They are pricey but worth every penny. I’ve seen so many that are decades old come in to be repaired and leave running beautifully. Always normal maintenance items.
There’s not really a magic measurement. You just want it in a paste so that you can work with it. Not too wet and soupy, but not too dry. You’ll understand when you start to mix it.
That is a great question. I do not remember what it is for either. I just looked for it on their replacement parts page and it’s not listed there. You could screenshot that part of the video and reach out on R2R or email them directly. If you find out, let me know too. 👍🏼
We're open to the public Thursday-Sunday 11-5 while we work on installing new tanks, but give us a call or text and we can set up a time if our hours don't work for you.
@@Reefahholic yeah, i get your point though i’d say if I had that then id save up then sell that and get a generac, at least something that can supply a lot more energy and store a lot more fuel
Thanks for posting this! I never questioned if it was alive. I think the question is, what's alive in it? And how can we insure that it is the right stuff for our Corals? I love that you actually got a visual on what's happening in the concoction. 👍👍
Great questions. The way it behaves in the system seems to be beneficial, but, more testing is needed to fully understand some of what’s going on. I think Allan plans to send a Aquabiomics and perform other testing. I will continue my testing as well looking at what it’s actually doing with Chemistry, nutrient impact, consumption/ growth rates, polyp extension, bioavailability, and if it has the potential to help with Cyano, Dino’s, etc. It could feed them. I have some hungry Ostreopsis Dino’s still lurking here, so we will see what happens soon. :-) I will say that it does appear to have good bioavailability as I’ve never seen other coral feeds provoke the same reaction from the corals.
I’m going to have to try this. I’ve got these little bastards all over my current tank. I’ve been hoping I can move some of my colonies over to my new tank, but I’d like to try to keep these things out of it if possible. They really ruin the look of acro frags
Absolutely. They are little devils! Just rinse really well after the dip. 3x and blow all the medication off with flow. Really effective dip as long as you can remove the coral from the tank. Big colonies encrusted to rocks are sadly not doable, but the worms tend to have more of an effect on smaller frags and mini colonies unless they’re fully infested in the main skeleton itself or near the skeletal base closer in from the outter encrustment.
My solar batteries kick in when my Texas Grid power fails. Will run all the 120v power in house for 24 hours (3500 PSW Inverter). If it's too cloudy for solar panels my 3,500 watt inverter generator is push button start and will recharge the solar batteries in 5 hours. My spouse of 51 years can start the generator. Or turn solar on/off.
I have a 30 gallon with 2 rocks about 10” each. Mini colonies/frags with spinoid worms and red bugs are all encrusted. In your experience could I treat them on the rocks in a large container as long as I wash them off
I think so. I have treated multiple frags on plugs and rinsed them really well and the tank is fine. Just rinse several times before you put them back into the system.
The main difference between the kalkwasser products sold for aquarium, besides knowing what their contamination rates are, is the pH after mixing. The older the kalkwasser is, the less the potency, due to the reaction with atmospheric CO2.
@@Reefahholic The reaction I was referring to was the one that occurs during storage of the CO2 present in that container, with the calcium hydroxide. If the container is well sealed such reaction will occur only with the present CO2 already in the container, at a limited rate. The pH is the simplest way to determine if the product is still usable for the aquarium purpose. The pH probe needs to be calibrated prior and after. 12.3 is what you are looking for. The color of the product does not play too much, if the pH is around 12.3. I would think the ESV would be the one showing 12.3 and the BRS showing 12.2, when comparing both at the same time range and with the same pH monitor/sensor. ESV should be the best product in the comparison with a higher quality of purity, which isn't determined by pH measurements. The tendency for BrS products should be to a lesser degree of purity. Normally you get for what you pay in terms of contaminants. Anyways... according to the pH both can be used without problems. I will note here that any comparison should be made with both products new, opened at the same time to be fair to both companies. I used both brands without any problems for years. As long as you storage them properly they should last a very long time.
His main source of phosphates is coming from phytoplankton and the additions to the feeding regimen. It's unnecessary! He wouldn't need the phosphate remover (Rowaphos) at all, if he wasn't feeding all that. Phosphate remover also drops alkalinity and remove elements from water column, which is bad. He wouldn't have any accumulation of phosphates if he didn't feed that much. It is clear that there is an excess of food in the system, when you have a phosphate problem with so many colonies in a relatively small surface area. Water changes are the best for the system to export detritus and organics, and therefore phosphates, in order to solve that problem, besides stopping all that input of phosphates at the same time. I would export detritus as much as I could. I would think he didn't need a sulphur reactor in a system with so many mature colonies like that either. Nice colonies! Stephen knows all that I just wrote! I'm just giving an outside view... it's always refreshing when I get one from anyone about my own systems. I hate to leave a comment that can be taken as a criticism, when the truth is that the system is running really well. I'm just trying to help him with his only mentioned problem. Halide power it is! The last time I received an email from Radium, on March 18 2024, they told me they will continue to produce their 250W and 400W halide lamps. I just though it would be good for Stephen to know that. The new halide company, Aqua Bright Solutions, is selling them here in US. Thanks very much for sharing such a nice video! Happy resurrection day! God bless!!!
I've been using the BRS Kalk for 6 months. So far I have found it to mix great with very little residue left in the container after saturation. As for Polyp extension, I'm not seeing any difference, but man, skeletal growth is thick, fast and sustained.
I used that one smaller container and just ordered ESV again. The BRS was fine, probably more pure, but the ESV never showed anything significant on ICP. It’s fluffier, less dense, and last longer for me.
Ive had this same type of clownfish for a couple of weeks now, black oscellaris.just today, it looks like it is covered in velvet. What can I do to treat it?
Tank transfer every 1-2 days and do H2O2 dips on day you transfer. Use a 5-10 gallon tank. Keep a therapeutic level of copper in the hospital tank inbetwen transfers. Use Copper Power and test with Hanna High range Copper Checker. Copper Power Calculator www.calconic.com/calculator-widgets/copper-power-calculator/5c1f3b80cfbb64001b85c089 7.38 mL to hit 2.5 ppm in 5/G tank.
Dont know where anyone is located but some gas vendors dont even charge for the tank. If you use their product theres no charge for tank rental or fees. Just take it back and switch. They may want a cc # on file but my vendor in the midwest (Delta Gasses) does not. They are a phenominal supplier.
I just buy my own cylinder. I’d rather not have an ugly old half painted/rusted cylinder in the living room. 🙂 However, if your reef is in a location where the tank isn’t seen, it’s probably a good option.
i was gonna get a dual fuel but the added cost made less sense. plus you get less power and you use up more propane than gas per hour. still nice to have in case of an emergency or if you have lots of propane in hand. just dont have enough propane to feed it.
@@bladi-senpai9398 can't even run your microwave with that. I want something that's going to run my air conditioning microwave lights all the TVs I want to wash clothes when I need to. So yeah you do need a bigger generator unless you're sitting in a chair playing video games and doing nothing.
Depending on the density of the liquid it will vary. Typically a drop is defined from .03-.05mL. Water is usually .05mL. Ivermectin is thick. The trace elements dose in my system are about .035-.04 mL per drop. I’d count it as 0.7mL - 1mL per 20 drops. Hope this helps.
I have made a diy scrubber it works great , my ph went from 7.9 to 8.35-8.4+ , you have to recirculate or you will throw money away , I’m only 1 month in but I think I might get 3 months out of 1 litre of media , 5 litres was £28
