Legend mate appreciate the video..was going to try Chinese rip-off pump but now I won’t. I will try gluing the shite outta the valve first, just because I like to make things difficult😂 Then I’m guessing it will be genuine 👍cheers again
It seems more owners should be watching your video judging by the complaints i have read about all the problems they are having with a B&D auto-feed. Sounds like yours has had a lot of use with no problems. I have to dig into a GH1100 that i just got cheap at a thrift store. The cap is missing, guard too, and it has a damaged spool. I believe that this 1100 Model is supposed to have a spring-loaded lever in the auto advance mechanism whereas your Model doesn't appear to be spring loaded. I don't think i am that concerned about the guard but want to get it operational. I have seen complaints about how large the guard is. I wear steel-toed work boots (usually) and long pants, certainly no flip-flops and shorts for me like i see being worn on YT.
How does the flow rate work? I know pump sprayers purchased for this purpose have over pump control and specific flow rate with the pumping. If you stop spraying while the pump is on, what happens?
The pump has a pressure switch built in that shuts the pump off when the flow stops (you stop spraying) As far as flow rate / pressure goes, it's not adjustable in this configuration. You can buy pumps with different max psi ratings.
The pump has a pressure switch built in which shuts the pump off when you release the wand trigger. The pressure is not adjustable in this configuration but you really don't need it to be.
Very good video! Are you putting 18v through that 12v pump? I thought about doing this with a step down converter to put a more controlled voltage through it. Unsure if it’s required though. Thoughts?
Watch the first video as I explain the electronics there. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-by2gAaDmeeg.htmlfeature=shared Yes I'm converting 18 (20v) to 12 to match the pump. Some pumps are 12v only, some have a range. For a consistent spray I use 12v. If by chance the pump is actually only rated for 12 and you run 20 through it, bad things happen!!
You certainly can do it this way, however with todays tools you can work smarter. I used a siphon pump or even used Automotive Fluid Extractor Pump, Oil Change Syringe with Hose no fuss no mess. It is a good idea to run the motor I usually change the oil after the grass is cue. Oil changes are very easy now a days.
bought a replacement belt from auto zone it was not exact real close. Lasted 8 weeks. buy the right belts. Amazon carry them by part number listed on the mower.
It looks great! Thank you for all the tips, I'll be doing this next year. I live in the Seattle area, it's pointless for me to do it now because our super rainy season starts in 3 weeks)
And the award for best instructional video on the internet goes to....... you. Great job. I have the exact same mower and my drive belt broke. Watched your video several times. I was able to do it myself. Thank you so much for putting up the time and effort it took to video yourself.
@ 33:28 If I had to grip a pulley to keep it from turning without damaging the pulley itself, I would wrap the old belt around the pulley and use vise grip like pliers to clamp the loose ends together, this will give you a substantial way to keep the pulley from turning if you don't have access to an impact gun. It works for me but YMMV.
I have a lot of vibration when I engage the blade. I assumed it was the blade but I noticed the center bearing has just a tiny amount of vertical play. Does anyone know if this center blade bearing should be very tight or have a small amount of movement?
I fited one to mine the tractor would not start With it coneted to the spark plug wire I thought it was faulty so i tryec a secon o e same isue was the unit was robbing the spark from the coil If you conected it with a clip aftef it was running it ran ok But once you stop it wont ever start again Way is this ?? Bob
It's an induction sensor so you just wrap the wire around the spark plug wire. No need to disconnect anything and it should have zero impact on the spark.
@petedymond the tacho sensor wire seams to Rob, the spark from the plug ? I tried it with spark tester attached to the coil lead No spark with tach wire on Plenty spark with tach wire removed Runs fine with tach wire removed from plug lead It got me beat And I have been around engines all my life I'm guessing the coil has a doid or a transistor In the new engines for some resion And it's cutting out the spark when the tach wire is attached Strange thing is if you attach the tach lead After you have started it it runs fine But won't start till you remove it, that is weird
There should be a recall on that intake manifold. FROD now makes a replacement manifold for the 4.6, not the 5.4. It costs you about 20 horse power. The Dorman costs you 26 HP. They should have designed an aluminum intake instead of sticking it to their customers with a piece of poop plastic intake.
I came up with the same idea while staring in disbelief at the situation, but decided to search the web to see if there was another option before I tried it. This is the way to go and it's nice to see it has been tried and done. Thanks so much!
I got mine built and tested today and better than expected indeed. I sure do thank you for all that you did cause I went by yours and it did great. Many many many thanks
Thank you I needed that looks like I can't get anyone to see about my lawn mower I have to see about it myself I need to change the spark plug I've had it for 3 years and I guess I need to change the filter
Thank you! I shared your video with my hubby so no excuses 😅 Any tips on the sliding door not closing / latching at once ( automatic ) very annoying to get out on kids pick up line and close it 😅
When I reinstalled the pulley with the arm, I mistakenly put it with the arm above the horizontal bar. It worked for a bit, then the belt jumped off (luckily not breaking). When I realized what I had done and put it below the horizontal bar, everything worked fine. Wish I had seen this video first so that I might have noticed that the arm was in the wrong place.
This is exactly what we needed! We messed with ours for a bit and couldn’t figure out exactly why it was so stuck. We didn’t want to break anything by doing something wrong We watched your video. A few whacks with a hammer and we were moving forward. Huge help!
Thank you. I followed the instructions and was able to put on a new belt. Looking at the instructions in the manual would not have been enough. Great video
NOT easy? You must be doing it wrong then. step1- DO NOT remove the deck step2- LOWER the deck to its lowest setting step3- Remove old belt. Cut it if you have to. step3- feed the belt thru belt guides & around motor pully first. step4- route belt around blade pulley step 5- route belt around idler pulley last. It will be tight. Hold belt against blade pulley w one hand & reach under deck & turn blade with other hand feeding the belt onto the blade pulley. step last- Turn your kid loose on the lawn while you reward yourself with a cold one. !
Congratulations, you just shared how to replace the BLADE belt. This video is how to replace the 2 DRIVE belts... I made a seperate video for just the blade belt.
I have a craftsman r110 and I replaced the lower drive belt. While the mower is in park, is the belt suppose to be loose to the point it doesn’t spin? It tightens up when I engage the speed to 1-5, but it is very loose when in park.
Just changed my 4.6L intake manifold Saturday...found out this morning about this problem, luckily only a few miles from home...crazy they build this part with such a massive defect built in. I'll try this repair method and get back on the road, thanks!
@@petedymond Hey thank you there my friend. I dont know why it still shows my wifes business when I post-lol but you had to only model here that was same as mine and I sure do thank you for taking time and posting and also for having patience with me on this.
