My name is Dima and there are three major engineering disciplines I like the most: mechanical, electrical, and software engineering. Join my adventure in the endless land of applied engineering empowered by modern tools and manufacturing capabilities.
I really like the design, it gave me a place to start. The only issue I am working on now is that I need to press fit it in an axel through the hole, so will need to figure a different way to attach the parts. I will likely make the center part a single body instead of the outer ring and figure it out from there (as there is more room in the center of the ring
How about using tiny nedimium magnet. It could hold the pins in place. You ca than move the connection to any part of board snd shoul also allow to better pin layot.
Problem I can see is the pads being so close to that grounded mounting hole opens your design up to shorts if the mounting fastener is the wrong size or shifts slightly or if a washer is used.
Have you considered TPU? I assume it'll interact poorly with the jumper housing but would make the spring effect far easier and more compact, the less stable jumper housings could be mitigated by leaning further into the bent jumper ends, bending them into channels such that the metal jumper heads provide the stability that the PETG did previously while still working as a single print and being more compact whilst providing the same spring effect. This would provide more give in the alignment pin too so you'd likely need to have that at an angle to act kinda like a pair of tweezers with that and the screw under compression to hold it on.
If I were you I would go with a clips design. Think a small clips that sandwiches the corner of board both front and back. It can be slightly spring-ly or not at all. All you need is some notches aligning with the holes. Maybe one side of the clips can have positive cylinder and the corresponding side can have negative cylinder.
I like your programmer idea. I think you over thought it. Your original idea would be fine if it were easy to make and no spring pins. So make it with normal pins soldered into a pcb. Then you have vias (through holes) instead of pads on your target board. Now your alignment pin turns into a spring. Each of the programming pins binds in its own hole providing better contact than spring pins and holds the connector in place.
Very neat video, has me thinking about all sorts of designs. I would imagine the greatest drawback of your current design would be contact forces of the ball bearings deforming/wearing down along their contact paths. I wonder about adding an internal raceway's, perhaps just an O.D. and I.D. to correspond with the balls rolling contact plane, or more to further constrain them. Perhaps with a strip of something with high hardness, and small tolerance, mechanical tubing for instance. Could cut out thin slivers (thick enough to minimally deform from contact stresses, and wide enough to help distribute the normal force along the plastic face) that fit into notches. Basically use 3D printed plastic everywhere except the balls themselves, and small metal or high hardness plastic rings positioned where the balls would contact.
Could you not just rotate the connecteor? With the pons facing to the outside of the board, it will move the hoel inward a smidge but it solves a complicated problem pretty simply :)
Why not use pogo-pins, and with the larger pad size it doesn't matter the exact diameter of the pin. Make a 3D model with a parameter for the hole size, or make the holes very small so they can be drilled out to the needed size based on the pins obtained. Or, use common connecting wires, but rather than 3D printing the spring mechanism, use the spring from a retractable ball-point pen and put it in-line.
this is GENIUS. the only downside i could think of is if a flanged bolt is used to mount the board, it could short the power to ground. but then you just don't use a flanged bolt lol
привет Дим может сделать просто двухсторонний зажим из прищепки или заколки для волос такие бывают. А ещё проще торцевые падики в ряд и по дырочке в плате с каждой стороны ряда, а на коннекторе все пины в один ряд и ты прикладываешь пины к падикам сбоку а два "держательных" пина по краям отгибаешь чтобы впихнуть в дырочки и всё это держится за счёт натяжения примерно как в твоей первой итерации
4:40 going back to this, what if you used a two-piece core to mount the pogo pins instead? So you'd be able to just seat the pogo pins into the main body, clip in the rest of the body over them to lock them in-place, (with them half-exposed on the outside, like the Raspberry Pi Pico's exposed metal contacts) and then you can easily solder the wires onto the pogo pins from the outside. As for latching, I'm not sure if an FDM machine could do it, but what about two plastic-latches on extended stems? (alternatively, if you embedded a small magnet into the design then the "clip" could simply be placing another magnet on the opposite side of the board)
Think of a tiny, fancy, drink umbrella. Now, imagine the paper cover removed. You have a tiny umbrella skeleton. You will be 3D printing this. In the 3D print, print a thin (3mm) bolt for the umbrella's handle. Make pin holders on the ends of the bare clothe rib supports. I think this need not be anything other than a hole in the end of the ribs. The Dupont programming pins will go down, vertically, through these holder holes. Insert the bolt handle vertically through the PCB hole. On one of the holders, insert a non-electrical alignment pin. Align the pins to the pads. Align the alignment pin with its hole. Add a nylon nut to the bolt. Tighten down the nut, by hand (only,) to add pressure on the pins onto the pads. Now, the springy part sort of becomes the jig's body and the rest of the body is sort of eliminated. Hope that makes sense. If it works, please publicly post it (its print files) as open source, give me due credit and send me 10 copies. <grin> Hope it works. Hope it helps. Cheers.
