I get it people dislike the Evo x,but you just revived and saved it from the junk yard,that legend car Great job perks of knowing what you do Enjoy it 190,000 means they reliable
The intake tube to the turbo is pretty easy to remove. You have to use a flat head on the clamp that connects to the box. The box itself I believe pops off some rubber grommets and pulls out(double check on this because mine is missing the rubbers). After that you just have to unplug the MAF, the pcv hose, and then use a flat head on where the intake tube connects to the turbo
Theres a drain bolt for the tank. The new aftermarket one doesn't have it, but if you want to make it like factory, you can drill a hole and re thread it for the bolt, if you're brave enough lol. I would also suggest spraying some rust protector for the new tank so you dont have to worry about it doing the same thing down the road. I'm going through this with my 97 dx hatch. They still sell the oe strap stud holders that slot into the rear crossmember with the nuts and washers and the front strap bolts as well 👍
Thank you for making this video, finally somebody put something on RU-vid to show us how the turbo comes off these cars. I have a red one as you can see. My turbo is doing fine, just wanted to see how it comes off. I assumed it had to be dropped from underneath. I do have a question about the downpipe: Does the other end of the downpipe bolt to the side of the turbo where the exhaust gas comes out? I just cannot picture this in my head on how the downpipe turns 45 degrees to bolt up to the exhaust underneath the car. I am talking about the side of the downpipe that has the 4 bolt holes, and not the side where there are 3. Am I missing something? Is there like a 45 degree part not shown in the video? The heat shield is on my car so I cannot look to reveal how the downpipe is positioned. Any clarification would be greatly appreciated. Good job by the way on accomplishing this. Now put that car back together and give it a nice shine. Thanks again. Cheers!
@@Gilligan.Garage Hey sorry it took so long to reply:) I now see what you are talking about I went out to my car and I see the o2 housing you were talking about. Now it all makes sense. Hopefully I will not have to mess with my turbo, so far my car is running strong at 169,000 miles on the body and trans, and 32,000 miles on the second engine that went in it. The original engine lasted 1 year after I bought my car:( Turns out I bought my car with a bad head gasket and never knew it. $4,000 dollars later and a whole week without my car, it is now fixed and runs properly,. Hey if you make more videos about your car, I would love to see:) it was nice chatting. Thanks again.🙂
Did you need to get a different alternator because it was hitting the radiator or did you need more amps for the fan? Also curious what filler neck you used.
Yeah i got an alternator off a base rsx which changed where the alternator plug was. The filler neck was one i found in a forum post. I cant find the part number unfortunately
Own a 2008 SS just want to offer you a couple of advise: Try your best to use ONLY premium gas from TOP TIER gas stations. It will run on low grade but it doesn't like it. You'll hear some engine noise. Keep an eye on the oil. If it's burning oil try adding the STP Synthetic Oil Treatment (yellow bottle) at oil change. This fixed the slight oil burning issue for me. I really enjoy driving it. The Automatic is not the fastest from the get go (a bit heavy) but when it's going it's hard to beat it. The other thing is the throttle response is very laggy and to fix that I got the Pedal Commander and set it to City +4 for normal driving. Works well. It's a very reliable car. Fun to drive.
Highly recommended to get a pro custom tune from Edge Auto, adaptx, and other top EcoBoost tuners for the reliability and longevity of your motor. OTS tunes will kill motors...
Im planning to do a K20 swap on my 1st gen integra. Quick question. In your current setup does it have power steering and A/C? If not does it have enough space to mount a P/S pump and the A/C compressor?
No power steering as crx’s did not come with it in America i don’t believe. I am going to be adding AC. The crx headlight bucket needs to be trimmed to do that.
Great video, I just ordrdered the same mounts for my EF civic. Just wondering..what coil overs did you install that ride very poorly? I want to avoid buying them
I has the blox coilovers, the issue with them was they were more designed for a 92+ civic. For the crx you need to buy coilovers specifically designed for the chassis or else they will not lower the car unless you fully max them out
Can you make a video pointing out electrical connections and where they plug into? Also vacuum lines. I’m almost done with my VR4 but I want to make sure everything is plugged in correctly and no one has a video. Thanks awesome content.
I unfortunately do not have the car anymore, it was a customers. There are a good bit of diagrams in the dsm tuners forms. They should have one you need
@Gilligan.Garage sorry read that wrong possible could be rip it out and put act clutch in much lighter clutch the oem and if I was in America I would have swapped bonnets with you but being uk bit difficult lol
