I just started uploading some videos of whatever I am working on. I won’t be solving world hunger or reinventing the wheel. The videos will be of whatever I am working on. Most of which I learned from RU-vid.
Never trust anyone who doesn’t use Jack stands. It’s your dangerous having those jacks under there like that and not using stands!!! Please be safe people!!
Looks to be a sub wire that went bad it connects from door, runs through door henge into under driver side dash it’s sold on Amazon part # STX-A01 32757STXA01. It seems like this part is main culprit for issues involving power/door locks, windows, trunk, mirrors, sunroof
Working on an E93 is a totally different monster. I could not remove the trim panels in the rear to replace the shocks. I had to throw the towel. I did replace the battery but it took me 1 hoour.
I'm going to have to install a clock spring in mine too and noticed that yellow tab detail. My assumption is that it is there so you have to break it off to install it. This notifies the seller that it's been installed and voids returns. My other thought is that it is there to keep the clock spring centered.
Having watched nearly 50years of both factory and aftermarket "how to videos from Ford, Gm, Chrysler, and even at the beginning of my automotive career AMC " You are by far the best instructor, pointing out every aspect of the operation in easy to understand instructions.
I have 08 e93 also the same red an blue wires not connected to anything... just a spare. Check the wires/plug connector that connects to that black plastic rectangle shape thing on positive terminal side. That's the air bag wires maybe bad connection
I just google for it. Here is what I found. www.hrvforum.com/threads/front-brake-pads-and-rotors.40343/ Usually the size of the bolt will indicate the torque value. Like… 17mm is about 80lb 14mm is about 35lb 13mm around 26lb 12mm closer to 18lb Not bot the oil drain though… Oil drain 17mm but torques at 34lb… 🤦🏽♂️
04 Acura MDX Car thinks door is open when closed. Replaced jamb switch, still doing it, but dome lights dim and anti theft engages. Door open is still displaying and light bulb on driver panel is on. If I remove the bulb dome lights come on and anti theft will NOT engage. Ideas?
I had the same problem. I replaced the electrical sub-harness that connects the driver side door to the harness by the fuse box next to the parking brake under the dash. Post pandemic, Acura had run out of this sub-harness. I waited one year for it to be in stock again. It cost me $80 and took less than an hour to install. There are videos on RU-vid that demonstrate the installation. Tip: The opening between the door jamb and the cabin is not easy to see. You have to route it through the opening with your fingers. When removing the old sub-harness, I tied a long shoestring to one end. When I had removed the sub-harness by pulling it through, I left the shoestring in the opening of the door jamb…one end in the cabin by the fuse box, the other end hanging in the opening in the door jamb. When I was ready to install the new sub-harness, I tied the shoestring to one end and pulled to through the opening…with a lot of feeling around with my fingers. It made it easier to do.
@@reynacastilleja1617 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0gGVqBFJyw0.htmlsi=NcKh_dbAJ5_CPZiJ I tied a shoestring on the part of the old subharness that I pulled through the door jamb opening above the fuse box on the left side of the driver’s footwell. This opening is not easy to see and removing the old harness and installing the new harness requires a lot of feeling around to guide it through the small opening. Once the old harness is out, I retie the shoestring to the new harness and pull it through the hole using the shoestring. It all is done by looking at the external door jamb opening and feeling for the opening above the fuse box in the cabin. Best of luck.
As for as the putting the 10mm hex in the rear diff fill and drain plug. It is always good to clear the rust with flat head screw driver or with a pick then tap your 10mm hex there with a hammer. 10mm hex should be all the way in the hole to avoid stripping it. If 10mm hex is all the way in then chances of stripping the hex nut is very low. Key is to remove the rust from the hole and tapping the 10mm hex key into the hole to make sure it is all the way in then open it loose.
thank you so much for the video - great work. There is front differential as well. It takes 14mm wrench for both drain and fill plug. Fill plug of this front differential is at such a awkward and tight spot that you can't even imagine it being there. There is not enough space for a socket and you can only use wrench. Room to turn the wrench in that tight spot is so tiny that Not all 14mm wrench can work there. 14mm made by Stanley worked for me but made my Moto Master did not. Once you loosened the fill plug, it is easy to take it off with two fingers and there is only space for 2 fingers nothing else. Please have a look and you would be really surprised. This video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mVlxfN0eOrs.html helped me to get the front differential fluid changed.
Very helpful steps to follow; however, you have to deal with a very heavy battery. Lifting the battery in and out was the hardest. Do not try if you can not lift heavy item in a very tight space. Thanks.
Man... I've had mine for 15 years, no idea that you could put the hood up on that position... I don't even want to touch it anymore I'm so mad at myself. FML
