Not sure I know what you mean. Is the projected picture flickering? If so, you need to adjust the projector speed to 16.66fps. and the camcorder shutter to 1/50th sec. and 25fps
Not sure what you mean except that the picture is moving from side to side? I assume that you have tried just projecting straight on to a screen or piece of paper. If the same fault happens it is a problem with the projector gate and claw or a faulty film with damaged sprocket holes. You could also try stopping the film in the gate ( as shown in the video before focussing ) and let the camcorder run to see if there is the same movement. If there is not, it looks like a fault with the projector. If there is movement, it will be the camcorder. If the above fails, I do not know. I assume that the projector has a 3 bladed shutter? Let me know how you get on.
The projector is perfect, this is all within the Camera's shortcomings, I assume. I am projecting the image directly on to the camera sensor, using Panasonic GH-4. you can check some of my uploads, to see the problem. It's not too bad , but I want to make it better if I could.
How is your condenser lens magnifying just the film in the gate? Does it have to do with the distance from the mirror/lens from the projector lens? Is the projector lens zoomed in all the way or out? Sorry for all the questions, just really curious as to how to make this work for myself. Great work!!!
The projector is placed about 1 foot in front of the lens and mirror, a piece of paper is folded over the face of the condenser lens, and the projector is focussed and zoomed to obtain the largest image on the paper, all as shown on the video. The paper is removed and the camcorder zoomed and focussed on the image on the condenser lens. Whether the projector is projecting on to the camcorder chip, or the camcorder is focussed on the projector gate , I do not know, but it works.
I'm having trouble getting the light focused onto the lens cap of the camera. Could it be my projector lens? It's a F1.5 20-32mm projector lens. Which are you using? Thank you for all your help!!
It will not be the projector lens but the condenser lens which is at fault. If you can get one, try a 4 or 5 inch magnifying glass with a magnification of 1.5 - 2.0.One of the posters below tried this several years ago and got perfect results using a shaving mirror and a magnifying glass.
Paper is not used as a projection screen. The paper is only used to roughly focus the camcorder, it is then removed and the camcorder is now focussed on the film in the projector gate.
I have been using a variable speed to get rid of the flicker, and it does that real good. The problem is when dial up the speed on sound projectors to get rid of the flicker, the voices are speeded up too! Mini Mouse anyone? How do you fix that without new equipment. Or am I just squeakn'dixey.
Yes, unfortunately this will happen. You could try using an editing programme such as Pinnacle which allows you to speed up or slow down the transferred film. By trial and error slightly slow down the transfer until the speech sounds right, & there will be no flicker. Once you have the setting right just apply it to the whole transfer. If you get it wrong it is quite easy to return it to its original state & have another go at it. There many programmes on the market which will do this.
mickthebl Hello, I would like to have additional information about your telecine system. I have the following equipment: → projector Beaulieu 708 EL STEREO → Camcorder Sony FS 100 Or can we have the condenser you have made. Do you have the condenser manufacturing plan? For lighting Led how cell does it take to get an excellent result (HD 1080P). Or can we buy the illumination cell? In advance thank you for your response. Sincerely. Alain mail cgr@numericable.fr
alain batier See my response to jim Erdmann below for specification of condenser lens. You will also need a first surface mirror set at 45deg to the lens. I believe that Leds are successful as a light source, I have never tried them. Almost any light source will do as long as it is low powered & diffused. You have to make one that fits your Beaulieu projector.
Thanks for the compliment. The music is taken from a copyright free disc "Gentle Guitar" track 2 produced by NVMDIGITAL. They produce many background music discs which can often be heard on TV programmes here in the UK.
Thanks for the compliment. Really it is easy.A lot depends on the original film, fortunately mine was quite good & I only used the best shots. Liked your Vulcan video. I remember well, about 30 years ago , sheltering from the pouring rain under the wing of one at the Woodford Air Show, where it was on static display.
The results are simply stunning, and I say that after looking at what quite a few professional houses have produced. The complete lack of flicker is most striking but the clarity and colour purity are superb. You make it look so easy!
Yes, providing you have a 16mm projector that runs at exactly 24fps. See the moviestuff website for 16mm units( although theirs is single frame capture the principle is the same) The projector needs a 5 bladed shutter. If you cannot make a shutter yourself they can be purchased from GDM Telecine Shutters. You will need a camcorder with a 1/60th sec exposure & there should be no flicker when projected in real time at 24fps.This is for NTSC only.
Thanks. A relative gave me 26 reels to convert I didn't want the usual results. I used your video and others to take an Ansco 788 projector and convert it for capture use. I removed the bulb and replaced it with a 10-watt CF bulb. I then added a dimmer switch to the motor. I didn't need it most of the time. I didn't have a lens and mirror to invert and rotate the image. I just did it through software in post. I pointed camera right into the lens. The relative was stoked at results.
Thanks so much for your instruction video. I tried it out using a old sankyo Super 8 projector and a Canon 550d dslr with a zoom lens as the camcorder and got some promising results. Now I just need to start fine tuning a few things.
I have nearly got my setup like this working. The ELMO ST-180M, I found also has the two pots on the circuit board. winding one of them down has COMPLETELY eliminated the flicker. hope this helps for elmo owners, Steve
Very very good, though you do not need a front silver mirror to invert the footage. Flip it in your software afterwards. I was able to buy cinecap so I am doing my films frame by frame.
