Video how to guides showing various mechanical repairs on automotive, marine, and small engine applications. Possibly some scenes involving woodworking... and maybe some bad cooking.
@@ramonsantoyo8758 I "believe" it's the same part 529035820, but google your model and year "Impeller tool". Also can look up "WR012L" which is long to fit some variety of jet pumps. leadingedgeimpellers.com/wr012l.html is a site I looked into for this, because your right little tougher to find an exact mention of 2023, and I haven't pulled an impeller off of one yet. (But doubting there's a difference). Let me know what you find?
Planning for full speed testing tomorrow. But if you have 10 psi no matter what, that's much worse than what I'm experiencing. Pressure sensor reading OK?
I installed a brand new Yamaha pump. Cold start, 18-20 psi. 5000 RPM 40-50 psi. 8000 with 210F oil temp- gauge pegged at 100 psi. Haven't tested above 8500, but peak temp was 225F so far. Back to 5000 runs 14-15 psi. As this cooled to 195, 5000 rpm was 22 psi. Back to idle 1900 rpm hot... 0-5 psi👎🏻 Testing will continue and I will create a video with this
Have 2007 SBT mr-1 HO reman long block with new Yamaha oil pump installed to Yamaha specs with perfect function until 4 hours of use now with low oil pressure light and measured around 10psi regardless the rpm. What have you found?
@robp418 This system doesn't prevent expansion from cracking a jetpump. The sparks warering is separate, so if it fails it doesn't destroy your jetpump.
so in the video you use the epnoc grease for everything but the manual calls for epnoc on the spacer and in the cone but calls for Yamaha Grease A (Yamaha Marine Grease) is it ok does the epnoc have the same capability?
I did use epnoc grease for the entire jet pump assembly which is made for jet pump bearing lubrication. I read this about the cone, which is the reserve. The Yamaha marine grease is more tacky, the epnoc is thinner, for my application I didn't see a need to differentiate and simply used the epnoc. ( I also pull these cones annually to refresh things and replace grease in the cone) But by all means, utilize the information in the manual to do this as you see fit, my use case with regard to PM's is what I thought to be practical.
Question: (During reassembly of the shaft into the bearings, you press on the race of the top bearing as the shaft comes through) Doesn’t the race from the bottom bearing have too much pressure on it from the shaft pushing through? Because nothing is supporting the race on that inside bottom bearing… Just curious because I’m about to put mine back together 👍🏼 Would you have done anything differently?
The spacer supports the second bearing outer raceway.. off of the first bearing to install. That first bearing has its outer race supported by the step in the housing. @markgattinger3958 I agree that one of the bearing inner races is not supported. Don't see this as an issue though, no other way around it that I can tell anyway, pretty light interference fit and easy to press. You could freeze the shaft ahead of time, and or also could heat the ID of the bearing, both options would reduce or eliminate stress at assembly if you are quick. I pretty sure I would do this the same way next time though, however I respect your question. I built both pf these and now they are at around 20 hours run time and smooth.
Pretty sure yes, for clearance and also rigging so it doesn't get damaged. I've done this 4 times now the same way. (I have more pics showing this I can share if you want them)
Don't try to start the engine. Remove spark plugs, squeeze throttle 100% and push and hold the start button for about 3-5 seconds. Repeat until cylinders are dry. Reassemble. If you try starting your engine with water in the cylinders, engine failure will likely occur
Hi What should be the slip on the supercharger with an all stock seadoo RXP260RS 2013 model ? Mine has been rebuild, but the SC is out the ski now since been doing the Carbon seal. Just want to check the slip before I put it all back together Thankyou !
Question was those piston pushed or turned back to normal position I'm asking because I have a C clamp and I seen those before where there actually turn instead of pushing
Nice! Yes, I've had two of the Kohler engines fail from cracked blocks both due to bolt loosening. That's the reason I switch these to different brands.
Yep, in fear of that cost I took a shot at this myself. Big reason I wanted to share what I found here to others. What I did was a patch though, the real fix is to simply replace the hose with a new part.
Maybe put a zerk fitting on there somewhere so grease could be added periodically, like on a maintenance schedule huh? .... 😂😂😂 People spend so much repairing because they don't maintain. Oh well, job security. Good job man.
Yes per the book you can, but this really depends on your area and storage. I simply blow my cooling circuit dry on both of my skis, and I keep them in my garage through the winter. Temps in my garage can freeze for sure, but my garage is warmer than storing outside. For a friend of mine nearby who only stores his ski outside, I winterize that with antifreeze just to be certain he has added protection.
I have the same model hustler what is the engine family number for the Briggs? I want to do this same swap. One other question i have is the same the same dimensions?
The engine dimensions are different. This is an Intek. But... When you remove the old engine you will find that alternate engine mounting holes already exist in your frame. I was able to move my new engine around to find the bolt pattern needed, and this allowed my PTO to center correctly. How the exhaust lines up, is a different story. Also, your throttle and cable will need to be changed, the Briggs doesn't use a separate choke. Reply back if you want the part number of an all in one throttle/choke/ cable I installed, this did take some additional modification to fit properly. I can send pics as well.
No, what you see if water still draining after I shut the supply and then rev the engine. You don't want to shut the engine down with the water supply still on!
Sure, I've had mine for about 15 years now. This link shows a near identical tool- www.amazon.com/EWK-Pneumatic-Changer-Extractor-Remover/dp/B06WD64H8Z/ref=asc_df_B06WD64H8Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198065480126&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2677622769099416485&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014927&hvtargid=pla-379007187482&th=1
Haha, yeah.. Two weeks later my new seat arrived. Really wasn't that much more expensive vs installing a seat cover. But in a pinch, that patch actually held up well for 8 days riding.
I have the same engine and problem but on a 2009 A5 thank you so much I watched about 15 different videos and research to see if there supposed to be an o- ring there and how to replace it.
