I’m also doing a second battery for winch and better stereo. However- I need to make sure that i still can do servicing on the driver side fuse compartment. And while thinking of it-making sure regular maintenance is possible everywhere. I.E. stock set up.
@@fisheeplays5249 Make sure your gain is set properly. Also don’t have your bass boost on your head unit. Try not to use it on your amp either. If turning it off on the amp completely kills the bass then check your lpf setting. If it doesn’t fix it go ahead and turn the bass boost on but make sure the gain is set properly after you turn it in.
@@NathanC-YT if I have no bass boost on I have nothing coming out. But after doing some research my head unit only has a 1.5 volt pre amp and I’m willing to bet that’s my problem or at least what I should change before going any further
No, I would compare it to stock but maybe a little better. Its been so long since it was stock for me to give you a accurate response. You still have the vents back there for sound to go through. With the seat up you can’t tell a difference with sound though. If you combine what I did and the stock deadening it would reduce road noise I would imagine. I “replaced” stock deadening with the kilamat. Long story short, I drive the truck every day and don’t have a problem with road noise.
Thats exactly what I did in my 2003 Silverado. I had 2 4 channel amps mounted back there with plenty of room to spare. I have a 2012 Sierra now and it didn't look like there was enough room so I mounted my amp to the floor on top of trans tunnel.
To be honest they were ok but I am switching amps and speakers. If I were you I would go with a more reputable brand. You get what you pay for. I am switching to a focal Amp because the Skar amp stopped working for no reason and I just had a difficult time dealing with them. My doors will have pioneer speakers soon. Kicker has good replacements and upgrades for doors speakers and subs. Yes, you will need adapter plates for any after market speakers because the speaker and mount are all one piece if it is OEM. Use Crutchfield.com to order all of your stuff if you can. Provides you with free adapters and great customer service. Plus they do all the research for you, just put in what vehicle it is and it tells you what fits.
@@NathanC-YT Gotcha. I didn't get scar amps. I got the D4S amps. But got the skar 12s and 2 pair of the skar 6.5s for 2010 GMC. My boy is 17 so he can work for the good stuff.
@@tobylynn75 Thats how it should be. They will be fine, I didn’t necessarily have a problem with the 6.5s. I just have a grudge against skar now and the new amp is rated higher anyway so I have to swap them out.
What size of screws you used to hold the board ???? I wanna do one caouse who ever owned the truck I got now put some big ass screws all the way out of the cab
Take a look at my other video on the amp rack. This one is a prototype and is only attached by the factory bolts on the left side. The actual one I put in is attached by those bolts along with L brackets I bent to fit the amp rack and wall. On this truck the top of your back wall is double layered unlike the bottom. It is very obvious if you remove your insulation. In this video you cannot see the double layered part because it is behind the insulation above the rack. Hope it helps
Forgot to mention that it didnt hold the best when I did it so I added some glue/caulking behind the board to hold it better. There is plenty of better methods but at the time thats what I was working with.
When I did mine in my 03 I used Loctite instant grab in a caulking tube. I love that stuff and use it at work all the time. Its like liquid nails but has instant sticking ability for most things. I used aluminum foil HVAC tape to secure the plywood while the glue dried for a few days. After there was a slight flex accross the top because the wall isn't flat so I used self tapping screws with fender washers at an angle into the double walled piece and caught the edge of my plywood. 👍 Turned out to be my favorite install yet.
It’s really weird gm took out the plastic shim that goes inside and hooks into those small tab holes (the one you advised to cut below) the plastic would solve the rattling issue it’s in 07-09 trucks
Figured I’d share some car audio knowledge with you. Getting system tuned. Requires you to start at head unit and then to the amps. You can’t just tune the sub amp and not deck abs 4ch amp but Definitely requires O scope or DD1. Subs don’t need or require a break in period. For what your running. You’re ALT will work fine. Sure you’ll get better voltage with a $509 upgraded ale but your baring running 2,000 watts anyways. Get decent battery’s up front as far as the sub amp not getting enough power ? Lol that makes no sense at all unless you somehow ran from battery into 4ch and daisy chainsd over to sub amp. Which would make no sense Long as that power wire goes straight to amps. It’s not possible unless you’re battery / Alr etc is draining before the amp sees them And if you’re popping a fuse. Then there’s a problem
I do not a definite answer but I have a pretty good idea. My head unit was going out and the preamp output was diminishing. The preamp would vary causing the amp to have those issues. I have gone through 2 head units since then and never had the issue since.
I really like your truck! I'm also interested what box you got up under your seat? I recently bought 2 10 inch skar audios with a face down design non ported box, and definitely not happy with it. I have the SkV2. 3500.D1 amp and been waiting to find a box like you got for 4 8's but I was kinda scared to pick out a box
Thanks! My box was built by SoundOffAudio. That guy makes vehicle specific boxes for everything. He does make a dual 10” front firing box but not for my body style. A little pricey but it is what it is. Im happy with it. Now I will say I got this pre covid and it took well over a month maybe 2 months before I got this thing. Awful long time and I even got to the point that I thought I got ripped off. Ive seen a lot of quad 8 systems in trucks and they get down. Id go with some higher than 400rms a piece. I give mine 2000rms at 1ohm and they handle it. They are the MA series which is discontinued.
The voltage isn't going to change with the new alternator. Sounds like your amp is going or a short or a wiring issue maybe. I don't know what would trigger that,:problably 15.2 -15.5 volts.
@@daklassickone303 yes sir. Im posting a vid this week about the Carven cat back kit exhaust, Stay tuned! Thanks for stopping by I hope the vid was useful.
Very good tips bro. Glad I found a video how to put my amp rack behind the seats. I have them on the bottom but they get hot with all the carpet around and ventilation. Skar Audio makes good products
Same as my battery setup video. Good stuff bro. I just finished installing infinity kappa all around with dual pods on front skar mids. You should take your truck to tune Audio shop professionally to find the problem. Hope you get it fixed
I use a meter and oscope. Im pretty confident. Also I took it to a “professional” shop and they messed up my system and I had to go back behind them. Thats the only one near me and thats like an hour away. I do need to take another look at my sub amp though and go over it again.
I wouldnt. That goes to the outside of your truck. Its just a very thin layer of metal there and it probably would stay because the screw has nothing to attach to if that make sense.
I have a 2013 silverado crew cab I have a box under the seat and on the double seat side a 3000w amp fit perfect behind the box and I used industrial strength velcro to hold it to the carpet simple yet effective
