So you did a Norwegian, followed by a Veldschoen, then cut off the extra leather rather than letting it get stitched down with the midsole and outsole. It looks incredible, but defeats the Norwegian to still have a welt and cavity needing to be filled.
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Wait, why do you use gemming? Norvegese is such a great construction method because it needs neither cork nor gemming and uses only the leather soles. This takes away the main advantage...
its even more strange. if you watch again at 2:33 you can see the actuall norwegese stitch is done with a carved holdfast as it should be. then they use a gemming on top of that for the second row of stitches. i am pretty certain this one is purely decorational.
about the cork: that the use of cork or other filler is worse or less durable than pure leather constructions is imo (at least partly) a myth! this derived from the usage of poor quality materials by bigger manufacturers in goodyearwelted footwear as well as the fact that it is hard to find and determine good filler materials. its true that a layer of leather will last longer than any cork filler, but if you use a good quality sheet cork in a good handmade construction it will last ages and its advantages can outweigh the disadvantages. that said a wool felt filler has the same cushioning and shockabsorbtion properties like cork. but also its super longlasting, breathable, moisture compensating and antibacterial. the perfect filler!
@@klausbecker4745 as you said: leather will last longer so no myth whatsoever. I do agree though that in actuality it will probably not make a difference if done right. I don't know if you own handmade Norvegese shoes but imo I can easily tell that they are more comfortable than all my other shoes. And this does have to do with the construction, the filler not being there of course only being a part of the bigger picture.
@@teekue i call it a myth because its an opinion that has some justification but seems to spread a bit too rigorously among boot lovers in recent years. but not among makers, because most of us know its more difficult than that. if you are a pro yourself and thats your experience, that is perfectly valid and i won't argue it. but, for example the idea of a filler just being there to fill a void with a cheaper material is simply wrong! it can be a science in itself and is a well thought out element of bootmaking. that said, what is more comfortable mostly depends on individual taste. some people dont like any kind of leather soled shoe whatsoever. but those fools aside, comfort most importantly is related to: fit, fit and fit, then its materials and construction. so maybe on your norwegese shoes the last is just right for you. or you personally just enjoy the slightly harder feeling of only leather under your feet. or your other shoes have poor quality fillers or thin inoles - that being a main issue in goodyearwelted footwear! the insole/filler ratio and quality of both. a thinner leather insole is less durable and can take less moisture, which leads to hardening and sometimes curling of the edges. i'm just saying... its complex :)
