A good jog through an interesting subject. Thank you for waking me up. One can never be too cognizant of housing science, being that humanity, the all of us within our frailty, are designed more or less, to live in a house. No room for a knucklehead to ever build one. My dad, whom I loved, was a construction engineer, and would explain to me subjects such as compression, and tensile strength, but never clued me in on the moisture variables. So thank you. I believe an air to air heat/cooling exchange would be imperative in a SIP home.
Quite interesting. I am contemplating contracting SIP building. I wonder how many house designs manufacturers, and distributors own themselves. Very interesting presentation, and I appreciate the information.
I wonder if a SIPs factory could assemble something like Concave Mansard roof panels.They seem real good, and appear able to pinpoint anything. Keep amazing me.
The dream would be a double-wall build for extra insulation; then you can run electrical through studs as normal. You lose a little bit of floor plan space, so the rooms along the exterior wall should be sized accordingly.
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The panels come in different thicknesses so their strength is proportional to the thickness. 12 1/4" being the strongest and 4 1/2" being the least. You can get them into the 200+ mph range but you need to have an engineer (who knows what they are doing) help you come up with a strategy to accomplish it. I would not be surprised if the thinnest SIPs will get you north of 140 mph but it is relative to the 3 dimensional design/shape of the building as well. A word to the wise, there is a level to a structure being able to handle high wind speeds but heavy debris being thrown into the structure (like a truck, or a train, or the neighbors house) will destroy it. This is true of all styles and materials for construction.
A commercial building requires a PE size HVAC and stamp the design. Residential just requires Bubba to size it and Bubba generally works for the HVAC company. That is truly the fox watching the hen house. If our country wants to go green, then make the PE responsible for sizing HVAC independent of the HVAC contractor.
Random reply from a contractor PM...if you haven't gotten the answer already, the answer would depend on the support requirements based on the weight of the object(s)--typically SIPs have a 7/8" OSB sheathing on both sides, which is actually pretty strong itself, and will support most anything with an appropriate distribution of wood-rated fasteners (screws). Larger items would (should) need additional solid wood framing/backing or fur studs to provide dedicated mounting positions. When in doubt, add more solids!
@@tmckenzie777 Thanks, that makes sense. Just used to always having to find at least one stud to hold up anything even sort of heavy. It looks like they often fly even really large sips panels into place with just a plate and maybe half a dozen screws, so i guess OSB is stronger than I thought.
Hi, thank you so much for the videos! They are very helpful. There's one question I'd like to ask here.. I'm planning to build a 2-story house and when considering whether to go for SIP wall panels, is it okay if there are additional interior walls on the second floor (i.e. walls which there would be nothing below them on the first floor)? Would that be structurally feasible for SIP constructions? Thank you in advance for your answer!
Y eso es en usa? Así trabajan ? Aquí en chile esta prohibido usar el cable o cordón sin un ducto o conduit de pvc. Me imagino un corte eléctrico se propagara por toda la casa . Es un peligro. Saludos .
Is there an option to use Fire resistant OSB such as LP's fire resistant osb? It would seem like a no brainer to have your panels fire rated to begin with on the wood side.
Harms the credibility of this electrician when he's demonstrating under floor joists butchered by not knowing where to drill holes. There is no good fix for that, is there?
Thank you so much for the excellent presentation! Your section about moisture management principles in SIP panels (let it dry out towards the side of the panel where it got wet) made me think about my planned application. We have planned a low slope roof angle (2/12) over 7/16 OSB SIP and -- hopefully low-cost -- corrugated metal panels on the top. The home will be built in Twentynine Palms, that is climate-wise very similar to Phoenix that you have mentioned as an example. My question is if you would recommend some kind of membrane that would allow vapor penetration in case the OSB is getting wet (we had some heavy rains last month as an example)? There is always the question if some lingering splash water would penetrate the permeable membrane long term (maybe over several hours). Would it not be more advisable to use a watertight sealing (like Polyglass XFR) or just felt #30 not to allow water in in the first place?
Actually, with the issues we are having in recruiting any workforce, I think it would be easier to train a newby to work with SIPs, than teach them to frame. I can see lots of issues with most of the framers I have worked with learning to do SIPs well. And, less problems if I take someone who started with SIPs, and turning them into a framer.
I am bidding our first SIP home electrical installation. This is a great video for me to gain knowledge and be better prepared to figure out a price for this job.
You mean 'WILL' come through your SIP House. And when it rains, its not just a car driving by that will transmit that sound into your house like your living inside a DRUM, but having to tolerate a night long rain storm thumping on your SIP roof may not be so nice.
Hi I'm based in the UK and need some advice, I have used a manufacturing company that had erected my sip man cave, roughly 6.7m (w) x 4.88m(d) and 2.5m high they used an eps system with 122mm panels, the flat roof uses 600 x 2400 panels however the company has joined these two panels with a 2x4 c16 timber, to span 4.88m for the roof the roof also has an openings for a 70kg skylight, I am worried once I put the skylight in the roof might not hold the skylight, as the max span of a 4x2 with a point load of 70kg is roughly 1.7m, can you advice please
How did you get on with your build? Remember that the splines joining the panels are glue and screwed to form a composite structure much stronger than just the splines themselves. If you were talking about a joisted roof using 4"x2" joists then you would be correct, they would not be sufficiently strong but a SIPs roof is different! Happy to talk it over. (Sources: I work for a SIPs processor and housebuilder in Scotland)
Have you considered using a hempcrete panel instead of an osb panel to build your SIP. There are natural benefits to using hempcrete. Fire proof. Bug resistant. Helps with moisture. Lasts longer. Something to consider.
My house became possessed by a demonic force. I made the house really tight by wrapping it with a peel and stick membrane so it couldn't breathe. Problem solved.
