I’m doing it, I bought 75lbs of activated alumina - info is scarce about it, so I’m rewatching this and other vids talking about it. I’m using 3D printed canisters as cores for every spool to go from storage cabinet or food saver bags to dry box or ams - and I’m going to keep an eye on the RH in the cabinet, bags, dryboxes and ams’ with mini hygrometers and see when it starts to wear out and then dump and recharge it all en masse, still gotta figure out the time in the oven and how long the AA will last.
I am making a football field charcuterie board. Had to paint (water based) wood green, use white acrylic pen to draw lines on field, use vinal numbers for yard markers, peel off decals for football team logos…DEATHLY afraid to pour resin over board because so many different surfaces the resin must attach. Perhaps, covering it with varnish first would provide single surface that to which resin would attach. What do you think?
I really enjoyed this video and contemplated both your DIY tubes and the tea strainers, but in the end decided on an even more convoluted scheme of buying Eva-Dry E-500's and upgrading them to alumina so I wouldn't need to recharge it in an oven, then cutting the vents open and using your steel mesh and JB Weld technique to keep the alumina from falling out. Thank you for the inspiration!
I have 12 silica gel bead containers in my filament cabinet and they kept it around 19% RH but once spring and summer rolled around I can’t keep it below 45% - it’s driving me crazy, I keep refilling and recharging the desiccant in the microwave every week because they turn color so fast, need something better asap
One tip: If you're using abrasive filaments like carbon fiber nylon, you might want to swap out the PTFE tube every so often, maybe once a year. Markforged has a drybox very similar to this without the humidity sensor, and the PTFE tube they use is a consumable item because Onyx is an abrasive filament.
West3D Undertaker Tungsten Carbide nozzle is a much better choise than hardened steel, many many times harder and almost identical thermal properties as brass to get a good melt. Also it is a 1-piece nozzle unlike ruby nozzles which is a piece of ruby embedded in brass. I am not affiliated with them i just really think these nozzles are great, ive pushed almost 10kg of ASA-CF through one and its still like new.
You could probably whip up that retaining clip in PrusaSlicer and all derivatives with geometric primitives. Activated alumina... I'll have to remember that. I know MarkForged ships packets of non-silica desiccant with their filaments, and I don't remember which one they used.
I use colour indicating silica beads in small, round, perforated tin screw cap containers. Throw two of the tins in with the filament, drop in a small humidistat, suck out the extra air, and I'm good to go. As soon as the humidistat reads anything above 15%, the tins and the filament go into my dehydrator. Been running like that for a while and it works well.
How did you manage to get 70 cut sheets from the foam quantity listed in your supplies needed if you cut them in half? I understand you said you salvaged some from under your pool, but why not give an accurate “supplies needed”? when it’s all said and done, that a $120-$130 target.
I stopped using silica a while ago. It's ok for long term storage but it really doesn't have the oomph needed to pull enough moisture. I prefer calcium chloride. I get a 2 pack of desiccants from the dollar store for $3 and each one lasts about 6 months. I have put a new spool inside an airtight container with the calcium chloride, put the lid on and just left it at room temp for a few days. NOTICEABLY drier with zero electricity needed. Granted if you employ a little heat things dry up even better. I'm happy to wait for filament to dry and I do not need it available immediately. The best part is that once the calcium chloride fully dissolves and stops working I can drain the desiccant packs into a pyrex dish and pop it into the oven when I cook. It'll dry out to a crust which I can then put back into the pack and reuse.
The way moisture is absorbed into the polymer is not unlike how cooked long-grain rice "crystallizes" as it cools. Long story short, it is always a good idea to heat up the polymer to "eject" the absorbed and incorporated water.
Thanks for this video. Great tip regarding use of filament dryers directly feeding the printer. Also, thanks for the heads-up about not really needing an enclosure. I'm leaning toward a Bambu A1, and your Amazon solution means I don't need to shell out the big bucks for an enclosed P1S, although I might buy a $50 grow tent to replace the cardboard someday lol. Oh, one other thing, in case you ever make a follow-up video, Nylon is a brand name, the actual material is Polyamide or PA, IIRC, so you might get more RU-vid search hits if you put "PA/Nylon" in your title next time. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for sharing this information .Also I came across this video about cancer causing by MDF . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7kMNCWrnEfs.htmlsi=-VUP9FLz3XZcP-xJ
don't touch your brake light bulbs, use a paper towel. That is a manufacturer's recommendation as the sweat and sebaceous materials on your fingers degrades the bulbs. Use a paper towel or clean rag. what about the rotational sensors? Aren't they failure prone?
great build but you have the sizes wrong as in your plans you have 2x 1100 when it should be1x 1100 then 1x 1082 or you will have a side that slopes 18 ml out as orcording to your build
The other issue is that MDF dulls blades and bits FAST. Penny smart and pound foolish, imho. Better economy can be had by selecting framing lumber to shape with a table saw and router imho.
Try a larger tire such as a used truck tire or fat machinery tire for rocks. If you can find a logger, their tires are super wide and not terribly large in diameter.
Ok, this tool look game changer. This is so cool to see how you’ve created it ! I definitely will never be able to do it myself, but if someone what to do it for me, I could buy it 😍
