Exploring Commodore, TRS-80 Color Computer, Atari 8-bit restoration and customization projects! Join the channel to take part in the weekly saga. Most weeks there will be 1 or even 2 videos. Usually Wednesday is a quick "coffee break" format where ideas are hatched. Saturday is the longer video where projects come to life. I hope to make interesting gadgets and would love to hear your comments on what you are interested in seeing on the channel. I hope my enthusiasm and joy over these old machines shows and that you can make your own projects and videos. Let's explore together! See you this Wednesday or Saturday.
I swapped out my ram chips and that solved the problem! Those would be the first thing I would check from now on. Those Tandy specific chips were probably rushed to market and may have some features that weren't meant to last 40+ years.
You’re a hero! I found your two videos on sprites fun and inspiring. I’m currently researching some classic game history for a book I’ve been writing. Great to see the old school tech again!
ZIF sockets are great, you just need to make the holes bigger when designing the PCB. I don’t know why the legs are so huge, all ZIF sockets seem to share this.
I wonder how the Model-I and III saved and loaded tapes? I don't think it used a DAC. Think it just output pulses. It was notoriously unreliable - nightmares of *C showing up in the top-right indicating a checksum error. Actually of course you didn't hack the ROM (because you can't write to ROM), but a copy of it in RAM. I suppose you could copy the ROM onto a new one with the new values?
I had a similar rgb monitor for my coco3. I didn't understand when I purchased it that it was TTL rgb and not analog rgb. I could only get a few colors to work with the rgb and not the full pallete and spent most of time using the composite mode on the monitor.
Modern yes. Original no. Vintage transformer thrown away, yes. The way I do it is use an inline regulator if needed. What does the weight saving mean unless you are taking it to Mars? Power saving also doesn't matter. The amount you will save on the drive power will make it mean little. I would only throw the insides away if it was totally kaput. It's totally not an original supply now. It's the shell of one. If you want to do that just use all new cables or a new shell.
Ungrounded SMPS are not a replacement for a classic transformer based solution in my opinion. These ungrounded SMPS typically have half the AC voltage on the DC side with reference to ground (or the person touching the DC side). This is because of the Y cap connected between DC and AC for interference suppression.. Maximum current depends a bit on the SMPS quality. But they all do it. Not only can it physically hurt touching the DC side, it also introduces quite the potential difference to everything connected to that floppy drive, including the C64. If you touch any port pins or pads in the expansion slots you risk your retro hardware.
1) I think ZIF pins are oriented that way to cause minimum trauma on installing in breadboards 2) If you are NOT using 2-sided board with plated-thru holes, just ream the holes with a rat-tail-file or ground-hacksaw-blade 3) If you have the fingers of a brain-surgeon, you could grind half the pins at a time on the edge of a whetstone.
Go to WASD and get their template. You can custom design individual keys. You can select based on the row to match the profile needed. Definitely worth the outcome.
When you are remaking an original keyboard for the Tandy CoCo, then you could at least take out the design flaws the Tandy Corporation made. Put the ESC in its proper place besides the "1" and put the cursor keys in the form of a diamond, some Tandy computers have a few function keys, there is nothing wrong with putting them on a row where normal keyboards have them. Some special keys can go into the same row. Invent some extra F-keys, put them in the empty places in the keyboard matrix. The control and graphs keys can be placed in the same row as the space-bar, just like what now is common. Copying without improving is useless. Go for the extra mile, it can't be that hard to outsmart the Hong Kong manufacturer. Even China did it! By the way, I love the epoxy strengthener with the saw blade, that is a solid improvement!
Certainly should correct as many flaws as possible, but as far as satisfying everyone... I am happy with this one and it will be perfect in the Coco 3 which is its main purpose. Although I still would prefer it even in my Coco 1s and 2s. Thanks for the feedback which was appreciated!
Nice video and work here as usual! Saw the line in the description, I'd have to have the scan code and key map correctly. A mismatch would drive me crazy, and for me, it's a short trip!
I would have eventually gotten to the CoCo keyboard, but I'm happy that at least someone did the same thing that I did for the Atari 400, 800XL, the ZX81, and the ZX Spectrum. The only difference is that I will retain the original keycaps, if there are any to begin with. Nicely done here!
I did a project once for the C64 where I used the original keycaps and fitted them onto mechanical switches. It was very nice for upgrading the keyboard. Thanks for the comments!
