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Thank you so much! English is my first language and Spanish my studied language in which I'm semi-conversant. So I'm always pronouncing Italian words as if they're Spanish! I would love a video with even more Italian food products covered because there are so many great products that make it to our fridges in the U.S. I appreciate you including a little bit about the places or things they are named after as well! I just recently learned how to pronounce Bresaola and it wasn't nearly as difficult as I had tried to make it.
I've seen people talk about "training" canes, does that help any? I just have baby blackberry plants right now so I'm trying to research everything i can before they get to that point.
I wish I could offer some insight on the subject, but the only training I've ever seen is just keeping them cut back and pulling runners as they pop up. Some raspberries can be trained to a fence, but since we cut our old (brown) blackberry canes down to the ground, there is nothing to train, really.
You should not cut nodes of to start rooting. The node section is the best way to root your branches. I have been fortunate to grow small cutting to root and fruit in 7 months. Click on my fruit picture to see how i grow them. Good luck and hope you have had an abundance of DF to eat.
From what I've read about neem oil it actually disrupts their reproductive system. what do you think about neem oil? We have thousands of grasshoppers this year don't remember there being that many last year but they are stripping everything including some of our fruit trees killing them one by one is not feasible it's the birds would do their job there would be no problem but they can't even keep up.
You can use neem oil. It's not horrible, but it's a last resort for me. It does sound like you're at that last resort moment. It targets some beneficials as well as the pests you're trying to get, so be as deliberate as you can when applying it. I recently found that Rincon Vitova carries hard-to-find Nolo Bait. Worth looking into that resource. rinconvitova.com/microbials.htm
Can't you just dry them on a paper towel? I can't see how seeds in Nature go thru a fermentation process, prior to a seed germinating and growing that may have come from a tomato that fell off the plant from a prior years crop. I would think it just dries out and remains in the soil until the conditions are sufficient for it to germinate and grow.
Soil is full of microbes that will eventually break down the membrane around the seed. But if you want to store them to deliberately plant again in a specific location (rather than the glorious volunteers we've all experienced) you need to remove the membrane before storing them dry. Some folks have wrapped the seeds in a paper towel and stored them, membrane and all, in the freezer, but that's not considered dry storage.
@@Gardenerd Well if the membrane needs to break down eventually, perhaps leaving it intact and then allowing it to break down when it is planted in soil in optimal growing conditions, prior to germinating would also work. In fact, not disturbing the membrane might even keep the seed viable for longer, one would think.
@@emilybh6255 Leaving the membrane on in dry conditions encourages seed rot. It's worth experimenting with, but since the seed coating prevents pre-mature sprouting, those with short growing seasons will want to avoid keeping the membrane on the seed.
@@TC-cr2oy Not yet, but I plan on saving some seeds this season for next season. I will make sure I rinse them and dry them completely before storing them. I'll skip the fermentation step. Then in March plant and grow them under grow lights. Or maybe just try to germinate a few seeds in a wet paper towel in a plastic bag and see how it goes.
I'm growing 2 heirlooms this year. They are disappointing so far, less yeild, more tempting to the squirrels and chipmunks. Next year I'm only going to try one, the rest sadly GMO
It is unlikely that your other tomatoes are GMO. They are probably hybrids, which are completely different than genetically engineered plants. There is one GE tomato available to home gardeners that I know of as of this writing. But there is no shame in growing hybrid tomatoes. They are resilient to many diseases, and are known producers (take Sungold) for instance) - tried and true and great for new gardeners and those who don't have space to experiment. It's all good.
@@Gardenerd thanks, my other two varieties are Sunray Gold and my go to cherry tomato Chocolate Delite. Both hybrid as you said above. I'm having really bad luck with the Black Krim which is a heirloom. I learn something new every year. This year the using of a vibrating toothbrush placed against the flowers to get them to pollinate. Wish I learn this trick earlier in the season
We have a number of videos (called What's Eating My Plants - parts 1 and 2, plus other specific videos on squirrels, rats, and grasshoppers) that you will find if you search our channel. We also offer an entire pest control course on Teachable that gives you the skills you need to identify, diagnose, and manage any pest issue you are having in the garden. You can find that online course here: learning.gardenerd.com. There are 2 price points, but only the higher one is shown. I hope this helps.
It depends on the variety. Suyo long are nearly a foot long, whereas Persian cucumbers are 3-5" long. The seed packet will have recommendations for what the mature size should be, and if you bought the plants at a nursery, you can look up the variety on the internet and there should be a plant profile available with that information.
@@Gardenerd thanks you! I think I got the seeds from a cucumber I bought, and "just threw" them into the "garden" area "just to see what would happen". ha ha Thankfully only 4 seeds came up. so I trellised them and watched them grow, half hoping. but, as usual, God has a way of providing! :D I usually just grow herbs and salad stuff. :D
Wow, 16 years is a HUGE accomplishment @gardenerd! Congratulations on a quality run! It’s bittersweet to learn that you’re pausing the cast at the moment, but I’m looking forward to your weekly RU-vid videos ❤. I was first treated to your gardening knowledge when you had your little pop up table over a decade ago at the Neutrogena headquarters near LAX. Thanks so much for sharing your journey and welcoming us along the way!
Wow, that was a long time ago, but I remember that event at Neutrogena. Thanks so much for your kind words, and stay tuned for more great gardening tips!
