saw the video and looks pretty easy, thanks for the video. i wanted ask one question the breather plug on the rear in a 2010 toyota venza with the v6 and all wheel drive system do you know if it's a screw in type with threads or push in type no threads? any help would be greatly appreciated.
whats the advantage of these billet pulley over stock??? i have the same motor m156 in cl63 , I'm thinking about doing this if there's a huge advantage but I don't understand why
Hello, I recently installed a new coupler in my 2011 venza, i found the unit online for a decent price compared to the dealership. the installlation went fine, the part looks new and put it in place and my loud noise went away. As soon as I finished and went to go for a test drive i noticed my AWD light is now on, with a code reading C1298. I checked my connections and installation again and everything looks fine, but my awd is not engaging since the light is on. I reached out to the vendor to see if i can get a replacement but no response. Is there something I might be able to do on my end to fix it? Did I miss a step ? Thanks
Does anyone know the Toyota part number for the smaller (rear) bearing? I know for sure that it's NOT 90363-65004. I can't find the correct number anywhere. By the way, the Toyota part # for the large front bearing is 90363-95007, and the dust deflector is 41252-44010.
It's so annoying to pay so much money only to be told to drive slow, considering the laps are very limited. I want to do this so bad, hopefully I can do it sometime this year too.
Draggy 60-130 was low 6s. No other times available. The car would break traction easily from a stop so on the road with performance tires the 1/4 should be in the 10s. At the track we would be expecting 9s. The car was purchased only a few months after this video but it is still running great with no issues.
Thank you very much. You avoided wasting our time showing us the struggles. You spoke about the consideration of using bearing removal tools including the puller. For pulling wheel bearings there are some interesting manual tools available to extract drive bearings but I would also say that once you get this unit out of the vehicle and get it stripped down enough that you can bring it to a shop and have them do the pulling and reinstall the bearings and then give it back to you to put in your vehicle might equal a considerable savings because your vehicles not up on the lift you drop it off at for them to put on a bench and if there's no rush on it they can give you a better price to use the press they have there to do the job plus you get the certification of a seasoned mechanic actually doing the bearing install and saving you the expense of the replacement unit in its entirety but it's still allows you to have a mechanic with a shop and a press with experience and press bearings to actually do the exchange. if you do all the removal and all the reinstall and you just bring the bearing set and the unit to the shop I think you will get a great price considering they can do press on bearings in no time at all so they don't have to charge you a lot of money for that and they realize that you're doing this because you really need the savings if you make a few calls you can probably do very well. 🙏
I also bought that M156 pulley kit from Weistec. Weistec went to all the trouble of making quality billet aluminum pulleys to replace the plastic pulleys MB sells, but they inexplicably use low grade bearings in the billet pulleys. I had one bearing fail within a year of installation and a 2nd bearing fail 2.5 years after installation. Totally crap bearings! Both failures resulted in shredded belts ($80/ea) one tow charge, shop charge to change the failed pulley. The 2nd failed pulley was on a Sunday and I was forced to get a used pulley from a shop and install the pulley on the side of the road. Buyer Beware! Stock MB pulleys may be plastic, but they last years - Weistec pulleys don't do much good if the bearings fail soon after installation.
thanks for the video. ill be getting these billet idler pulleys, nice upgrade. you mentioned the weistec transmission pan.. did u put that in, and is it a worthwhile upgrade?>
Beautiful video thank you so much! Did you drive the whole loop in 15 minutes (did you X up or edit out pieces of the drive)? Was it early fall or something?
Thanks. From what I remember it was the whole loop, I don't recall editing anything out, just set the camera on the dash and drive through. I was moving a little fast though. It's much nicer to hike through there than it is to drive through. The time was January.
Good job bro. The instructor had you brake way early. It's difficult building a rapport with one when there's many random. A good exit speed can get well above 125 on the stretch. Sucks they limit you that low for a super car. Nevertheless, not everyday get to do this.
For sure. Most of the people that show up there just want to sit in a supercar. I guess they get a lot of people who don't know how to really get on the brakes so they are very cautious with brake distance. You're definitely right on the rapport, I'm sure if you could do a couple 10 lap sessions with an instructor they would let you push the car.
I would have to go out and drive it again. Don't really remember that well now. Both of those tracks we ran in Florida were great. I will say, COTA takes pretty good care of their karts.
This video is very informative thank you. I have a 2010 toyota venza, the similar sound you described is driving me crazy on my car rite now, I take it to toyota but they want me to change the whole coupling say they don't change bearing. I ordered the bearing I want to di it myself. How do I take of the part of the drive shaft that's connected to the rear differential without removing the whole drive shaft. Thanks in advance for your response
@@godschild7133 the work is going to be on you. This is a medium difficulty repair from a professional standpoint. If you aren't equipped with the tools and aptitude to perform this I highly advise against it. I was only providing information on the inner workings of this issue which were not available elsewhere at the time, which may still be the case. Good luck with the repair
Great vid, nobody else includes the clips on the bottom of the fan shroud. Do you happen to remember the size of the bolt on the idler pulley on the top passenger side above the alternator? It’s like a torx bolt and I don’t know what type of socket to even look for lmao
The car has the following powertrain upgrades… Downpipes, Black Boost intakes, Pure Turbos 900 turbos, Spool Performance high and low pressure fuel system, Dyno tuned by Eurocharged for E50 fuel blend, Transmission tune by Eurocharged, You can get higher numbers if you want to push it further. Also, you could achieve similar results with methanol injection instead of fuel system mods, it just depends on how much you want to spend and whether you want to refill the meth tank.
the oem pulleys are plastic and are susceptible to high heat (think supercharging) therefore tend to dry rot over time. aftermarket pulleys are made from billet aluminum which are more durable. billet pulleys are recommended when supercharging, but not necessary. i’ve read the oem pulleys are good enough (mbworld forum), but i cannot confirm. vrp sell the set for $530.
Great video - thanks very much for sharing. What year was the vehicle you were working on? Fun fact - according to the EPC, the bottom right pulley that you talk about @4.45 is a ribbed one until engine number 60057841, which is 11/02/2009, with part number 1562020619. After engine number 60057841 it is a smooth pulley which is the same as the other smooth one (1562020819). No idea why MB decided to change the pulley from ribbed to smooth, but just FYI of anyone reading!
Sometimes a manufacturer revises parts due to supply shortage, cost, or changing of a supplier all together. Or the engineers at Affalterbach found out that the smooth pulley perfomed better.
@Subzero2698 is correct. W204 2008 C63 unmolested application here consists of two ribbed idler pulleys. Only ribbed idler pulley after 2009 is directly above the alternator on the M156.
I did this repair about a year ago, I could not find a way to get that bearing with the grove in it as I believe Toyota have a pact with NSK not to sell the proprietary bearing, or Toyota does the machining in-house for that bearing, either way, to buy that coupling is about a couple of grand from Toyota, I was able to reuse the old bearings, as luck would have it.
Im not sure if this is any help to Venza owners since its specific to the Rav4 magnetic coupler The Rav4 magnetic coupler for m.y. 2006-2012 is 41303-42021 and updated with 41303-42025. The magnetic coupler is shared across a few platforms. Look up technical bulletin T-SB-0080-13 and it will give descriptions and part numbers for the Toyota parts bearings and seals and the official inspection and repair procedure for the magnetic coupler.
