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Continental Contact Extreme 2 tires available for Gen3 Vipers (possibly other years). I purchased 4 amazing tires from tirerack (with shipping, installation, and warranty)for just about $2000. Great video, I just humbly offer comments as a fan of your videos and of my Gen3 (black on black on satin black wheels;))
I'm having the same issue but the only difference is that it does not sputter and there are no rough idling, it happens super seldom and only when coasting in neutral. I'm caught by surprise that the engine is already dead as there are no signs that it has died, no violent shaking etc. Any idea on what this might be? Just replaced the AFM but still the same.
Not too bad. It has developed a little raspy sounds at certain rpms and we have had to make a few modifications to fix some leakage. Nothing unreasonable yet, but it's also parked inside most of the time it's not driven.
Try adding exhaust cement into the joint. It lubricates like grease while wet and seals when dry. Failing that, you could always expand pipe with a QUALITY expander.
How does it drive after installing a new Borgeson Steering Box? I never seem to get a good answer as I am on the fence on this box and Rack and Pinion.
It drives well. I drive much more aggressively than most people and it handles much better than with the old box. Rack and pinion obviously is a very different mechanism and needs much more replaced. If you don't mind the money and parts required, a good quality rack and pinion would potentially feel more tight and precise.
What a waste of my time. You literally said you wouldrecommend some better kits and named zero. I watched this longwinded,crybaby ass rant for nothing.
I used to have these exact symptoms, and eventual failure, on my 1991 v6 3.0 4Runner. It turns out that it was the Ignitor. The Ignitor & the coil are both connected by the same bracket. It was an ongoing problem for about 2 years till it completely failed & would no longer start. Oh & by the way, I do have a 1990 Miata, 1.6 that is ready for the paint job, & I'm currently waiting for the machine shop to call me, to pick up my engine block & cylinder head for me to assemble & reinstall on my miata. Anyways, while on the freeway, the same thing would happen to me as with your gal's Miata, suddenly a violent quick stall that would just as fast would reignite the engine. This was usually at 65mph or higher, so obviously mostly on the freeway. And just like your Miata, the high speed at which this would happen, would have momentum enough to quickly reignite the engine. And since my 4Runner is stickshift, it was like push-starting the vehicle but at freeway speeds. Once it left me stranded, my friend & I immediately knew it was the igniter. I ran the pre-OBD2 self diagnostics, & sure enough, it gave a code for the ignitor. I couldn't find the extra OEM ignitor that I jacked from the junkyard, so I bought one from Oreilly's. Turned on right away. I got to point out something else, a part that is similar to the Miata & the 2nd generation 4Runners. That's the AFM, Air Flow Meter, which is frequently confused with the MAF, Mas Air Flow sensor. Both serve the same purpose but the MAF was or is the newer version of the AFM, as I understand it. When this MAF starts giving problems, it can be confused with the CAS problems because they are intermitten problems...once in a while, till it gets worse, then leave you stranded. It will also have you chasing your tail...changing fuel pump, relays, fuel dampners, etc. till it fully fails & leaves you stranded. Good thing is that here in Southern California we have an abundance of junked cars, dry, not rusted nor ruined from salted snowed-in roads. Unfortunately since these same generation cars have parts that are as old as yours, the life expectancy is similar & soon enough I found myself trading in my junkyard replacement for a NAPA remanufactures AFM, which is still good today. If i ever go through these same problems on my miata, at least I know the likely culprit of the problem.
Just to clarify 123ignition never says to not use a timing light. The Green LED is only to get you staticly close to TDC on #1 compression stroke. Sometimes the rotor is between two spark plug lugs on the cap. In that case the next one in rotation is your new #1 and the plug wires should be installed from that new #1 according to the cars firing order. Having someone crank the motor and turning the distributor until it fires is a great way to speed up the process. But remember to always sync the timing on the app with the motor. Here Are A Couple Ways To Help You Sync The App With The Motor. 1) Set a program in your app to 12* across all rpm points. Start the motor and verify that you have 12* at the crank. If you do not simply loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Once you have 12* at the crank, tighten the distributor down. The app is now synchronized with the motor and you can now confidently add a program of your choice and know that it is accurate. or 2) Pick any point along the curve and verify with a timing light that the point on the app (both the rpm and degree) is the same at the crank. If not loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Then tighten the distributor down.
I have the shiny sniper and my FPR was full of black substance. I have in tank pump with sock, after pump filter and a before carb filter. So where did this stuff come from ?? I believe today’s gas is breaking down the hoses inside and making the mess.. just my opinion. So I’m going to run all new steel lines and eliminate the hoses.
The fans only receive power when they are switched on thermostatically, be that by thermoswitch or ECU. That's one of the big perks to having a relay in the middle that is switched.
