Adjustable camber bushings are fine, just mark where they should be and if they get off it's a simple ratchet to get it back in place. Beats the stock one and the horrible steering from lack of positive camber stock
Have you had any trouble with the lower block lift/leveling kit from ReadyLift?? I know some have reported problems with tearing axle boots?? Btw…. Love the setup. I’m looking to do the exact same!!
I have had 3 of these vans over the years... they are good vans but nothing special and they are old... not sure why you think it's worth any where near 15 Kor even worth doing a long video that doesn't really say anything ythat you couldn't i a facebook ad.
I always love when people take the panel Vans and they put windows in them because I'm my 2004 Econoline I have no windows on the side and we have Windows in the rear
Terrible video. Between the wind noise and vertical filming (why would you vertical film a van that is much wider than it is tall?). Sounds like the spacer is an inexpensive alternative to a real lift but I would not do business with a company like this. I'd much rather spend more to deal with a reputable company.
Video so terrible you made a decision to NOT buy from that company!! Glad I could help with my terrible video! I'm in no way affiliated with Ford parts one and honestly I'm kinda happy you won't buy their products because they suck. But if you only have a few hundred bucks to lift a van it's the only option. So you save your money and drop 3 to 4k on a better lift if you've got it. As far as the video quality, I'm some dude with an old cell phone making a video to help people see what they get with a certain lift. Sorry it wasn't edited, wind sock over mic and up to your standards. I'll definitely not work on my video quality because I really don't give a damn about it since I make exactly $0 for putting videos out. Merry Christmas you turd
@@mattlentz5107 I appreciate your post I myself am struggling to do buisness with FP1 I despise all the taked on fee’s literally asking for donations to make their “shipping manager work faster with coffee or expresso” I get paid to do my job not selectively do it.. I want to just buy the F series spacers and try them a lot of people talk about them and say they may do it but I haven’t seen any updates as to if it worked.. thanks for your video I also hope that the Cr*p company will get their Sh*t together and listen to the people especially with so many people turning to vanlifes they could sell more
I would just recommend putting the charge controller on that circuit with the solar panel so you don't have to worry about damaging the battery or starting a fire (I know, not likely but still). Also keep in mind the heater is not waterproof. It's designed to be put inside the rig and the exhaust vented outside. The bonus there too is the exhaust pipe dumps some heat into the trailer too. A couple of these have been on my list for shop heating. They are very efficient on diesel, and don't have a huge power draw.
Good tip. I read up on this particular solar panel and I believe it has some sort of charge controller built in? Maybe I'm wrong but I think it will not overcharge the battery from what I have read. As far as being waterproof yes I agree. They are not made to get wet. I'm trying to figure out some sort of cover that will make it more tolerant of poor weather while we camp. We got lucky this last trip because it was dry snot and not rain or sleat. Thanks for the advice
For long term running that exhaust pipe needs to be on a downward slope from the heater outlet to the open end so that condensation doesn't accumulate and eventually drown out the fire.
I saw a bunch of videos that reinforce your point about the exhaust. I didn't realize it would condensate as much as I have seen on other videos. I'll likely be adjusting the exhaust once we get to a camping spot so it faces down and allows drainage of condensation. When I put this in my garage to heat it I'll make sure exhaust is facing down as well. Thanks for the info.
U can get just one 250 watt panel on ur lical craigslist for 75.00 around here in louisiana they r constantly ripping down the panels on rent to scams n they can only put new panels on homes so if u want permanent never have to worry route that n mppt u r done n done bro Fantastic video
Thanks for that info. I looked at the more permanent panels but I'm hesitant to attach anything to the roof of this old rv. It doesn't leak as it is now and I kinda want to leave good enough alone!!! Also the power usage of this little heater is so minimal I'm not sure if need that much solar to keep the battery recharged. I think if we had a bigger camper with more 12v draws I'd definitely do what you're saying just to make life easier and not have to think about always moving a solar panel. Awesome advice and I appreciate it though. Thanks for that.
You can run a red wire from you underhood battery to the rear battery to keep it charged also. Just pickup the black ground from a metal source close to the battery, also, mount the soal panel up top of camper. If you do it correctly it will stay and you will never have any issues with it. Now 1 important safty thing. Get you a yellow approved can for desiel fuel. Even though you know the red one has what you know is in it, someone else may not especially in an emergency. As for the video. All good, you did a great imformative jod, good on you.
Thanks for the info. I was thinking of making a wire jumper that came off my trailer light plug on the truck that would keep the battery tended while the truck was on. I know that plug has power while truck is running since the trailer lights would be operational then so I just need to figure out a way to make that power feed into that stand alone 12v battery. Future plans so I don't need a solar panel.
Hey this was awsome in that im making a heat station for my bride while shes outside drinking her coffee an hanging out, i was worried about the exhaust smell. Also noise, fuel use, portability. Thank you, my question is how did it handle the weather, in that i didnt know if they are weatherproof?
I don't think they are really meant to be exposed to the rain. We were in very cold 7 to 20 degree weather with snow that was dumping so it handled that fine. I think if there were rain or a really wet snow dumping the LCD screen and the inlet may be compromised. I'm kinda thinking about ways now to make this a little more "waterproof" after hearing that some people were concerned and I'm sure it may create issues. I don't want to be nice and cozy sleeping in the woods and have a rain burst wipe out my heater so Il have to get creative and make some sort of cover for it before our next expedition.
Need a solar controller MPPT is the way to go with a brief case panel that folds and gets 100 or more watts. It's good you got your feet wet tho. Great write up.
Thanks man. Yeah this was my half a$$ thrown together little camping set up. I was trying to do everything as quickly and cheap as possible. I definitely can see where everything can be improved though for sure. I'll check out those other panels you mentioned. Probably a lot more user friendly and take a lot less room in an already cramped environment. Thanks again.
CAUTION the RED fuel can should NEVER be used for DIESEL fuel. Confusion can occur and GASOLINE might get fueled up in the RED fuel can. If that gets poured in a diesel heater, someone might get hurt and/or someone gets to meet a bunch of firemen. Additional interesting note ... during my garage warming days with a kerosene/diesel heater (salamander) I would "treat" my 5 gallon yellow/blue fuel can with my favorite aroma lamp oil.
Good info. Yeah I couldn't find a 1 gallon yellow diesel container. I'm going to use a sharpie and mark "diesel" on that can so there is no confusion. Good tip on the aroma too. Thanks.
I have done this same lift and run 17s with a 0 offset wheel 17x8.5 and they for fine. Probably fit better than the 16s since you don't have to be as careful about wheel weight placement since the 17 gives you a little more room.
I have a similar truck but with the stock silver 17's and wondering with the offset of those stock I should stick with the 70 series instead of the 75. thoughts? I have a Moto-fab level kit same style as yours. Thanks for any info.
70s are a safe bet. My 75s just barely scrub when backing up. I mean just the lightest scrape sound so to be safe a 70 would be good. The 75s are hard to find too. Only a few options but when you get to the 70 series you'll find tons of options. The new gladiators run a 70 so sometimes you'll find falken take offs for dirt cheap.
I got to start not once but twice & drive a white 1989 Ford Econoline 250 with a 300ci 6 cyl 3 speed auto still had the metal divider behind the seat's due to being a cargo hauler maybe it was a coca cola truck. Ran great started the 2 times i started it. My friend sold it to his friend for $5000.
