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@@iglcoatingsauthat is great news- you’re saving me from a panic attack lol. I just got PPF about a month ago, and my car was left in front of a house for three days (I was on vacay), with sprinklers on and off for three days in very very hot weather with high UVs. The hood got a massive amount of water spots. I was super worried it got through the PPF. So safe to say it did not right? Worst comes to worst, I can have them replace my PPF and all will be well? P.S. so far I tried 3d cutting compound finish, can’t tell if it worked or not. Pretty sure that eliminated my ceramic coating as well?
I know this is a older video, but Dawn dish soap (i like the power wash) & a tooth brush or whatever brush you want to use to scrub it off without taking tour polish with it ..
hi, you mentioned in the beginning that you'd list the pros and cons of a matte wrap, but you didn't mention any cons aside from the door jam not being able to be wrapped. are there any cons of having a car wrapped in matte functionally? thanks.
Hi mate You raise a valid point. The only cons to a matte conversion is some areas like door jambs and door handles may not be able to be wrapped. Other than that the only other con is the additional cost. All other matters are no different to any glossy ppf such as stretch marks, debris and dust etc... which is primarily relating to the skill of the installer rather than the film itself
First video I could find on this exact title issue. I did apply a VRP to my own but of course that will surely not fix it like this. I’m in the USA so I’m thinking I may need to use some Goo-Gone based on how that glitz worked. Thanks for making this video!
My personal opinion is that once the microfiber has been used to clean ceramic coatings I don't recommend using it again as it will not have the same absorption and may lead to scratching on soft paint. I know that some people soak the microfibers immediately in hot water and multi-purpose cleaner before putting them in the washing machine. The glass plus pad Can be washed with water
With a new 79, is this just sprayed straight on the underbody after a hot wash etc, or is there more to the process. E.g. do installers treat any existing oxidation first. And how's it better than petroleum based products, or a penetrol.
Hi mate, it is a completely different chemical and type of product compared to petroleum based products in every way shape and form, a quick google search will net you all the answers be it on youtube video or published material. This is a 2 pack clear coat (like a paint) but if you really want the full answers link onto this link and join the training course, it will cover every detail and have all the documentation for you to download and read including the astm test results, how to apply and validations edu.iglcoatings.com/courses/igl-coatings-online-coatings-course/lectures/51003269 In terms of prep work you coat the surface that is free from corrosion or contamination so really depends on the car itself so my new 79 needed some surface rust brushed off and cleaned up. As the product is designed for adhesion directly to metal it is also advisable to lightly scuff up any painted surfaces for better mechanical adhesion but my car was just sprayed straight on. Older cars might need some dry ice blasting or sand blasting etc..
Have a look at IGL eclipse. It is not publicly available but it does offer similar benefits just Not as much for corrosion resistance (500 salt spray hours vs 6000)
It can do both. This was applied to the brand new underbody of the 79 LandCruiser but can be mixed with pigment and applied as stand alone paint coating
Hi mate welcome to the channel! I honestly would think there should be a class action lawsuit against Toyota because the vehicle is most certainly not fit for what it's being advertised to do. I was underneath it last night installing diff breathers and the amount of rust from brand new is crazy. Even though it is all coated now It looks like it's been rusting for a few years only driven 500km and 1 week old
It's not really surprising, Toyota went cheap in the mid 2000's, mate of mine has been a Toyota mechanic since he left high school 30yrs ago, he has quite the stories
I wont be surprised if all manufacturers have lost their pride and just purely look at doing the bare minimum now to make maximum profit. in saying this, the car is sold at a huge premium that warrants "average" not "well below average" paint thickness
Toyota have always had very thin paint. When I had my Prado assessed by Toyota for peeling paint, they said that anything that over about 100 microns was indicative of a previous respray and would only warrant panels that measured less than that.
the standard industry practice for respray is to look at the out of ordinary thickness. Because most cars are now sprayed by robots the paint thickness is fairly consistent (within lets say 20-30 microns) but if there is a panel with a very high variance (more or less) you can assume something has been done to that panel. We do the same thing before carrying out paint correction on a car to try and identify possible different paint but the ultimate way to investigate will be to use a posimeter gauge that uses ultrasound to actually see the various layers not just overall thickness
Sadly I have to agree. For the premium they charge for this car taking everything away that it doesn't have any luxuries or modern items that we can attribute to reliability and simplicity they should at least put some paint on it.
I have a 2021 sandy taupe 76 series and every single door has rust on the corners. It is going in to get re-sprayed under warranty this week. The paint job is shocking!
goes in cycles, manufacturers go gloss colour coded then back to rough plastic textured plastic. I think prevention is better than cure. always mask up when polishing or waxing
Terry has managed to preserve 3 generations of GTRs that for a long time was only available to race teams or Nissan executives. Nissan should Put them in their DNA garage when Terry wants to let them go