Great content as always. Question: I'm not a designer by any means, but I'm wondering. When you printed the frame or bezel that houses the keyboard, in the space that is now occupied by the hacksaw blade, can you print a continuous repitition of an "X" pattern as stiffeners? I'm jumping the gun on the next question: CoCo3 Build - What are you doing regarding the GIME? Are you using an actual 86/87 GIME? Or do you have a different solution? The GIME-X has been on hold for a long time. It's sad that there are a lot of CoCo3's out there that are forever out of service due to the unavailability or replication of this one chip.
Good question, as I tried filling with patterns and filling solid and the result is good enough. The stiffener is even better and I believe relieves some of the stress from the PCB. I'm working on the video about the GIME and hopefully can get it out near septandy. But the general idea is to implement its logic and that part is done. Now, it's not sitting in a standalone package, but you'll see better when this video comes out. Thanks for the comments!
I can't wait to see your all new Coco 3 build. In the mean time you've been doing a Trojan job on the keyboard design and build. That was a great idea to use a hacksaw blade to strengthen it all up. I've got one question though, you painted the blade black, I understand that it wasn't necessary to do that, but it does finish the job well. Why didn't you grind down the teeth on the blade as well? Anyway, I really enjoyed this one, a very well put together video all round ;)
I honestly didn't think of that, but I at least placed it teeth side down. The wore pretty worn. If I made more boards I would keep using these stiffeners because it works out so well. Thanks for the feedback and comments.
There is a flat mech-like replacement keyboard membrane for both the CoCo 1/2 and the CoCo 3 called KeyFix2 and KeyFix3. This is more interesting because you could potentially use optically removable mechanical keyswitches. Thanks for the video!
I have a Fix for the 2 and the 3 which are best for adding life to an old keyboard. These are more tailored for an all new build or when someone needs a fresh start. I had to look up what you meant about the optical ones, and wow those are high tech. Next, if someone could come up with a laser and a process to etch custom keycaps... that would help for old Cocos, but I will show how I fix the keys not matching the original layout.
@@acs8-bitzone651In theory, a CNC laser could etch programmed characters into key caps, and the caps could be dipped in a clear coat. The problem is that key caps for older computers are sloped differently and don't have the same measurements. I guess a CNC could cut metal or plastic custom caps, but a CNC isn't cheap and someone would have to first program the necessary key shapes, characters, and slope information (and hopefully release it into public domain). Again, liked the video. We retro people keep looking into repair tactics. They may spoil the "purity", but if it preserves the knowledge I think it's worth a look. I teach CS at uni and so many students don't understand basic computing at all. These machines help preserve the legacy knowledge.
@@acs8-bitzone651 That's exactly what the maker of the CoCoMECH keyboards does, with his own laser engraver. I don't have one, but I've seen photos of CoCoMECH's installed by other CoCo 3 owners, and they look very nice!
That is a good suggestion and what was tried in the first model. I have now refined the design through 4 or 5 iterations. With 100% fill which is the strongest that the plastic can be, it is stiff enough. The reasons for trading plastic in exchange for epoxy and the stiffener bar: quicker printing, less plastic, and stiffer frame.
@@acs8-bitzone651Makes sense and takes something that otherwise would be trash and puts it to use - not a bad choice. Probably could also use nail files and Emory boards (for shorter runs. They wear out also. Maybe folded steel screen. You might really have something here. Popsicle sticks (short run) after enjoying the ice cream. So much that goes in the bin we could use!
Nice work with the keyboard! Looking forward to the CoCo3 mainboard build! Did you experiment with printing a zigzag pattern into the channel of the keyboard frame to make it more rigid?
Yes I did. It does work out okay. I didn't make it clear in my video but I was wanting to go even further with the metal bar. And... I really like it with the metal bar.
It's a design of my own that I'm still tweaking and also considering whether it would be part of a kit for sale. I'm trying to gauge whether it would be desirable for Coco 1s or 2s. It will be perfect for my new Coco 3 though.
$40 is not pricey at all. It's on the cheaper end for ABS double-shot keycaps. It's not uncommon to pay well over $100 for a decent set. Prices just started coming down to due to high demand and increasing competition. By the way, why not map the keyboard scan codes to produce the Coco equivalent instead of relabeling the keys?
True, true. Those caps really have a nice touch and feel, for sure. These were made by Keychron if I forgot to mention it in the video. As for remapping the keys, see my explanation in the description under the video.
