This video explains it pretty well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xG9GnCydhXI.html

Amazingly quick reply for a 2 year old video

@@skop1219 "All sincere correspondence responded to" 😆 Good luck if you end up giving something like this a try 😉👍

Thanks mate 👍 This performance is just off a manual HAMP too - off an air tank blaster it really rocks 😅

Cheers mate. Progress is slow, but good!

Haha! Thanks Martin. Tried this over the summer but hadn't posted here yet. The whole zero dead-space thing combined with a decently sealing but still slippery inner sleeve on the projectile opens up a range of possibilities for maximising efficiency off of something like a long, skinny 40MAX shell or even a big springer plunger tube that the round launches directly off 🤔

Cheers man! Got a bit of a backlog of things to post 😅

Thanks matey!

Thanks matey 👍 These are fun!

Wow! A blaster from the past 😃 I never did end up painting it or filming a full run-down of it's finished capabilities... It's served me well as a 130fps-cap primary for games for a good number of years though 😅

Cheers mate! The theory's sound but there's a few different ways of making the seal so there's a bit of work to do yet to get it in a functioning blaster 😅

I've not actually tried filling directly with the manual shock-pump and needle valve-adaptor. I'd imagine it'd be possible but you'd need an extra set of hands to hold the needle to the inlet valve and pump at the same time. People have suggested building/printing a unit to hold the shell, but again I've yet to try it. Ideally if you only have the shock pump or wish to fill to higher pressures than a 12v powered unit can get to, you'd build a separate (much larger volume) pressure vessel with a Schader inlet and a regulated needle-adaptor outlet. Pressurise with the hand pump then fill the 40MAX shell to the regulated pressure.

@@unscrupulousmodefiler the shock pump just goes higher than most of the electric pneumatic ones. Like A LOT higher lol I’m sure I can strap it to something to hold the pump body, while I actuate it and hold the valve and stem together. Thank you so much for what you’re doing and sharing here!!! It’s incredible what you can do with some wit and ingenuity

@@oakridgereview1359 Haha! You're welcome. I just keep sticking things where they don't belong until something works 🤣 PS: latest stuff always ends up on Insta first if you want to see more shenannigins: instagram.com/unscrupulousmodefiler/ Good luck, stay safe and have fun! 🤘😎👍

@@unscrupulousmodefiler I gotta get a new one, I logged out with my new phone and can’t get back on my old one haha but I’ll absolutely check it out! Thank you!! Just got my 40MAX Shell in the mail today, waiting for the 3x2mm aluminum tube tomorrow to try

@@oakridgereview1359 Wicked! Let us know how you get on 👀

Hehee! Thanks man 😆

Green gas is basically just propane/LPG with added silicone lubricant but no added smell. It's stored as a liquid in the can/cylinder then expands and cools as it's loaded into the 40MAX tank, then expands and cools some more when the 40MAX is fired. All this means that performance is noticeably affected by ambient temperature... a hot day will give you higher pressures/better performance vs a lower pressures and performance on a cold day. On a 20˚C day, a 1-second fill from a green gas can will give performance equivalent to about 180psi of compressed air. A cold (10-12˚C) gives disappointing performance; and hot (30˚C) day and things get spicy. The compressor I'm using here is an "Air Hawk Pro" which is quite a good quality unit with a powerful motor, large piston volume and solid cast metal cylinder/head unit. Its max. pressure setting is 150psi and if connected up to the 40MAX directly using a Schrader (tire) valve adapter it will stop there but kinda over-run to and will reach about 160-180psi. Downside of this set-up though is that the Schrader adapter is poking out the back - OK if you're leaving it connected but not great if you want a stand-alone "shell" to load into a launcher . If you're using the needle-type adapter it'll max out at 150psi and probably give you slightly less pressure in the tank by the time you disconnect. If you are only using compressed air in the 40MAX you'll have to add silicone lube every now and again. I'd recommend stripping, cleaning and lubing the whole thing every 200 shots or so.