Just thought I'd let you know that I experimented with three RGB LED's from Maplins at £1.99! Each diode gives off green, blue and red light....but linked together then give off white light. I was completely amazed at the difference this made to regular halogon lighting. Not only were the colours more true ( I have a 3 CCD camera) but the detail was better. It's ( apparently ) to do with the original emulsions in the cine film itself, and how a 3 CCD camera sees light ( in green, blue and red).
I don't think a laser level would help. It is easy enough to set the projector, mirror & lens in line & at 90 degrees & shine the beam through onto the cam lens cap, then adjust the cam to suit. You can do this without a film in the gate. If the corners of the frame are dark, the back of the cam needs adjusting until it is evenly bright all over. See" Moviestuf" site- how it works.A friend has one of theirs & I understand it is difficult to set up.My lens is a double convex, not plano convex
As long as you have the mirror & lens at 45 degrees & you centre the image in the lens & then position the camcorder by the beam, only minor adjustments will be required.The main cause of discolouring is because the camcorder is probably not on the centre line of the beam either horizontally or vertically although the lens is. Juggle it about a bit & you will get it right.A magnifying glass will be fine providing it is of the correct magnification - see video response above,that uses a m glass
Hi....One major problem I have is trying to line everything up! Apart from trial and error, is there a reliable method to line all the optics up correctly? It seems a tiny movement one way or the other makes the image disappear all togther or you get a "blueing" or colour change of the image...could a laser level be applied to use the laser beam to help line up the optics? I also use a magnifying glass rather than plano convex lens...but maybe should invest the extra and get the proper lens??
@videomanproductions. I considered using LEDs but wanted to vary the strength of the light depending on the film exposure ( hence the dimmer )& decided it would be too difficult with LEDs.Also looked at " Telecine"rwbuswell here on Utube.He has tried both & considers halogen to be slightly better.I bought mine from BLT Direct at less than £1.00 each & have only used one in the last six years.
if you are still using bulbs, google pureland supply for good prices, I do not work for them or am trying to spam, just a good lead for you to save money. but l.e.d lighting is better Dave
@mickthebl chinon has two speed pots on the circuit board near the front. ( just remove the front cover)1 adjusts the speed from 18fps and the other adjusts the projector speed when set to 24 frames. just use a plastic screwdriver, a steel one will screw up the speed when its touching the dimmer pot as it has a weak meginetic field that interfers when so close to the circuit board, hope that helps cheers, Dave
@mickthebl the description tells this: "Sound has been synchronised later." Camera: Kodak Instamatic M4, film Kodachrome K40 DIY telecine with a mirror, a large magifiying glass and a Canon DV-camera, used in the 16:9-mode. Gate of the projector has been wided. Leader is a screen frame-by-frame record. (original probably. 16mm) Film leader is frame-by-frame opgenomen vanaf een computerbeeldscherm (vermoedelijk een 16mm leader?)
@mickthebl I'ts allmost a year ago, but, at last I've uploaded a super8 movie through the same sort of telecine. And it works superb :) I will add it as a video-reply. :)
@ynnebbenny . That's how I started, with about 30No. 600ft reels it would have cost a fortune. Though after 6 years, I still have 5 to go, due to also replacing the sound tracks.If you read the comments below you should be able to pick some tips, but if you have any problems, just ask. BEST OF LUCK.
I cannot count how many times I have watched this footage and it never fails to made me think back on those years with fondness.Thanks for the memories!
@whatthebutlersaw01 It is a standard definition, 3CCD,Canon XM2.digital video camcorder. Originally I used a digital Canon MVX150i until it it broke & I replaced it with the 3CCD model.Although the definition is slightly better with the 3CCD one, the original produced excellent results. If you use a High Definition camcorder you would get even better results than mine, but you have the problem of aspect ratio, as they all seem to be in widescreen format, some form of masking would be required.
@mickthebl You've done a great transfer hat off to you! By the way what sort of Canon Camcorder is it? I have set up your exact system good transfer but resolution is not as good as yours but then im camcorder isn't as good as yours by the looks of it? I presume it's digital? Cheers J
@triceramovieboy . For PAL systems you must set the projector speed to 16.66 frames per second & the camcorder exposure to 1/50th second & there will be no flicker. The video shows you how to do it.
@VideoClapper . Glad that you found it interesting. I think that the whiteouts are down to Utube. I have just had a look at the original on the DVD player. There are no whiteouts & you can clearly see the shape of the white clouds against a very pale blue sky, you can even see white smoke rising from a chimney in the distance, which cannot be seen on Utube. The exposure has to be locked at 1/50th second for the transfer but the aperture is automatic. Overall the quality of the DVD is superior.
Remarkably the best quality 8mm to video transfer I have seen, Together with a full and clear explanation of how to achieve such results. My only criticism of the transfer is the rare whiteouts, particularly in areas of sky. Maybe locking the exposure at the start when setting white balance could eliminate these, but it could make things worse, depending on the exposure mix in the original footage. Your video has both instructed and encouraged me. And that music, its just so evocative.
@TheOzphotoman The condenser lens acts as a large magnifying glass which allows the camcorder to capture the image of the film in the projector gate. If you use a ground glass screen you will have a problem with grain though this can be reduced by using the largest possible screen, you may also have a problem with a hotspot & contrast. One of the posters below recommends tracing paper which gave him acceptable results.
