DPE is a fuel injection and turbocharger shop located in Savannah, MO. A parts department and drive in service are in operation as well. We will try to share what knowledge we have learned from the diesel world. Any requests are welcome! Call the shop at 8163246680 or email levi@dpefuel.com
I have a Bosch VE pump on a little VW 1.6 that's causing me some grief. I have 2 cylinders, 1 and 4, that aren't getting enough or no fuel at idle. Could this be an issue with delivery valves or something more internal? If I crack those 2 lines at the injectors while the engine is running, it doesn't change the idle at all. If I crack the other 2, the engine stumbles, as it should
Hello, thanks so much for the video ! Greatly appreciated. Just wondering what brand would you recommend for the centre section of the high pressure turbo. Thanks
Awesome video dude! I got some bad fuel and it rusted out my fuel filter sending all that rust through my pump. What wear part would cause a no start once hot? as soon as you cool the pump off with water it starts right up. I have the pump apart, everything looks great, I was thinking a worn cam plate but it looks okay, I haven't measured though
@@Mr.Harescramble typically a hard start when hot is a bad head and rotor they can look totally fine and still fail. If you get me a pump number I can look up pricing and availability for you
They can. The fuel solenoids go bad with fuel contamination and can cause erratic fueling. The high pressure outlets have issues too which could cause a miss.
Some people have done that by sliding the head out just far enough to get the oring off and the new one on, but you run the risk of some internal pieces falling out of place when you do that.
Hey Levi.. great video… I’m working on several Bosch VE pumps (for VW TDI engines).. I’m using Cerakote C-110 MicroSlick on internal parts, it will add 0.0005” to worn parts, then I’ll tear down to check everything after 100k miles
Good stuff. Thanks for the run down. Id be interested to know specifically about what is changed in VE type rotary pumps to cater for running waste veg oil. Plus injector tip sizes and any changes done to them. My motor is n/a Toyota 1HZ. Its a niche area and difficult to find much insightful information on. I’m sure myself and others in our groups would very much appreciate. Thank you
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering Thanks will look it up but not sure in Australia. I’ve put waste veg oil through the pump starting cold on wvo and stopping on a ve pump full wvo. Not purging with diesel in hindsight should have plus better filtering! Only did 3000 kilometres. Brand new china copy ve pump. It looks putrid inside from bad oil or rust, water etc. What do you think is likely needing repair. Learning about this and not sure really what to do. Its in 100 peaces atm same as this video. The veins in the front pump part are really clogged up maybe its that. But its putrid brown rust sticky looking on all metal peaces! Its cleaning off pretty easy though. Im thinking of building some sort of crude homemade test bench at home too. I ordered a new head and rotary ali express. China again! Hard to work out where to get a coupler thing for it!? Ive got a three phase electric motor that might spin it with s VFD. Do you have other videos on how to determine what is wrong and right with the ve pumps? How do you figure out what’s wrong so know what to fix??
@@jaffasoft8976 to figure out if everything is running right you need a test stand with injectors, advance gauge, transfer pump gauge, boost control, and overflow measuring capabilities.
@@DieselPerformanceEngineering cool, i know what the advance gauge is! What’s the others. Its a bit noisy when watching any others vid the test bench is running and usually in a languages cant hear or understand. Have you done a run through video explaining what is going on during the test bench process with the different gauges. Most videos i see around are in a different language and can not follow. I just got me VE pump out the ultrasonic cleaner. It looks cleaned up pretty good with s tooth brush scrubbing all the parts. I will start assembling today. I have ordered some CC diesel cc volume measuring tubes and 6, 800mm lines to connect to pump. Finding a coupler for the VE pump to join the electric motor is bit tricky. Not sure where to buy an adapter as ve pump is slightly angled where it slides on the spline and woodruf key!? Not even sure how the adapter works never seen a video up close explaining how it bolts the ve pump on so it can spin it.
Hi Levi, I have a CAV DPS pump that is weeping fuel from the large O ring around the hydraulic head, in your opinion, would it be possible for me to renew this O ring by easing the head out just far enough to access the O ring, without upsetting the calibration of the pump and without parts falling out of place? I've rebuilt the old CAV BPF inline pumps before but not had much to do with the distributor pumps apart from re-bushing the control lever spindle in the top cover and changing the driveshaft oil seal. It looks like I can access the O ring by removing the metering valve, advance retard device, and the three retaining bolts for the hydraulic head. It's a 4 cylinder pump so the hydraulic head is the same diameter at both ends, by removing the delivery valves from the periphery of the head I could slide the new O ring over without stretching it. The pump is operating perfectly apart from this annoying weep of fuel. Thanks in advance, Mark.
Nice video. I have done a rebuild by my own pump. But now it runs hi rpm. An have no respons on the gas. Do you have you any idea what the problem can bee? Im not sure the covener shaft / fly weeli s in the same spot. Can that bee the problem? Hope you can give me some tips?
That can affect your advance on certain pumps but not your governor as far as I know. I would make sure everything in your governor looks right and then I'd make sure your fuel screw is in the same place. Fulcrum lever would be my next suspicion
Thanx for the quick response. I'm gone give the pump a new look. Maybe i do something wrong. What do you mean with the advange ? And the fulcrum levler is that the thing were the cable is fixt? Im from Holland and try to understand.
Message me or call the shop with the pump number and I can get you a Bosch line. The number will be something like 0460426397 and stamped on the aluminum housing. Shop number is 8163246680
Nice detailed video mate!, I'm wondering if its possible to remove just the head (the black thing on the end) with the pump still on the engine and replace just the leaking o ring? I don't really want to do a complete tear down of my pump if I can avoid it.
You can, I've heard of people doing it. The correct way to take it apart and put it back together is in the vertical position according to Bosch to keep your springs, rods, etc from getting misaligned.
Thanks for the electronic sender presure activated timmig thru volume sensitve clearance of a clear fluid/emitting boiling point thru a viscosity and spark resitant cavity.fire conrol negated to a non destructive sample via a glycol non acidic,alkaline 🪟 base.windows removed for demonstration purpose only. Iv seen worked on educated on injection back in the early 70s. Lol just great to see companies going all out.😅