Thing is you'd be dodging in slo-mo too... it'd be hilarious🤣

Cheers! I'll have to do a proper write-up at some point as the ø35mm "Puffin" rounds are somewhat different to the "Blu Meanie" they are based on, but if you have a look through the Imgur album you'll get an idea of how they're made: imgur.com/a/UJkIurA (more below 👇👇) There's a short bit of detail in this previous video on how to hand-make a compressor<>40MAX adapter, along with links in the description to the M6x.75 die you'll need to thread it to fit the 40MAX inlet valve: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-t5RJUN1NcHM.html The launcher's pretty straightforward once you get the adapter sorted. Really it's just a standard "in-line clip" mod with the addition of a spring to ensure each round loads without having to "dip" the barrel. I'm using aluminium tubing for the mag tube (literally a cardboard tube would be fine) and a short length of tube for a barrel that's just tight enough to let the ammo through under pressure. Mine just happens to be ø40mm electrical conduit - though possibly it's a bit tooo tight and that's not helping performance. I think its a Deploy(?) spring inside the mag tube...

Yo! Thanks man 😁

Thanks man 😄 None of it's especially new tech - it's just bringing a bunch of things together and trying to get them to work at a ridiculous scale 😅

@@unscrupulousmodefiler Nothing wrong with the end result being wonderful even if the individual things are more mundane :)

It's all in bits again now... but at least most of the cool electronics are here. NEXT break, we get to put it all together 😅

Hey thank you Mr N! 😃 It's nice to finally have some decent documenting tools. Now... to not get carried away again exploring editing software and *actually* finish the darned blaster 😉

And I finally got around to making some rounds with the squeaky-toys you found ages ago! (see last segment of vid...) Unfortunately they don't squeak on impact 😞(their rebound is too fast and shallow), but in other respects they're making the projectiles safer and overall much more fun 😜👍

Heehee! Literally. And was then left staring at a monster pile of random footage that needed to get jammed together somehow for context... Phew! 😅

Hey cheers! It's good to stop and pull everything together for a change rather than pushing stuff out on the fly 😬

Haha! This was *supposed* to be a how-to vid for the Blu Maxi's themselves... it seems I'm still missing shots of really important steps though so it turned into a rambling catch-up vid on the launcher progress while learning how to edit (really must ease up on all the WHOOOOOSH-y transitions 😆 ) Springs in the RSCB tube are a balancing act between wanting to do what you suggest (needs a relatively strong spring) and not driving the next round into the breach too hard, too soon or too far (ideally you want it resting against the mouth, *just* making a seal). Using a sealing (but movable) plug behind the final round to make a pneumatic ram could be fun but a lot of work to get functional... Thinking I'm better off at this point chasing something like a blast-driven flap that pops up into the mag tube between the rear of the "chambered" round and the warhead of the next one, just *pausing* that round from being driven into the breach until the flow stops and the round being fired has cleared the barrel. The idea would be to simulate the "boom" shot you get from the final round in the mag (when nothing else seals in the breach and you're getting the most out of the air flow from the tank each time) while at the same time evening out the airflow/deadspace across all the shots in the mag... There's a lot to be said for the benefits of using *directed* airflow with this set-up to overcome changes in deadspace. At one point I was running the system with a massive leak around the bend in front of the valve (the tape came away leaving a big smiling gap...) BUT THE RSCB WAS STILL FUNCTIONING 🤯So many things to try 🤣

@@unscrupulousmodefiler what if the turn around is situated just behind the ‘to be fired’ meany? Would that ensure the air flowing into the breech pushes your firing round forward and the others bsckwards? Allowing that balance you speak of? It now seems like the turn around is a good 3 rounds backwards?

@@nirodha7028 Yep, that's exactly were the new turnaround is going to be sitting in the re-design (the turnaround in the proof-of-concept version here just landed where it fell to fit the MMXB under the barrel 😉 ) It wouldn't take much flow for a flap fixed there at the entrance to the mag to be lifted up and into the tube enough to restrict the travel of the following round. Been thinking about it today though and it's probable that having a moving mechanical part like that in there could bite you in the bum eventually... One possible alternative if all we're trying to do is restrict the following round from moving forward until we want it to... try and imagine the walls of the mag around that round are flexible enough for you to be able to just squeeze slightly between your finger and thumb... The round stays in place until you release the finger pressure and the inner spring moves it forwards. If we replace the "finger pressure" with some sort of flexible sealing membrane over a couple of holes in the sides of the mag and apply a bit of air pressure, we might end up with the same result using the forces that are already in play in the build 🤔