Awesome work, the hobby wires you were talking about are called DuPont terminal connectors. It was really nice to see all the work and attention to detail, and looking forward to more!
By far the best explanation of quaternions Spent a month looking and learning about it on different RU-vid videos, even the 3blue1brown. No history lessons, no gimble lock. straight to the point. Keep up the SIMPLE and BEST video.
Thank you! I can do that. But honestly it is in a poor shape. Not documented at all, has mistakes and quite sketchy in general. This was more like a prototype to test the idea and learn possible issues. I am working on a new version that will be better and also it 100% will be shared (need to assemble boards, re-write software a bit and test). Let me know if you still don't want to wait for the next version and want to take a look at this project.
@@Positive_Altitude I really would like to look at it with all the mistakes and so on. When the next video comes, I want to see if I could solve those issues or how differently it could be. I want to say that you are really nice person. I wish that your channel goes all the way up. :) Have a great day and make so many good project.
I've been dealing with this for 25 years. Just use a row of 5 holes, SIL spaced at 0.1". Then the connector you use a row of SIL pins, get the long reach pins about 1" long, and bend a couple of the pins a little bit. The bent pins hold it in place with the spring tension of the long pins themselves, plenty secure enough for program/verify operation. You can put the holes anywhere on the PCB, and even stack them as 2x3 etc they dont have to be one line. They also make ideal probe points later for multimeter or scope testing.
1. I would use the male pins with their housing. 2. Insert them in flexible holders in the body. 3. Prepare matching holes with traces to the required signals in the PCB around the center. 4. Compress the pins so they align with the holes, insert them then release them so they make contact and hold the fixture. This can be made smaller and can waste no PCB area.
While I do like the design, I think you've pidgeon-holed yourself with your initial decisions, i.e. the choice of reusing the corner screw hole. IMO, the answer has been there all along - it's "DIY electronics" and PCBs, which means that one can make initial provisions that would make for a simpler and more useful end design. For example: you disregarded the edge-aligned/based type of a fastener on account of that your previous motor project would not be able to accomodate it. But _you_ control & _can_ acommodate _it_ (a different debug connector) in yoir future board revision! :) For example, for the board edge kind, a simple 2-3 milimeter deep inset region along one edge of the PCB would be enough to accomodate a lower "jaw" that would lay below the PCB. On the PCB - contacts. As part of the debug connector: ordinary pins glued together (assuming original commector casing, or alternate) and tensioned towards the jaw via any kind of various means. And bonus: keep the steel pin, just offset it a bit deeper into the PCB, past the contacts, as a stabilizer and position lock. Alternative, simpler solution: Instead of pads, use those cuttable round-holed IC row socket holders. Connector? Laterally spread-out regular connectors with some sort of locking mechanism (tiny metal jaws that lodge under the plastic of the IC row connectors?) All this avoids the use of the unreasonably expensive pogo pins... although, when used on the probing connector, cost isn't really that much of an issue.
I like your comment. Indeed I locked myself too much to some decisions. The initial idea of reusing the mounting hole looks great, but actually it creates some constraints to the board design: there should be a hole, the connector should be located where the mounting point is. I wanted to make the connector very small and flexible, so it could be used in any design and now I see that these decisions actually act against it. There were few eye opening comments like yours and some other. I will try to make the following versions quite different and hopefully much better.
