Really late to the party but his comment at 9:20 about needing an LED flasher isnt true, at least not for me. I just swapped the front side marker lights for LEDs on my truck and they work fine with the OEM flasher
So the thing I was wondering about is a fiber optic cable. Not a ground. That is what I needed to know. I really needed to know if it was a ground before putting my cluster back in. Thank you for taking the time to explain as much as you did. There was one 2 wire light that is a 4wd light, not a check engine light like you said. Just saying. Thanks again! Boy I would really like a video going over all the vacuum lines and wires in the dash... following where they go. That would be amazing.
Hi, I own a 1988 chevy V20 Silverado Suburban 3/4 Ton. I had to replace the instrument cluster. I removed the old cluster. I broke the left tab, lol good thing I have a replacement cluster. I bought on Ebay. I also broke the white light socket that has the fiber-optic wire on it. Do you know where I can get a replacement. Or I might just put regular socket and install my own light in ashtray with limit switch that will turn of replacement light when I close ashtray. I am so glad I watched this video. I did not know what that wire was. I thought it might be a ground. I cant find it in any of the manuals I have. Ok, so much for now. Very informative video. I also have to replace all the outer light assy. The tail light assy are very rare. I have not been able to find them. Do you know of a good website to buy these part?
The dash pads are $400ish thru all the vendors all made by same place in AZ or NV. They dont fit perfect either. The only way to go is a place www.Justdashes.com here in Los Angeles that sands down OEM one and re-vacume foam/vinyl redoes speaker holes all that...like $1000. Its the only correct way to get an OEM dash pad that will fit perfectly unfortunately. Leno and all serious restoration places use em. The $400 ones from classic industries/LMC/brothers trucks all same vendor and most complain about fitments
We used to just do a light coat of spray paint on bulbs back in the 90s change interior bulb color....red blue whatever lol... Stab em into a csrdboard egg crate and mist em one color and put em back in behind dash. Painting the brighter Led blue(high beam) and hazard/turns a color to dark em down a bit and preserve the color. Leds dont run as hot so burning off paint is less of prob also
I removed mine completely, there is lots that can be done, once you have come this far. I removed all the gauges from that 'green' body, and painted the inside bright gloss white.. much more reflective, also I painted bright glossy white on the back side of the black metal gauge bezel. The light really brightens. Also, I cleaned and used conductive grease on all connectors, plugs and sockets. Take a good look at your plastic flexible circuit board.. those are cheap to replace is yours is going bad.. $50-70. Not bad if you are having failures. Conductive grease is the hot tip though, use it on everything. I just replaced a rear tail light bulb, it was corroded into the socket. I cleaned the socket, and put conductive grease on the new bulb, that will never happen again.
Yes you have good detail and take time explaining it all real world unlike the resto shop places that just want you to buy parts and make 10min videos of 8 hour jobs to get you to order from em. You speak clearly and filming is super decent unlike half of the hillbilly Square dudes on here
Sorry for the delay in replying. I really like the Sirius LED bulbs. They fit perfectly and are bright. They are more expensive, but I have had problems with the cheap ones like from JDM, dieing pretty quick. Look these up on Amazon. New-SiriusLED-T10LED
