Welcome to my channel, where I bring you on an exciting journey through my builds and share valuable DIY tutorials. With a passion for all things cars, I create engaging videos that showcase the exhilarating process of transforming vehicles into awe-inspiring machines.
Off the line is better, towing is better. Especially off the line. I was towing a 1ton camper. Had to go low range to get through some intersections. But with the swamp i could get through no worries
@@Finndawg I can change the cabin filter on an E36BMW using only a mechanics screwdriver. I can change the crankcase vent vale on the BMW M62 engine without removing the intake. The small block I put in my 1965 GMC pickup is so highly tuned all I must do is shake my key chain and it starts right up.
I was at a building site once where I kept seeing bits of bread around. I asked a foreman what was going on with what I thought was the welders' bad lunch habits. It turned out the welders used the bread to plug small diameter pipes to avoid a draft (which would blow/suck shielding gas away) when welding. The bread would eventually just wind up in filter elements or largely dissolved and removed. Bread finds many uses other than for eating.
Hahaha, I managed to make it work bro, it was alot of f-ing around and very "custom" I'm pretty sure I plastic welded a fitting into my original air box.
Hey Finndawg, do you have a photo of the head gasket (as found) when you pulled this engine apart? I just wanna see if some water jacket holes are blocked (covered) by the gasket.
Sorry for asking a question on an older video. I just bought my first Diesel vehicle, a Ford Ranger 2.5 WLT. If I did the hose swap mod and added a adjustable boost tee, what would be the safest boost pressure to increase to? If I'm not mistaken these engines, standard, operate at 0.8 bar boost. Would I need to make fuel pump timing/fueling adjustments if I increased the boost to say 1 bar? How big of an impact would this boost increase have on the reliability and fuel economy of the engine/vehicle?
can run low 20's (psi) comfortably. As for the fuel/air mix I think i've addressed that in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qOX7o-wLn74.html
Hi again, can I ask where you got your parts from, when I searched, they were only available from Japan and there were a 39 and a 40 tooth gear set, do you know the difference, cheers
great video, exactly what my RAV4 is doing at the moment, just had to replace coils and plugs and took it for a test drive and it started to pop out of 5th gear, thought I was up for a new gear box until I watched this, so thanks very much, cheers
Something to try would be get 2 boost needle guages and put them at either end of the system and observe. Have both hoses the same length. tape them to windscreen?
Hey mate love the Ute goes hard! Have to get the utes together after you finish your build and I put my touches on her! Love the channel and the content bro!
Glad you're enjoying her dude! Hell yeah if you're down we will get the Ute's together and run over everything and do an update on how you're liking it! Glad to hear she's serving you well bro, alot of love and time went into her
The 4JJ1. I have read that these engines are very tolerant to overheating. These are indeed great engines. Isuzu is said to the best probably. If I could just divert you a little, my WL-T loses about half a dip stick of oil in a month. Doesn't overheat, no black or white smoke while driving, no oil smells either. However, I've seen the oil seems to leak slowly from the front left (cold side) just where the head sits on the block. I wonder what could be the reason for that. I've already replaced the head gasket with a Japanese built one but this problem persists. If you could shed some light, that would be great. All the best with the 4JJ1.
Hey mate, thank you for your comment 👏 it's really hard to diagnose without having my hands on it. It could be as simple as a tappet cover seal, or it could be as complex as an oil ring on a piston letting small amounts of oil bypass so the smoke isn't noticeable. That does sound like fast oil consumption though so I'd be exploring leaks, maybe even rear main seal or something, degrease check regularly and try identify where the leak is originating.
Hey mate, was wondering if you knew if you would be able to change the auto hubs to manual hubs without converting the entire diff? I have an 02 courier with the spline end CVs (not a nut on the outer end), so was wanting to put manual locking hubs on it to reduce wear and tear on the CVs, diff, etc
These big gears and the bearing can be used but generaly the matter come from synchro rings (brass parts), sometimes in the cage the synchro steel gear can be broken.
Hi, i have noticed from your previous video you installed an oil catch can and i noticed in this video no oil catch can insatalled. Is not good? Reason why you uninstalled it?
I ended up just removing no it, no particular reason, but all it really did was stop oil pooling in the intercooler, they're much more important on engines with EGR's present
In theory, the pressure should be the same from the turbo to the manifold. It's not a liquid, it's not flow. Unless there is a massive restriction in charge piping, this mod should make absolutely no difference.
If you’ve got an oxy-acetylene torch you can heat the deck in a large section around the bowed out spots and shrink it back by cooling the high spots with a wet rag. Check out some videos of flame straightening sheet metal Looking good though man I’m working on mine right now
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Really depends if you have an EGR or not, if it's pre-egr I'd say they're not as important, with EGR they're definitely worth installing.
Thanks. What diameter is the pipe you put over the bleed nipple? I bought a cheap kit that has a tiny tube - no way will it fit over the nipple. I think I was meant to jam in this tapered bit, but I couldn't get it attached.
@@Finndawg Thanks anyway! I appreciate it. Yes, I used some clear pipe from Bunnings that was 5mm OD from memory. It stretched over it and stayed on fine. Thanks again.
I know i'm a year late to this party, jsut wanted to pich in with my thoughts. I think it is because of that masive inter cooler you have along with the rest of the mods on the intake line reducing the resiscance. there is basically no pressure drop accross the intake line and in fact may even be more presure drop over the narrow hose wtih friction. This machine might benifit from as small length as possible from the intake to the compensator. And probe the boost reading from a different line rather than making a T . Probibly pennies to be mad in the difference though. Let me know what you think of this as an idea. From what i know, this mod helps systems with a little more inpedance in the intake line to get going. As mentioned by another coment, you may be much beter off seeing if you need to clean the inter cooler first.
That inlet manifold is not gonna have equal air flow per cylinder. That is making it a much finer balance of EGTs/soot/power and makes tuning much more limited. That would be the next thing to address IMO. Great build otherwise.
That's where firing order comes in, as well as the fact that the intake is charger with pressure from the turbo, I'm sure in higher performance applications what you said is definitely valid. But in this case I think it's perfectly fine.
On its side? I think I used the oil cooler holes, but I can't 100% remember, i just found some suitable holes on the side and smacked some bolts through
I have the same ute and want to do the bearings tomorrow but whenever I search the Repco site it comes up with a bunch of different variants that say they fit the vehicle.I am probably best to go in store and see the..
@@Finndawg I've a Mazda bravo Wlt and it's got a oil leak but I'm not sure what it needs I think rear main seal and exhaust manifold , would you just take it out and rebuild it or what do you think , I suspect it has a rear main seal as the rwc mechanic said and I cleaned the area and it looks like it could be
@Idopainting I'd do the manifold gasket see of that fixes it. Could maybe be the tappet cover too. If not just work your way down. I'd just do rear main and clutch at the same time I'd only rebuild the engine if it felt like it was getting tired.
@Idopainting I probably wouldn't rebuild it then, I'd start with the obvious anywhere you see oil follow it as high as possible and then replace any related gaskets. If all else fails go for that rear main but that's a pretty big job so I'd even let it play out if it's not terribly bad.
Hey mate, there's a link in one of these rebuild videos on my channel in the playlist that has a link to a Google drive in the description that has all the overhaul manuals and stuff