@@Positive_Altitude Just don't take it too hard on yourself... it's a learning experience, and we've all been there. (For example, I'm currently quite self-screwed on account of choosing to go with classic Arduino (i.e. 5 V main rail) in my project, since all other sensors I was retrofitting were already 5V... but the project (and code) hit the ATMega328p's limits, and now I need to re-do tons of wiring, add level-shifters, re-do a case... Luckily, it's just a private project (and I probably applied plenty of feature creep that I find hard to quit). Alas - to the redrawing desk! :)
I think if you have well-calibrated filament (flow rate, pressure advance, retracts, etc) even the regular seams could be quite nice. I tried scarf seams -- not a big difference, so I don't do it right now.
The left and right side are connected through a differential mechanism. Mars rovers usually use differential bars, but I used differential gears instead. So I have a differential inside (like in car transmission) and the body is connected to this differential through a worm gear. Here I am spinning the worm gear by hand and tilt the body relative to the differential. I will make an overview of this suspension in one of my next videos. :)
this is really cool! the “jamming a metal rod against the side of a hole” mechanism reminds me a lot of the old woodworking tool called a “hold-fast”, which is basically a ?-shaped rod of metal (literally shaped like a question mark, can definitely find on youtube) that you hammer to hold a piece of wood in place while you’re working on it. there’s maybe some inspiration there; i’m not sure.
Oh, this is a really cool idea. Honestly this video have popped up a couple of times already, but just skipped thinking you discovered tag connect. But I was completely wrong. Good job!
@@Positive_Altitude q and -q indeed represent the same rotation. However, they do not represent rotations around opposite axes and opposite angles. If you plug -θ and -n into the quaternion formula cos(θ/2) + sin(θ/2) * n, you will find that it is equal to the original quaternion q and not -q: cos(-θ/2) + sin(-θ/2) * (-n) = cos(θ/2) + (-sin(θ/2)) * (-n) = cos(θ/2) + sin(θ/2) * n = q. Instead, they represent the rotation around the same axes but offset by an odd multiple of 2π. So for example, if you rotate 2π or -2π further, you get -q, and if you rotate 4π or -4π further, you get q again. This is because of the half angle in the quaternion formula: cos(θ/2) + sin(θ/2) * n. Imagine you gradually increase the angle θ, once it reaches 2π you are on the opposite side of the hypersphere (cos(2π/2) = cos(π)) and then increasing it further until 4π gets you back to your starting point (cos(4π/2) = cos(2π) = cos(0)). Formally, negating the quaternion q yields (where k is some whole number): -q = -cos(θ/2) - sin(θ/2) * n = cos(θ/2 + (2k + 1) * π) + sin(θ/2 + (2k + 1) * π) * n = cos((θ + (2k + 1) * 2π) / 2) + sin((θ + (2k + 1) * 2π) / 2) * n = cos(θ'/2) + sin(θ'/2) * n where θ' = (θ + (2k + 1) * 2π), so we can see that -q represents the same rotation as q but rotated by another odd multiple of 2π.
I know I'm late to the party, but I liked the first simple solution you used to validate the idea. What if you created just the "head" of the unit and used female connections in it to plug into? You could get rid of the bulk of the wire head-block that takes up a lot of the space. That way the wires are separated too.
How about using your original design, slice off the bottom 1/3 and hard mount the pins to this, use a ring of foam or tpu to join the bottom to the top and act as the spring.
Get rid of the pins, just tin a mm or 2mm of bare wire and model a cup for the wire to sit into on each spring. That would remove the bulk of each pin housing and allow you to bring the angle of the spring inwards a bit. If you’re concerned about longevity you could snip the pins down and solder wire to just the tip.
Can you use a nut on the screw to secure it on the backside? It looks like you would not need to debug/upload software too often, so using the nut should not be too much of an inconvenience? Maybe can even 3D print a nut with thin walls so it doesn't bump into alignment pin.
i'd probably go for an edge base solution, like the pads on an esp32, or if that's too expensive, a clothespin with hotglued wires, akin to a poor mans smd programer clip but on the edge of the board