Thank you so much! You explained that just perfectly!!! So glad to have found your video after watching many that were not satisfying what I needed to hear! ❤
Thanks so much for this information! I am in the high desert of Arizona where we recently had a 10-day heat wave with 100+ temperatures. I used some shade cloth as a cover to shelter my plants from the sun and the temperature. Is this something you consider effective, or is it only to prevent burning? Some of my varieties do better than others--the Early Girl has the most blossoms dropping off, but my Prescott Heirloom set a lot of fruit, though only the size of cherry tomatoes. I am feeding them Fish Fertilizer every two weeks, and they have compost as a mulch. I have been watering them almost every day and only water if the soil is dry 2 inches below the surface. Should I back off on the watering (the high temps are in the low 90s)?
When temperatures are that high, you may need to water more, especially in really dry climates like yours. Shade cloth will help protect the leaves so it's okay to use that. If you notice your tomatoes tasting watery, then make a note to water less next year. That's usually where it shows up first. And if you can get away with deeper but less frequent watering, that will help flavor.
Thanks for a short to the point video. I hate looking for help and have to hear how great the person is, where they live, what their child ate for breakfast, explaining what a rose is..... You did it all in under 3 mins. Thanks.
The best thing you can do is improve drainage so that the soil doesn't get water logged. Keep adding compost and worm castings and top it with mulch to feed soil microbes. They will tunnel in your soil and improve the structure so that it will drain a little faster. And test the soil for nutrient levels more often (it washes out with rains) and keep on top of your fertilizing schedule. That will help the tree endure soggy weather much better.
I don't agree with this at least in the context of a blanket statement. Lots of seeds grow true to type. And you didn't even touch on polyembryonic seeds. Also learning to care for a seedling tree makes you that much better to take care of a real tree because if you had bought a real tree for 25-50 bucks and still are getting bugs and birds and squirrels and not getting fruit anyway what was the point of getting a true fruit type. If you have space or are passionate about it put some seeds in the ground and see what happens. You will learn a lot like I have and get fruit like I have.
Thanks for weighing in. This video was made to address the hundreds of questions we get from people who are first time gardeners trying to grow a tree from seed. They don't yet know the basics about genetics so this is a primer. It's great to encourage people to experiment and to learn more about the types of trees that do breed true to type once they get the basics down.
Sexual derived seeds are useful when trying to find varieties with desirable traits and adaptability that one dose not have access to but one may need to plant many many seeds depending on the perantage of the seeds and the number of traits desired. On the small scale it's best to have simple and achievable goals while using perantage with superior traits and adaptability. Self pollinated seeds have less variability which can pose a big issue. Superior selections can be made from apomictic lines that are known to be variable when grow from seed.
Fruit tree varieties that produce seeds threw apomixis produce seeds that are clones of the parent plant with some variability, these plants will also fruit much earlier on average. A number of species produced a mixture of apomictic and Sexualy derived seeds and they can be hard to distinguish from one another.
Some peach tree varieties do grow true to tipe from seed but that can be kind of useless if variety doesn't do well in your area. Sexualy derived fruit trees seeds can star flowering and fruiting earlier or later than the average depending apon it's parentage with some variability.
I watched your video and you mentioned that lemon trees don't like getting watered often. But what about a very hot climate, like Nevada? I watered mine daily, because of the heat this summer. I planted a dwarf lemon tree in spring. It did very well until summer. All the leaves fell off and trunk & branches look like dry twigs. When it gets to that point, can it still be saved? Should I give it less water even in this Nevada heat? That would be something I would need to know, if I lose this one and want to replace it. Thanks in advance for any advice
This is a great question, and it all depends on whether you are heavily mulching around the tree or not. I have a colleague - Greg Peterson of The Urban Farm, who specializes in growing fruit trees in hot places. You do need to water more during extreme temperatures, but how often depends on your soil structure. Check out his site and follow him for specific advice on growing in the desert: www.urbanfarm.org/
You can use diatomaceous earth to target the eggs, but it becomes inert when it gets wet, so only use it in places where you aren't watering, or reapply once the soil dries down.
My wife started an Asian pear from seeds. She ended up with two trees. I thought she was crazy for wasting her time. Turns out 5 to 6 years later one tree produced 3 beautiful and delicious pears. This year it produced a ton of pears. They were so good that the local squirrels ate every last one of them. The second tree has yet to produce a single fruit.
Ms Christy Thank you for sharing!! Ps You remind me of my dear friend Rachelle who I dearly miss & haven't seen in years You look like her and have same happy & humorous personality!! I cant wait to one day show Rachelle how similar you two are!!! 👍🙂💙🙏🏼
This was my first year growing peas and they have done well except they all of a sudden started turning yellow at the bases in our 32 C heat wave. I made sure to water daily and they yellow kept growing up the plants (now we are July 22) and the yellow parts are drying out. Is my plant dying off now? should I harvest all peas and pull the plants and re plant my fall crop? This was the best pea video I found, thank you! I also thoroughly enjoyed you casually shelling peas while talking.
Yellow usually indicates either too much water of not enough nitrogen. Heat can cause that kind of stress too. Not sure where you are located, but if you planted peas in early spring, maybe March (northern hemisphere) they would be finishing up around now anyway. If that's the case, it's not your fault. That's just their lifecycle. Harvest what you can to take some stress off the plant, and check the soil nutrient levels. Peas and beans don't usually need nitrogen because they make their own, so I'm guessing it's just end-of-life-cycle stuff.
You're very lucky to be sourcing water from a well. We're primarily focused on urban gardening here at Gardenerd, so city dwellers are usually dealing with treated water of some kind. I know some folks on wells, and they also have to treat their water. But if you don't, great. All the better for those beneficial microbes.
It can be a stress response to heat, not enough water, or poor soil conditions. Lettuces don't do well in hot weather, so this time of year, that is the likely culprit.
White spots could be damage from spider mites. If that's the case, then removing the foliage will give them less to feed upon, and then they go away and the plant can recover with new growth. So yes, you can do this with diseased mint.