Thanks man! Nothing new, just pulling the threads of the story together before I lose track of them 😅

Currently, achieving that hand-pump-then-disconnect-leaving-only-a-stock-shaped-shell is a bit of a unicorn... these shock pumps all seem to be set up for Schrader valve attachment which means having to leave an adapter poking out the back of the 40MAX, and filling using the existing inlet valve with compressed air and a needle-type adapter (ie: same form and function as the outlet on a green-gas can) you get the best results if you have your air already under pressure (otherwise you'd need a couple of extra hands to hold the needle to the valve and pump at the same time...) It could be possible to rig up a different sort of adapter but that would be an additional cost - possibly *per shell*... A rules-lawyering workaround might be to manually fill a larger, separate tank to higher psi which you'd then use with a needle-valve outlet and regulator to fill the 40MAX shells between games (basically a hand-pumped can but with compressed air instead of green gas...) No-one could argue that the air wasn't compressed "by hand" and you could get accurate and consistent pressure in the shell, but at that point you may be running into issues with the organisers simply not wanting pneumatics on the field but not wanting to say it. My go-to wallet-friendly solution is to use a modified needle adapter on a hand-held 12v compressor: Construction: instagram.com/p/CV1HSTIh6TQ/ In action: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ya6-b0B9xyA.html Simple to make and easy to re-fill with no mods to the shells themselves. If you start the compressor up before you insert the needle into the inlet valve then keep it running while you're disconnecting you get a higher and more consistent tank pressure that won't ever get over 180psi. It just isn't "hand-pumped" 😅

Having said all that... it might well be possible to 3D-print something that could hold a stock 40MAX shell and a shock pump with a needle adaptor together so that they stay sealed while you pump manually... 🤔

@@unscrupulousmodefiler That makes a lot of sense. Thank you! the hand compressor seems to be the core of the idea I was thinking of just well effective.

@@unscrupulousmodefiler At that point the compressor makes just as much sense unless you really need to be quiet for some reason.

Thanks for the advice! I've just got my first kit for refurbishing my original tank (replacing the o-rings etc...) because initially I didn't do this enough. Silicon oil between times really does seem to help keep a better seal on everything 🙂

Adapter's pretty straight-forward and doesn't require any permanent modification to the 40MAX tank. In a nutshell you cut the Schrader valve off the inner tube leaving about 15mm of extra length beyond the original threads. Scrape all the rubber off the un-threaded end revealing the brass underneath. It *should* be about ø6.0mm, which *should* fit the M6x0.75mm die without issue. See the wider "rim" in the middle of the Schrader valve in the stills? Ideally you'll use that as a seat for a sealing o-ring (you can see it on the adapter's thread in the last of the still images), but it needs to fit into the original valve's seat on the tank. I skimmed that widest part of the brass very slightly on a lathe until it matched the max. ID of the inlet valve but you could easily just file it down until it fits. Alternately you could use thread-tape but it's a pain to have to keep replacing it. The trickiest part is the threading itself: firstly holding the die (the one that I got from that listing is smaller than any of my holders so I had to improvise...) and then holding the Schrader valve so it doesn't spin while you're cutting it with the die and ruining the original threads. FYI: I unscrew the internals of the Schrader valve so it's just an open tube (better airflow) and leave any pump hooked up for the duration. While technically it should be *possible* to disconnect the pump fast enough to leave enough pressure in the tank, in practice the tank is so small that too much leaks out too fast before the Schrader valve seals.

I wish I had time to do more with these at the mo 😅 Got to work on getting its bigger, badder brother up and running properly first!

@@unscrupulousmodefiler oooooh. Yes! Very exciting!

Cheers matey! Lots of tweaking to go yet but the principle's sound and yeah - that Hydrocannon shell's the shiz! Going to be awesome once the LED's arrive 😎😎

Thanks man - it's great to see it getting closer to its final shape!