It is BOTH a cam position sensor AND a CRANKSHAFT position sensor. It is driven by the camshaft, but if it only had the cam signal, it wouldn't know where the piston was. The Miata CAS has two rows of circles cut into a disc. The outer row has 4 symmetrical slots and this is the spark signal for the four cylinders. The inner row has two holes or slots, one being 3 times larger than the other. This gives it a dot - dash sort of signal. The two inputs together tell the ecu relative piston position and which cylinder to fire. Some CAS are Hall Affect sensors and some are optical with diodes. Both have a shutter type system. BTW, our Mazda Miata CAS is made by Mitsubishi.
It still works well, no problems to report. I am contemplating moving to rack and pinion so that I can free up some space and play with the front end setup more, but that is more for really aggressive driving/racing.
@@AmbiVe My current gear box is 100% clapped out. So, I considering this conversion to save having to rebuild all of the factory components. Appreciate the quick reply!
That's why I did it. It was a better setup for me than the factory style, feels good, and I figured it would be a decent upgrade over the old system. There isn't a real one size fits all for steering solutions. Good luck with the project!
It would depend on what kind of ITB setup and how well tuned you were trying to get it. At least this unit would be hard. To do ITBs correctly you should probably have a more flexible system that you can properly measure individual pressures, EGT per exhaust tube or bank, etc. I haven't thought of it much, but I would probably look at a standalone solution or something specifically made for the purpose of a properly tuning a system like that.
At the time, the subs were in separate narrow boxes tucked behind the back seat. They wedged in against the metal framing and hump of the trunk to look like the back of the seat. When I remade the system this last time. I made one large box that sticks farther into the trunk, but is fully sealed and running two beefy Skar audio subs with a new amp.
A lot of these symptoms are what my 95 Miata is experiencing right now. The car would run and drive fine, but when I would put it in neutral and coast, the RPM's would drop very low and sometimes stall. This wasn't a super bad issue until just a few days ago when I was starting it to go to class, it started, proceeded to shutter and die and now I can't get it started. I am assuming its the CAS, any ideas?
Not just doing the CAS. It is keyed to only connect one way. It is simply a pain to figure out which way that is when you're upsidedown and backwards in the engine bay ;)
Did this project require an additional port being added to the intake manifold somewhere to support the idle air control valve? If yes, where was it located? Thanks in advance.
Does there need to be any kind of cap over the hole at the base of the piston where you connected the air compressor to extend the piston or that just stays open??
I've been having a similar issue with my VVT swapped 91. It'd stumble at both idle and load. Since I'm running a Megasquirt ECU, there was a "sync loss 31" in the data log, which points to the cam sensor. Apparently they're prone to failure on the NB's, but from doing some research, Mazda has updated the design in recent years, so the failures aren't nearly as common.
So what would be the reason my single ground temp switch doesn’t turn my fans on but if i unhook it and touch it to ground , it works perfectly .. the ground wire is directly mounted into the relay ground
Useless video. "I need to figure out the best place to put the wire. I finally found the perfect spot. I'm not going to show it though. Good luck everyone else. I dont know why I made this video"
Thanks! My knob just broke and I ordered new ones from Moss. Didn't realize how easy it was to change just the knob...G-d I love RU-vid videos and guys like you...thanks again...
That’s why u have Holley retrobright, Holley and morimoto collab and they make a period correct led sealed beam type headlights. And they are excellent for classic cars.
I have a 1992 Miata with a 1.8 engine swap and basically whole drivetrain from a 1994 model. I had a similar issue, was driving and hit a rather bumpy patch of the road and immediately after the tach dropped to zero and it felt like the whole engine turned off while I was still doing about 40 miles an hour. The engine turned back on in like a split second. But after that incident it did it 4 more times on the way home and every incident got a little bit worse and sketchier. When I pulled in my driveway the car was idling fine but the fuel pump was making a weird noise. Almost sounds like a washing machine running in the distance if that makes sense. Does this sound like a CAS issue to y’all? Any recommendations? Thanks for any input I really appreciate it.
It sounds like you have something loose. Since it died and runs so rough, I would check that the CAS didn't move and mess up timing, that all your ignition connectors are right, your coils are tight, and your grounds are all clean and tight.
I bought a ISIS-Power/Infinitybox ages ago for my MkIV Supra and haven't been happy with it. I'm already using an EMU Black so I think installing the PMU16 is a no-brainer. You're running the whole car with a singe 16-output box? I think my current Infinitybox setup can handle 20 circuits (10 front, 10 back), mostly using the front ones.
Hi, Thank’s, i ‘ve to do the same thing. I just removed the valve cover but i’m blocked with the cam. Before to take-off the pulley you do not make marks on the belt and pulleys? Thank you for your answer, i have my head in the engine 😂
I just went through all this with a sniper unit intermittent running issues on stalling..took apart to check the regulator put a gauge on it 75 PSI. all the powdercoating inside the regulator area was coming off. super poor design !!! spend 2 hrs with a Dremel and small pic removing every trace of powdercoat. I'd already plumbed return line otherwise I would have used a wix LS fuel filter if I'd known that's the PSI needed. I removed all the holley regulator and installed a aeromotive one w/ a guage.. so far hasn't not started yet.. Holley should honestly have to recall every sniper that's been powder-coated because it's going to be a problem for every single one eventually
