Up to what size can lenses be used with the Bellow in this way, as in variant 1? So how thin can it be minimum / maximum and how large can it be maximum? The same with the length, how long can a lens go to the back, theoretically the depth of the lens could also be 15cm?
Bellows come in many and various sizes, dimensions, and diameters. If you are getting into this type of adapting, you might want to do like I do - have an inventory of many different bellows on hand. That way it's easy to do a quick test to see which particular bellows fits a given lens. I've found that most bellows are fairly inexpensive. Good luck!
You can explain this wonderfully, have you ever converted an old petzval / brass lens to an M42 lens? I would be very interested, especially with these sometimes huge lenses.
Hello there. I have a quick question about adapting lenses. It is a little of topic but would appreciate any suggestions. I am looking to buy an EF lens. but the Sony E version of the same one cost 200 dollars less. The only difference between them is that the Sony one has that barrel on the end, it is not a native Sony lens (Laowa 100mm f2.8) So would I be able to somehow remove that barrel piece and put a canon EF mount on the lens?
Excellent video-thank you very much! Managed to snag the lens mount and lens together for only $36. Was able to buy the adapters on Amazon and carefully hot glue the two together.
Great video! 🎉 Do you know the model name(s) of the old style projectors? Here in Sweden we have a lot of Leitz prado 150 projectors that look slightly similar to the one in your video but I have so far never seen the lens on those.
I recently purchased the front of an old Prado 500 off of eBay and it features the lens mount that screws off as shown in the video. I am not personally familiar with the 150 models, but the front looks similar based on photos I am seeing.
Please, I'm going crazy. I have searched for the Nikon k2 ring in my country. But the prices are prohibitive. Is there an equivalent clone ring that doesn't cost me an arm and a leg? I have the lens and the adapter for my mount but I don't know where to find a cheap one. :(
Sorry to hear that. Here in the USA, K rings are still cheap. Just a couple weeks ago I purchased all 5 K rings (and a leather case) for just $20 USD on eBay.
@@AffordablePhotography I saw your video and bought the Diaplan on the spot. I already have the 52 reverse canon for my Canon R6, but finding the K2 is delaying the experience of enjoying this self-made lens. Anyway, let's see if I'm lucky and find one. Thank you for responding and infinite thanks for your video!! You explain everything in a very simple and didactic way. Greetings from Spain.
Thank you very much. I used an additional way and printed a 3D printed Adaptor for Pentax PK. I can focus to infinity. It does not work with M 42. You showed this.
does anyone know the image circle for a colorplan or super-colorplan lens? I'm wondering if these can be adapted for use in medium format projectors. I have a 6x6 liesegang fantax 600a projector I'd like to upgrade the lens to.
Is it possible to add a new mount to a Vivitar 28mm Nikon 1 mount lens to an EF or EOS RF mount camera? The Nikon 1 was discontinued and I believe mirrorless but the Vivitar 28mm close focus 28mm f2.8 was vintage. I thought it just had to be Nikon F but it was not. Thanks.
The answer is simple. But rather than spoon feed it to you, go to this website and figure it out for yourself - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
Thank you ever so much for doing this series. I have inhereited a few C mount lenses, some of which really nice, Angenieux mainly and was scratching my head how I might use these with M4/3 cameras at 1080, especially my BlackMagic Pocket Original cine camera, which as a Super16 sized sensor. This gives me scope to experiment and see what happens.
Nice bunch of videos on lens adapting. I wonder if the draw (flange distance) changes something for the adapting. Mirrorless cameras brands hawe their own distance but also different adapters, from normal to slim. I have several lenses, including some colorplan ones but I use helicoid for focusing and it's not going very well with Sony. I'm thinking about cutting the last part of the lenses, like you did with the Diaplan, to better manage focusing. The same goes for the 200mm Leitz Wetzelar, if I put only a space and the adapter, I don't have a good focusing even with its original tube. Something doesn't add up to me...
Just bought a Leitz colorplan 90mm today. I didn't know if it was a good buy... now I've only seen RU-vid videos. And for the price of 7.50 euros it doesn't seem like a bad bet. I almost threw the projector away. because I don't think I need it anymore, but I'll take out the thing where the lens rotates... Thanks a lot for the info
When I moved on from my Olympus OM-1 film camera to a Canon DSLR I tried adapting the old lenses I had accumulated for the Olympus. The telephoto lenses didn't work very well and I found the Canon DSLR lenses much better. The Olympus 50mm f/1.8 worked very well on the Canon as did a Tokina 28mm f/2.8 lens. Of course you have to go full manual with these but you can set the Canon to auto ISO, which helps quite a lot.
Indeed, some of those old Olympus full frame lenses are outstanding. My favorite is the 50mm f1.2 - wide open it has super creamy/dreamy bokeh!! www.flickr.com/photos/f2guru/47421928012/in/dateposted-public/
Hi, thanks a lot! One idea, if you've mounted a lens in reverse (13:30), you can also attach a macro extension tube in order to protect the rear lens element. Best wishes from Germany, Ralf
Very inspiring series of videos! I have one question about the Colorplan: when you disassemble it, how do you go about cleaning the lens elements? I got a slightly hazy specimen (might be fungus) but I am worried about damaging the coating. Did you ever try hydrogen peroxide on Colorplans? I previously had a *mint* newer-version Colorplan but I managed to destroy its coating by what I believe were superglue fumes (PSA...don't make my mistake), so I am quite traumatized already !