I will when I get time 😅

@@unscrupulousmodefiler what green gas to hpa adapter would work best to conect straight to a hpa line

@@archiedrury2676 I don't really know yet. I've been experimenting with LPA ie: low pressure air (≤180psi) provided directly by a small compressor that would be housed in the stock of the blaster... pretty much to avoid having to deal with HPA and the sorts of tanks/connectors/regulators that are required for such high pressures (hundreds of PSI).

@@unscrupulousmodefiler i just need to know what green gas to hpa adapter works with this and what type of adapter

@@archiedrury2676 Sorry, again I'm not familiar with the types of adapter that you can buy... the one I've used in the video I made myself from a ball-inflator adapter and some small aluminium tube: imgur.com/BGGYCnj You could try asking about commercially available adapters at an airsoft store - they'd certainly be easier to and more reliable to use ;)

I've got one set up now to attach directly to a small air compressor so need to shoot some more footage soon and will include tests with nerf ammo. Once it get warmer here 😆

Link to the 40MAX AliExpress store: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003266158341.html They get cheaper if you buy more than 1 at a time :) If you do get one, remember they do need servicing (disassemble and lubing) every 100-or-so shots.

@@unscrupulousmodefiler how do I do the service

@@archiedrury2676 Have a look at this vid for TAGINN shell maintainence (they're very similar to the 40MAX): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TbpH1wJFfLc.html Also, this IMGUR album shows a 40MAX being torn down but I've yet to add any captions to the images: imgur.com/a/jeiO6mO

Yep, it's quite the surprise when you get hit by one! They're been carefully designed to have maximum "squish" on at the tip though, so combined with the large diameter that impact is spread out and doesn't feel all that bad at all. Fun times!

Cool man, love to see what you come up with! What can I help you with?

The air-compressor adapter ideally needs to replicate the fit of a standard spigot on a Green Gas can... In this case it's made from a standard-issue ball-filling attachment that'd come with pretty much any pump or compressor, but with the addition of an aluminium sleeve slid over the attachment's tube to fatten it out so it can seal more closely to the inlet valve (more below👇👇) See picture and more explaination on Imgur here: imgur.com/BGGYCnj A small o-ring is slid onto the spigot first to provide a seal between the bottom of the aluminium tube and the spigot's base, so when you push everything into the inlet valve everything holds together well enough to reach the (nominal) 150psi limit that the compressor can achieve. It's a bit leaky and not 100% reliable, but for the most part it works. Stand by though; I've just got a ø6.0x0.75mm tap and die set so I should be able to convert a bicycle tire's Schrader valve to replace the 40MAX's inlet valve. Will let you know how it works, but hopefully it should eliminate any leaks so we can get the most out of the tiny little compressor, plus get an accurate reading of the air pressure it can achieve.

@@unscrupulousmodefiler thank you so much, I will try it

@@supersmashbrosevil Cool! Let us know how it works for you.

It's old news, but setting the scene for the next big push to get the blaster up and firing 😅

Looking promising, yeah! 😃 I've tried it with an additional ø60mm stress-ball between the spring and the "darts" to seal the breech after the last shot as you suggested and it does seem to even out the blast each shot receives. I removed it for this test though as there's not really enough room in the Pringle mag-tube with 3 rounds as well (you can hear the characteristic "FOOOOOM! with the last shot. I nudged the aim a couple of degrees lower there and it hit at about the same height.) New, longer (2 x beer-can 😆 ) mag-tube inbound, along with over-volted compressor, plus I now have all the switch-gear now to make it fully automated between semi-auto shots. Whoot!

@@unscrupulousmodefiler hahahah I must have been intoxicated somehow when I gave you those pointers because I cant remember… trully I cant 😂. I am stoked for you the setup is working!

Thanks :) Got the perfect housing for it laid out it and the new compressor I'm playing with should maybe double the speed of the cycling up between shots and get rid of that annying Brrrrrrrrrrt! too... Stay tooned!

Full-length MXL darts hover around the 6.0gm mark. Halving the foam-length to make these half-darts brings it down by about 0.5-0.6gm.

Added an old re-purposed 35mm film canister: imgur.com/a/bkF9X3T

It's all about that inner sleeve... 100% air seal (enough that taking it off the spigot manually will almost suck the sleeve out of the bore) means compared to foam alone it's able to use a much bigger proportion of the boot that it's getting from the SPEXBZ 😃