I'm a Greater Toronto Ontario Canada Region Photographer and I created this channel as a way to give back to photography by helping others through my knowledge and experience. Although the photography equipment in my channel focuses on the Pentax brand, there is still general knowledge within my channel for all budding photographers.
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Another issue I have had (and that seems to have "cured itself"). I had a Lexar 128 1667 SDii card that was approaching being full (say 40 or 50 shots short of being full) in my K3iii. When I pushed the replay or preview button to view my photo it occasionally wouldn't display but seemed to clear its head when I switched the camera off and back on again. I replaced the almost full card with a new Sandisk 128 and haven't had an issue since. Could the previous SD card be "too full" for the camera ? I know that sounds a bit daft but it's the only reason I can think of, like a hard drive on a computer that is struggling to read/write? It seems to have been resolved with the new card but any ideas Kobe?> (you're the IT guy so ... :P )
This man goes out of his way to help. He helped me how to setup wifi Commander for Tethering when I was totally lost. Two problems for your help. 1) how to set AE-L button for wifi? 2) Can I use a button in Sfn or fx to use Timer, because I often need it. Thanks.
Kobie , on that auto compensation "on" setting is there anyway to stick that on an fx button for quick access when you see blinking red warning rather than stopping and going into the menu to turn it from off to on. I would think you'd want to see the warning first but should you always set it to "on"?
@@alkrevit4755 No, there's no way to assign it to a button since it's what's known as a "global" setting. You'll still get the red warning so you have the opportunity to change settings, but if you don't change the settings, the camera will compensate for you.
@@KobieMC So, that would seem to be an argument for setting it globally in the "on"" position? But then, the camera might change a setting say shutter speed, and you end with exposure right but a blurry pic, for exp.
Great tips! My issue that drove me nuts was a day of shooting and the slot 1 card (RAW) was empty. The camera was set for RAW on 1, JPG on 2 which is my norm. The switch on the slot 1 card was in unlock. WTF? Turns out the switch was broken. However you flipped it, it could not write. Moral: always verify your cards! I always periodically review the shots on the camera back, but that did not reveal no writing to card 1, I was seeing the JPG. A test format is the only way to be sure!
I would like to ask why you chose Pentax K-3 III and not K-1 II? Why not full frame. Why is K-3 better? This topic is probably suitable for an episode.
@@donkey3081 I think what you're looking to do, would be done by using the "link Exposure to Focus point" option in the menu. This will bias the exposure directly to the focus point being used.
@kobie: as I requested. Please write down each step for connecting camera with the software in sequence. It would be great help for all other users. You have been of great help through your other videos.... I tried 5 times, but failed. Didn't have any problem with ImageSync connection both in my iPhone and iPad. But I want connection with laptop. Is wificommander better than ImageSync? In what ways? Thanks.
This seems to be more of a computer issue than a WiFi commander issue. The exact steps in the video is what I did in real time. Are you running 3rd party antivirus software? You might have to add wifi commander to the "safe list" within your antivirus software. Another thing you can try is, right click the software icon, left click on properties and check if its "blocked". If it is, click on the checkbox "unblock". If there's no option for unblock (the software isn't blocked) then exit the properties, right click the icon, now left click on "run as administrator" and see if that helps. If not, right click the icon, go to properties, look for "compatibility" mode and select a previous version of Windows (Windows 10 if you're on 11, or try 8, 7 (seven usually works for everything).
WiFi Commander is different than image sync. It has more features but you need a windows based device for it to work which may not be as convenient as just pulling out your phone and running image sync. It depends on the use case. Studio shots, astro where you won't be moving, or other "stay in place" shooting, just due to the amount of shooting modes in wifi commander, I would use it over image sync. However, if you're out and about (hiking through a trail) then image sync would be a better fit. They (image sync and wifi commander) cover different situations.
- Pc laptop / windows 10 / NO AV. - successfully get my Pentax camera in laptop wifi / type the pw for connection - wificommander opens fine / but fails to connect after repeated attempt. - No idea what else to do? Thanks
- mine is laptop with windows 10. - Primarily for studio work with tripod and lights. - Primarly for Stack Focusing. - ideally I think wificommander would be better option but it doesn't work for me. - Can ImageSync meet my need? - Thanks
Spent good amount of time connecting my camera Pentax K3 iii with the software. Though there was no problem connecting with Pentax Image Sync. Any help. Thanks
1. My Camera / menu/ wireless LAN/ ON/gave me Pentax ssid & pw. 2. Opened wifi commander 3. On my laptop wireless, got the connection for Pentax / typed PW as security code / waited few minutes but Failed to connect tried 5 times but of no use 4. Image Sync by Pentax had no problem connecting my iPhone and iPad. Thanks
The moment I connect camera with laptop by cable, wifi connection disappears. It means program becomes useless. Earlier I tried many times without cable (after all it is wifi) camera doesn't connect with program. It will be great help for every user if you clearly spell out each steps. Thanks
Oh for a 100 macro PLM AW. What is find the 35 macro great at is just a walk around lens on vacation. Great for people, street, outdoors and if you find a great flower no problem. It is great at colors and sharpness. The same for the 50 macro, but I just love macro…
Does it work with PK3 iii + Monochrome. Thanks for letting us know about this important software and making this video....Ricoh/Pentax is really extremely disappointing. As there are many well known Tethering softwares for almost 250 cameras but not for Pentax... This software is an exception. I will love to donate the creator, but first I have to try it. Thanks.
