On this channel you will see mainly vehicle related videos mainly containing Mercedes Benz's although I do film quite a few car shows/meets. There will be the odd video that is not vehicle related such as exploring a water tower, but videos like that are few and far between.
Love the Brit accent, but you short shrift your video when you mumble...open your mouth and use your tongue, it's not all lips. For anyone not acquainted with the accent, it's not good.
Anyone know if it's possible to retrofit the post facelift W124 wiper onto the pre-facelift cars? I think the post-lift wipers clamshell comes off more easily.
my 190e 2.3 also does that rough idling but only for about 5-8seconds after startup and after that it jumps on the normal 1000rpm idle for a while and comes back down to 750rpm normal idle. it doesnt do it always but most of the times. what could be the issue? i changed the breather hoses and it didnt fix the shaking on startup but it did make the normal idle more smooth.
Hi, nice video!! Would you tell me the colour of the wire you connect individually at the 3 point sensor? I got only four wires on my car (connected like yours) but no wire for the single pin. Many thanks in advance!!!
I went online on Amazon and bout a radio wiring kit, comes with all the connectors that I took out and used for this plug instead, was cheaper to buy a kit than the connectors alone.
Would have been helpful to tell viewers where the sender is located as it's not self-evident if you lift the carpeting in the trunk. Let me address that for those needing to do this job. The sender unit is mounted in the trunk / boot behind the vertical carpeting tacked onto the rear firewall. You won't immediately see it because it's high up on the same plane as the lid hinges to the right of centre. You're gonna have to kneel to see it. It requires a 46 mm socket to undo - worth getting as you will also need it to undo the fuel strainer. It's only a tenner. *NOTE* that senders can sometimes be repaired / cleaned and put back into service. Worth having a go because new senders, if you can find them in stock, go from £100 to £200 notes. Second hand they're easily £90 upwards - and at that price you have to wonder if a thirty year old + sender, that's most likely as old as the one that just failed you, is an economical buy.
My apologies, I personally thought it would be obvious where the sender is knowing the fuel tank is in the boot. I'm not sure where your looking but most fuel senders I saw were around the £30 mark which is what I paid for that one if memory serves me correct.
hi, hope u can help, does the ignition tumbler can have issues where the car cant start? for example my car w201 has dashlight on, and fuel pump working, but when trying to crank, no crank or start occurs (no start), new battery has been installed, and previously the car dies all of sudden when driving and all electrical power goes off, can this be the reason? Desperate for help Thank you!
Sorry for the delay, yes it can, if you watch one of my newer videos my ignition switch broke where it would crank the engine, start the pumps and bring on the ignition lights and the engine would run in the crank position on the key, but would die when they key was put back on run if that makes sense.
Mate I apologize for wankers commenting on your accent. Your video massively helpful. My ignition won’t unlock at all so I going have break the tumbler. 1985 190d 2.5
I believe it was plugged in and it was tested as it received the signal from the antenna and converted it to dab, unless you mean the antenna connection?
Truthfully I'm not sure, some previous owner did some bodging in it's past which I took out nearly 10 years ago so I just re-used that power source, but they should take the power from a power strip behind the plastic panel underneath the dashboard.
Can the drain holes get clogged up at the bottom end and do they need to be cleared too? If so do you know how to do this? I know there are wire kits etc available. Thanks
If you solder the two flat strips on rear of rheostat together, (the corroded ones), your lights will work at full brightness only, a good cheap fix. Cheers from Tasmania!
I changed both engine temperature sensors (4-pins sensor and 3-pin sensor) in my 1990 MB W124 230E. New sensors are original mercedes parts, but engine temperature gauge is still dead 😮 I have no idea what is wrong here. 🙄😐
I had so many problems as well, even resorting to genuine parts bought from a Mercedes dealership that still didn't work fully, so in the last part I just used two different sensors.
Next time find another video to watch, if you don't like watching videos from someone with speaking difficulties you might want to try to find videos elsewhere.