I too have had vapors from drying glue (e.g. Super Glue) condense on lenses' optical elements. That's why when I do use such glues near optical glass I have a small fan on it while drying. Also, every 12 hours or so I will clean the optical elements of any "glue haze" that might have condensed on them. I find if you can remove the "glue haze" soon it's not so difficult, however, if you leave it sit for a few weeks/months it can be nearly impossilbe to remove. As for cleaning the glass elements of your Colorplan lens, what I do is use progressively stronger solvents until I get the job done. I go from: eye glasses clearner to sensor cleaning solution to 99% isopropyl alcohol to 3% hydrogen peroxide to acetone to "Zippo" lighter fluid. If that does not work then I just toss the lens in the garbage!
@@AffordablePhotography Interesting, I think in my case the glue actually reacted with the coating (I had black spots in the coating) but maybe something else caused this. Anyhow, I was able to remove the coating entirely for even performance and the lens is still usable :) Thank you, I will follow your cleaning advice (once I gather the courage to proceed 😅) !
I have only gotten them with the projector that I purchased. Once in a while I see a Diaplan lens on ebay being sold with it's OWM helcoid, but I have never seen just the helicoid sold all by itself.
A lot of worthy, no priceless data here. Thank you & you're the Vintage-lens-Man. 9:24 Only I hope to never buy a lens from you guess it's clear what I'm gonna get for cheap! 😱😆😂🤣 Keep up the good work and needless to say, Thumbs up, you have a new subscriber and more (A new admirer).
Mr David sorry to bother you but I have a question. I have Samyang prime lenses with a Nikon F mount but I need to convert to PL. I was wondering if they are any options to convert. Thank you in advance 🤝
Putting a PL mount on just about any lens is possible, but it’s just not going to be quick, cheap, or easy. Check out this article for more details - thecinelens.com/2012/02/09/canon-ef-to-pl-is-it-possible/ Your best hope is to contact David at Leitax ( www.leitax.com/ ). He is just now designing brand new cine mounts, and he just might be able to help you.
Very nice video! I was considering doing something similar for use with my recently purchased Kiev 88 focal plane shutter SLR. I have a set each of Kiev 88 and RZ 67 extension tubes and hope to adapt my Mamiya RZ 67 lenses for use with the Kiev 88 camera.
Hi Very interesting, I wonder whether you can, if you’ve got some old lenses, could one actually just remove the mounts from those if lens is beyond repair and therefore you could remove and refit, eg I have a couple of Mamiya Sekor E lenses, that spring to mind and spent hours trying to find adapters, but there are none, not a fantastic fantastic lens but wondering if it may produce a surprise if repurposed. I’m not talking about doing it with them loads, but could you swap them over, is there anything to stop you doing that I’ll be interested on your opinion, again very very good information and I’m sure there’s a lot of people that have never ever heard of it, amazing really, it’s a bit like the chap who invented the windscreen wiper for the car and the British guy that invented the cats eyes in the roads, because he saw a cat one night and developed the Glass and they progressed since then, but it’s very very interesting, really is thank you very much indeed again. DG New Forest U.K. I shoot a lot of manual cameras anyway and have actually just purchased an Exata V Ihagee Dresden 1950 from USA and I’m looking forward to seeing what it’s like as well I have also picked up a couple of lens that need some attention but it all adds to life’s rich Tapestry.
Without replacement mounts being available from Leitax.com (or others) for your Mamiya Sekor E lens, you would need to take a mount from a donor lens that does fit onto your camera, and somehow afix that mount to your Mamiya lens. First, the diameter of the donor mount would need to be close to the diameter of the Mamiya mount you are removing. Next, you would likely need to drill precision holes in the donor mount that matched up perfectly with the exisitng mount holes in the Mamiya lens. You'd probably need to have a precision machine shop do that for you. Finally, to insure focus at infinity, you'd need to either remove or add shims between the mount and the lens. So, replacing lens mounts on a lens that does not have a commercial replacement mount available from Leitax.com involves much effort, precision, and often expense. Only you can judge if it's worth it...
Is the Portugal model inferior? i have found a very cheap one close to me. Also does the Front element have an internal thread? im guessing not. I would like top use one of these with an iscorama 54. i need to mount the colorplan at infinity and then use the iscorama to acheive focus.
I have owned 7 of the German versions, but have no experience using the Portugal version. I do know one photographer who does like the Portugal version. If you do try it, please post a comment here on what you think of it. Regards...
@@AffordablePhotography Thanks for the reply. I have since found a German one, exactly the same as yours, so it seems, but with no focus mechanicm. but as i said before, i jsut need to hit infinity and lock it off. I will come back and update once its all assembled. Thanks again.
Thanks for the useful video. I've ordered a Diaplan 80mm f3.5 a few days ago with the original focusing helicoid to adapt it easily to a M39-FX adapter. Did you try this 3.5 version, what do you think about it?
I have owned a couple of the f/3.5 versions over the years. Nothing wrong with them, in fact, I think that they are every bit as good as the f/2.8 version, except of course their depth of field is not as thin. Being a confirmed "bokeholic", I of course prefer the f/2.8 version. But for most photographers out there, I expect they'd be very happy with the f3.5 version.
@@AffordablePhotography thanks for your kind answer. I'm also a bokeh lover, I hope the smaller aperture will be enough anyway. Subscribed to your channel.
Thanks for the video. I am currently trying to print a mount with the 3d printer. I really like the solution with the helicoid adapter. Thank you for showing me.
Good info. At 08:15 you mention adapting a lens with step-up rings etc. by gluing fittings, but you don't explain how the lens attaches to your camera. It seems to lock perfectly in place when you turn it.
I often use "macro reversing" rings to mount my "ring" adapters to my lenses. I have an inventory of various reversing rings for each camera mount I use ( www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=nikon+f+macro+reversing+ring&_sacat=0 ). There's no one size fits all when it comes to using the rings method, so I find it useful to have dozens of various rings in bins, and then it's a mater of experimentation to find a combination to works for a given lens and a given camera.
