what they're doing and why, as opposed to my straight time lapse videos. I put mine up more as a "what I did" rather than "how to".
@@derekmcjonboat Thanks for the reply and the videos, they're brilliant. I am making pretty good progress now but there is still a long way to go. My tansom is AL inside and out I wasn't going to drill right through as you did in your video of the wooden transom. I was just going to blind rivet into the transom wall on the inside of my boat, I was at metal supermarket yesterday in Etobicoke where I live and it really is pricey to mod these boats out looks like Mr. Metal is a very good option to consider I will be there Monday for my 3/4 tubing for the hatches thanks for now Oh BTW in you r video you were working on the rear corner hatches and you had both flaps of your hinge in the space between your back to back angle I would have thought you would have spaced that angle to the width of just one of the hinge flaps? a little later on you kept pushing a thin strip[ of metal into the same recess while positioning your hinge, wondered what that was ?
Nice work Derek, can't wait to see the finished boat, also can you advise what brand and type of blade you used in your saw to cut the seats out with, and what size rivets did you used to install the framing. ?
I think it was a Milwaukee brand metal blade. Something like 14 TPI maybe? All the rivets for the framing were 3/16", with some 1/8" for the smaller non structural stuff.
No, I used FlexSeal for that. I wouldn't trust it anywhere else but it seemed good enough for the foam. It's unlikely that any water will get in there but it was just an extra precaution
Edit: Avoid using pink foam on the bottom as much as you can and don't support anything structural with it. Gas will dissolve the pink foam. I found that out the hard way. I've only done this one build so I'm no expert, but I definitely preferred the xps foam board. It was much easier to work with and (I think) it's more water resistant, even when cut. I wouldn't have done any pour foam at all but I couldn't think of a better way to lock in the rod tubes - and I wanted to get as much flotation in there as possible. My unprofessional opinion is pink foam unless absolutely necessary.
Update: I just had my gas tank rupture and it completely dissolved a bunch of the foam on the bottom of the boat. New advice - a) make sure your gas tank is in some kind of enclosure to prevent it from leaking into the bottom of the boat and b) don't use the pink foam to support anything structural at all. I'll now have to do some pretty extensive repairs.
This is not helpful for anyone who isn't a Patreon member. I understand how that works, but not everyone can afford the cost. And, yeah, I know people can become a member for just a dollar or five dollars or just blow fifty dollars per month or more! Am I being negative? You bet I am😮. And just watch what you're putting on RU-vid and imagine that you're trying to get something useful from this!? It's not helping anyone else but yourself! You go, "Dude!" It's really called CLICKBAIT!! Plain and Simple 😂.
I would seriously disagree with your comments however at the same time I feel your frustration, I am so frustrated with the small job I am doing on my boat and I am a custom metal worker with a full shop setup. The fact is that this is simply not easy! I can attest to that however, as when I was becoming a custom knife maker 25 years ago there were moments of rage when I would smash the first thing I could get my hands on and then later something would just click and I would be bouncing off the walls with excitement, James that is just how it is when you tackle something outside of your normal activities. Two days ago I wanted to cut my boat in half with a chainsaw and set it on fire but I have since figured out my mistake, live and learn. As much as you feel is missing from this video there is a treasure trove of critical information you simply wont get anywhere else, I would also mention after trying to make my own knife making video some years ago I came to realize it was more work that the knife I was making and I gave up, my point being anyone who puts this mountain of work together and posts it for free on the internet is a solid person who deserves credit for their hard work. I slowed the videos down to 1/4 speed and just this morning I saw something super important I had missed previously so today I will have to drill out a few rivets and reposition my angle for my hinge installation, also I have scoured Marketplace to try and save a few bucks on materials and it has paid off just a few weeks ago I got a piece of 1/8 x 1.5 x 1.5 20' angle for 45 bucks,,,,JACKPOT It has taken me 5 weeks just to build a casting deck and I am retired. Try not to get frustrated these videos are super helpful I would never have started something like this if not for these videos, have a great day and good luck🙂
James' comment amused me because I think it was meant for someone else's video. @darren, if you're not already aware of them, I'd recommend checking out some of the videos posted by the guys I've linked in my video descriptions, particularly Michael Lopez at Tiny Boat Nation. He's the OG tiny boat guy and has a ton of in depth instructional videos available for free. Adam Ryan also put together an excellent series on his 1436 Jon boat. They both explain in detail what they're doing and why, as opposed to my straight time lapse videos. I put mine up more as a "what I did" rather than "how to".
For the corner brackets I just used 1" x 1/16" because that's what I had on hand. It's held up just fine, but I would have preferred to use 2". That way I could have doubled the amount of rivets in each bracket.
Thanks! I'm not a professional builder or anything. This is strictly a DIY project, so I couldn't give you a guess as to how much that might cost. It would be different for every boat and would have to be priced based on specifically what you want to do. My entire build ended up at right around $6500 CAD for materials only. Accessories, batteries, motors, tools etc were on top of that.
Nice job. I'm just in the middle of doing mine and still thinking on how to put my switches. Exposed or hidden like yours. I kind of like the way you did it
No they don't. I had to order them through Grainger in the US and have them shipped up to Canada. Problem is they only sell to businesses so I had to beg a favour to get those. They were definitely the hardest thing to source for the whole project.
@@derekmcjonboat although it's been a year since this, just for any future niche parts like that I'd actually suggest McMaster carr, I'm not sure if they ship to Canada though
Good to know. I don't remember if I looked into them at the time but I do remember checking a whole bunch of different US sources and could only find what I needed from Grainger. I did a very quick reddit search and apparently McMaster Carr also only ships to businesses in Canada but those posts were 5+ years old so that may have changed. I'll keep that in mind as a possibility for the future. Thanks!
All the angle is 1" x 1/16", except for the dry lips which was ½" x 1/16". The only time I went thicker than that was for the bow plate with .090 and a couple of pieces of ⅛" flat bar to strengthen up the rod locker hinges.
Yes, I think so? It is the 30" brake, but it's from Princess Auto (the Canadian equivalent to Harbor Freight). I think we get the exact same products, they're just branded differently.
@@derekmcjonboat yes, 30 in harbor freight. I clamped it down as firm as I could go. It worked better the second time. Still a little round on the edges. Tapping with a hammer is definitely helpful. Should be fine for storage boxes. I don’t know about a live well. I guess I’ll see when I get there. 5200 should hopefully hold water. Love your build, great reference. I appreciate you making them. It’s been a big help.
Thanks! Glad I could help. I'm not sure if it came across in the videos, but to get the corners tighter I lined the clamped down wood with a piece of angle. That made the 90° a lot tighter. If you're able to, I'd try welding a piece of angle to the bar that gets clamped down so that it doesn't flex as much.
Thanks! I'm glad I did. Turns out that water can make its way down between the hinges and it would've been trapped between the boxes without that. If I ever do another build, that'll be something to solve.
Yeah, there was a bit of flex on the corners at first, but the under supports strengthened the lid up a ton. There's still just a little bit of flex on the lid overall but it wasn't noticable once I put on the EVA foam. I also fished the boat all last season and didn't have any issues with it deforming.
