Nice easy to follow video. I didn't know you could use “S” fluid in place of “J” you confirmed it, thanks. I notice your airbag light doesn’t blink, would you be interested in doing a video on how to fix a blinking airbag light, not where you turn the ignition key off and on 4 to 6x’s to reset that doesn’t work. Thanks
Great vid thx! So I'm getting 5 volts at hi side sensor and 12 at low side . But clutch still don't engage when jumped like you do in this video. New compressor and clutch last year. Fuses and relays are good. Any ideas?
my 05 350z at 114k miles auto trans fluid was prob never changed before, it started shifting so slow and super rough at 3rd and 4th, sometimes wouldnt shift to 5th on the highway. really scary just having 4th gear on a highway going 65+ mph and youre already at 4k rpms, shift slips at 4th gear after cold start, manual mode didnt work and it was just bad after driving on a cold start. i did a drain and fill with 4 1/2 quarts with oem nissan trans fluid from the dealer and shifts are remarkably smoother, 2-3 shift is not as grabby and 5th gear works!! the trans fluid didnt look burnt or black it was brown/pinkish. thanks for the video it helps a lot!
I have a 2006 FX45 that Im wanting to do a drain and fill. It has the 5 speed, and I was wondering if your Infiniti has the same 5 speed transmission. Thanks. 😊
I’m frankly not sure, but I believe the G35 and 350z shared drivetrain with the FX35, thus making them likely different. However, I would suspect the process to be similar.
I know this is dumb but where did you get your radiator from, I’ve been looking at RockAuto but just wanna do more research and not get a bad brand that made these.
Not dumb at all. I got mine through Amazon, and it appeared about the same quality as the OEM that I took out. I figure if the original lasted over 200k miles, I’m okay with that.
So my 06 f150 has an entire new ac system ive replaced everything but the evaporator core. I vaccumed down the system for 45 minutes filled with r134a the ac does work but its not right its doing the same thing it always has. You start the truck and the ac is kinda cool you start driving and boom ac is amazing then it will idle with cold ac shut off truck start again ac is just cool again. Hook up gauges and during idle im getting 370psi high side and 45 psi low. If i leave it idling and rev engine while blowing air across the condensor to simulate driving it will randomly drop high side from 370psi down to 220 psi and its works perfect what the hell is going on im stumped
1. Did you jack up your car or were you able to drain atf without jacking it up? 2. Did you warm up atf before opening the drain bolt? 3. How much quarts of old atf came out?
You’re right. I work in real estate and that’s what we’ve seen for a couple years now. Especially including concrete, trusses every 4 feet, etc. Thanks for watching.
Have you checked your blend door? I had to replace mine a few years ago. They’re $25 for a kit. Mine was blowing warm air all the time prior to the fix.
Would this be a problem when a compressor kicks on for 3 sec, shuts off, kicks back on in 15 sec for another 3 sec, shuts off, and continues this cycle? I just replaced my ac system because of this and it's still doing this. Now getting into electrical stuff.
I would certainly recommend completing a drain and fill procedure, preferably three spaced between 2,500-10,000 miles. Your transmission fluid should be bright red.
I have one of those. A 99. I use it to haul my kayak to and from the lake and goof around the neighborhood. It always needs choke even if it has just ran if you want it to start in one bump. Enjoy!
the lowest quotes i was getting in early 2024 were in the $65k range in ohio, with one coming in at $95k for a 30x40x16 with 2 14x12 garage doors and a 10 foot lean on one side. the prices have literally doubled over a couple years.
No doubt. Hate that yours were so high. My uncle was quoted around $20k just for a lean to on his 40x60. I naively thought I could build my shop for $35k or so when I set out. My head was stuck in 2019 prices! Thanks for watching.
That’s a tough one. Personally, I’d put the tools down and wait for the replacement ignition. Or, I’ve had good luck with having a locksmith make a replacement key. You can also take your VIN to a Kawasaki dealer and they should be able to cut a new key. They may require proof of ownership. Thanks for watching!
Good question! The transmission has a lifetime filter screen in it. Just a drain and fill will be fine. For reference, mine has almost 220k miles and the transmission has never been opened. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I replaced mine yesterday. You saved me lots of time. Your car looks to be in great shape. Mine has 245k but starting to look a little rough. Still runs good though. Subscribed! Keep up the good work!
It’s now March 2024 and in Lincoln, NE that building would be at least 50% higher or more. 40 x 40 without concrete, insulation or any doors is over $30,000.
Found your video among others for this job. Thank you! I bought a Denso radiator from Amazon for my 6sp coupe. I also bought OEM upper and lower hoses, clamps and thermostat from Z1. The radiator is 97% in it’s just missing the lower posts by a few mm. Ran out of time this afternoon but will attempt again next free chance I get. There’s good hand space it’s just the feet or posts are sorta tough. Maybe it’s the Denso radiator but the AC condenser sat on their posts perfectly… I’m hoping there’s no difference between automatic and manual radiators…
Awesome, I hope it helped you! The main difference between the auto and manual radiators is the automatic has a transmission cooler integrated. I don’t believe the manual ones have that. As long as the one you bought is the same as the one you took out, you should be home free. Thanks for watching 🤙🏻
@@PhilipCurrier1 it doesn’t matter if you have a manual. I bought the “automatic” Denso radiator on Amazon and you simply do not use the lower ports that cool ATF. They remain plugged. The Denso fit inch perfect! Just angle it correctly and take your time. You’ll see what I mean
@@PhilipCurrier1 they are simply little tiny outlet flanges. I left the little rubber nipples on. They will probably fall off during driving but doood I’m telling you the Denso radiator fits perfectly and is built really well for what you pay. Just use ittttt lolz insane bruh…
Question, I had a shop perform a transmission oil change. I did not know that it had to be done with OEM fluids. I am not sure what they used but I am willing to bet it wasn’t OEM. Car has 58k what should I do?
Hey there. I am assuming you have an automatic transmission. I would check with the shop and see what oil they used for your swap. Not that other oils cannot be used successfully, but I generally recommend OEM fluid when it comes to transmissions and other high-cost wear items. Your car has such low miles that I would have the fluid replaced with OEM and then complete a fluid drain/fill every 25-30k. Thanks for watching!
@@DoWittGarage I appreciate the response here. Love your videos BTW. And yes, its a AT. So the shop used LiquiMoly ATF 1800. I checked the website and it is compatible with all vehicles that require Matic-S. I called 3 dealers and keep getting mixed responses. One dealer is recommending a full flush. The other is recommending a drain/refill twice. This will help the aftermarket fluid flush out. While the other is recommending just one drain/refill. I am concerned with a full flsuh which doesn't sound healthy and also concerned with having two different fluid in my transmission with just a drain/refill. I am at a loss and don't know what to do next. I don't mind spending the money to get it done right. It doesn't seem like anyone knows hat right is. I would appreciate your insight!
I appreciate you tuning in! LiquiMoly is a high quality product, however, our transmissions are picky about their fluid. Nearly all research I’ve done recommends using only OEM Matic-S. For your situation, the only way to remove all of the old fluid and replace with new is through a full transmission flush, as recommended by one of the dealers you called. One or two drain and fills will only dilute the LiquiMoly and new fluid. Since your transmission only has 58k miles, a flush should be just fine. Then, subsequent drain and fills every 25-30k miles for the life of the car.
The building is engineered to local wind codes. We’ve had 70 mph+ gusts since it was built and of course, no issues. Not sure many structures fare well against tornadoes, regardless of how well they are built. Thanks for watching.