Great video! So true. In my insect macro I found that if I take enough shots of bee faces a few will look like they're smiling. They're moving around so much, it's usually not possible to compose those shots. I just try to be aware of the background and compose that, while taking a zillion shots. You should add a hoodie with just the logo, no text, to your merch shop!
In our modern world of instant gratification, patience is so rarely practiced. It is sometimes better to not pick up the camera but to observe an animals behavior for a while. This can give you insights to it's pattern of movement and it's zone of comfort in regards to your presence. Example: you have good luck in getting images of Red Wing Blackbirds. It took me almost 4 months to finally get a shot of one that insists on hiding deep within the branches of my neighbors tree. I can clearly hear him but it wasn't until today that I actually got a few shots of him.
Kobie Yesterday I was walking to the park (I am walking 2 miles per day for recovery) I wife spotted a bird perched on a branch I had the K3- Mark 111 with me and the 55 - 300 PlLM with me I quickly photographed the bird it is a rarity a South American Pin Tailed Windom I photographed one 3 years ago and not seen one since. The tail on the Male during mating season grows to 2 feet long and looks like 2 black ribbons hanging off the back of the bird. I would equate this to your picture of the Snow Owl you photographed as the Windom is a rarity
My main thing is insect macro, and my advice: try a larger diffuser. Even a super-cheap one. I'm using the the Pentax 100mm macro with a Godox V860 but when I've used a cheap Metz flash I get the same results (just with longer recharge time... <3 godox V-series) Even with the "overkill" double diffuser you might still be a bit small in diffuser size for good insect macro. Also, I use the Godox at 1/4th manual, because for insects IME recharge time is the most important thing because the keeper rate will be low. TTL mode gives great results, but then you get a lot of frames without flash which are useless anyway. The only thing I change in insect macro for different conditions is the ISO. Try it! :)
Kobie, you mentioned at the start of the video that you have been using the 150-450 mm lens recently. I just purchased the K3 111 with the 55-300 plm. I like the focus speed of this combo. However I will be driving from Brantford to Victoria BC at the end of September and will be using the camera at every opportunity for wildlife photography. I am looking at the 150-450 for the extra reach or the 300mm f4 with the 1.4 TC. How do you find the image quality with the 150-450? I can't remember if you have ever mentioned using the 300mm with the 1.4 TC.
I haven't had the chance (yet) to use the 300 F/4. 55-300 PLM isn't that great with the 1.4x teleconverter. The 150-450 image quality is way above the 55-300 PLM. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-azFy9KREw24.htmlsi=2YJox6PF451YNxC3
Thanks for the video. Everything works great but the data is missing, camera settings, GPS, etc when I download. Have checked the phone that all permissions are on. Any other suggestions. The GPS info that is coming from the phone.?
@@brienthomson8916 Are you say g the data, once transfered to your phone is missing? The phone won't show GPS location (at least mine doesn't). I can get shot info if I go into the image details option though. The GPS data gets sent from the phone to the camera. The phone doesn't record the info, the camera does. If you use an editor on the computer that can show GPS coordinates, it'll show up in the exif data panel.
@@KobieMC Yes the info has been recorded when viewed in Lightroom. No shot info in the image details. The info layout appears but no data. I am using an android phone and installed image sync on my android tablet with the same result. Maybe just one of those mystery of life
@@brienthomson8916 I'm not sure if either of those will show metadata from photos not taken by the device itself. My phone has a gallery that gets gets created from image sync photos which retain the data including the location.
I use auto. Panning mode is supposed to be for slower shutter speeds/slower moving subjects, say, a person on a bicycle in the city, that sort of thing.
Kobie I never said it didn't work on static subjects it just seems to work better in AFS for static subjects I find it no problem to toggle user modes between AFC, AFS, AFC Small and AFS Small for bird photography as I find it better on smaller birds in the small setting instead of the bird getting lost in the back ground I cannot drive for 6 weeks after surgery I have taken the time to refurbish my Pentax Spotamatic film camera I bought mainly because it was in a kit with a number of Takumar lenses in fact it sat unused until somebody gave me a roll of film that's when I discovered the light Seals were bad and for a few dollars I replaced the seals with supplies from Walmart
Excellent discussion. The only time I find continuous focus an issue is in macro. It really has a hard time with moving plants with my macro lenses. Often I switch to manual focus. Otherwise, with the NEWER firmware, it’s working just fine. I wonder if others who have issues have kept up with the firmware?
@@cdrkennon For macro it really helps if you're using back-button focus, I turn off the focus on the shutter button. Then I can auto-focus once and then move the camera in-out to follow the wind motion.
I’d be curious on more of your finding. Let us know what you find out. Is there going to be a run on Pentax after everyone who purchased the film camera get an itch for what else Pentax has? I shoot mirrorless and Pentax older film cams. Going to jump back into another Pentax DSLR the k1 and k3iii at the same price definitely makes it a little harder. Or just a kf.
It uses the same parameters as Auto focus but without the camera controlling the lens. So whatever you have in the center of the viewfinder will be what you want to capture. So as you move the focus ring, the cameras AF sensor waits until that spot in the center is sharp, then tells the camera to release the shutter.
i shoot field hockey cycling road and track and the occasional softball with a70-200mm and 150-450mm i use af C small select type 3 s with af hold off seems to work for me with the k3iii . you get some miss some how it goes high shutter speeds help
I have been doing sport photography since 2009 and have always used Pentax. I currently, since 2015, do sports photography as a profession for universities and high schools nationally. I have not found anything but positive success with my 70-200mm f2.8 and 300m f4 lenses. I don't have the 55-300mm, so can't compare. I currently use 2 K-3 Markiii's and a K-3. I always shoot in AF-C. I have found that Type 2 Autofocus is much better for action sports, Focus Action 4, Subject priority off, TAv, panning, Release Priority, Shutter not lower than 800 (although it is usually fine down to 500 inside), aperture f4 mostly when outside. When I have trouble, it is the camera body or the buffering of the SD cards that causes it to pause or not seem to focus. I have not ever had a problem with my 70-200mm f2.8 unless I dropped it...then had to get a new one.  I would love to try the 55-300mm sometime, although not being a f2.8 is a problem. The sports I shoot are soccer, cross country, Nordic skiing (cross country), track and field, as well as occasionally, golf.
I most shoot Sports. Football (European), motocross, cycling, cricket etc both with Sony A74 Tamron 35-150 Sony 200-600 as well with K1-ll Pentax 70-200 f2.8 Pentax 150-450. Had 2 copies of PLM 55-300 and 3 bodies of K3-lll but went back to K1-ll because of better IQ, colors, exposure etc. Sony vs Pentax is totally different techniques. Sony tracks the subject while with Pentax I have to track myself which I like better, more in control. To get great photos in focus is not a problem with a slow camera as K1-II. AF-C, spot focus or 9 points selective (selective slows down the camera a bit) and maximum Hold will nail so much more than anything else of fancy settings and I get as many % keepers as with A74 and better IQ as a bonus. Sony has other great things that makes it useful. Tested to follow hockey players skating around the whole rink with fokus locked on one player and it just glues to him even when other comes between, its just amazing to nail shots after shot with endless buffer never stopping the camera. Buffer and tracking is Pentax major problems but IQ can no one beat. Have had D500 and Canon R5 but they are gone. Try AF-C plus Spot with 150-450 it will be great. 70-200 focus a bit faster but you have the 150-450. Just now sitting comparing Football shots from last week and K1-II are fantastic even if A74 is sharper cropping in but sharpness is not all to a picture.
Kobie This is nothing new with the K-3-111 that' why I have user 1 Autofocus S and user #2 autofocus C so I toggle between the two settings Sometimes the camera can be a pain using its advanced features
I took photos during beach volleyball of uniformed services in Poland in the city of "Przemyśl Fortress", using an old Pentax K10D digital camera with a CCD matrix. I set the focus to the center of the frame and track the movement, freeing the electronics from this function and using the so-called Zoom walk 16-85 and it works. In addition, you can set the focus at a specific point and when the object is in the focus range, the camera will release the shutter - this is an old trick of photographers taking photos of fast sports. You can also combine it with serial photos. I don't know if the K3 mark III has face tracking, because if so, it is only in live view and this can also be used to prevent the camera from losing the athlete's face. Unfortunately, Pentax K10D does not have this function./ Greetings from Poland from the city of "Przemyśl Fortress". Ps. I'm sorry but I don't speak English and I translate the text using Google Translator.
I did many sports for a number of years. Newspaper, AP. That was all film. It really boils down to ‘follow the ball’ and keep an eye out for human interest. I never used a motor drive - some did. But training your eye to read the moment is key. Shooting with a K1 II for football was frustrating. The K3 III works much better. Pentax needs some long telephotos in f2.8 for night sports. The high ISO performance of the K3 III is definitely excellent but every little bit helps.
