@@chrisval78 roller bearings are common on two stroke. There is no oil pressure for standard bearings like a four stroke. When the fractured rod caps are assembled properly the seam becomes invisible
@@diymarine837 I used epoxy.from Fiberglass Coatings here in St Petersburg. I'm fact I bought all my supplies from them. It was the thinnest epoxy they sold and recommended at the time. I believe they now have an epoxy specifically for this use now.
Just regular good quality blue painters tape. I might consider the green. The key is making sure the core is dry. I let mine sit inside with the holes drilled for a week or two. You can tell by the wood shavings that come out when you drill. Make sure you use a drill stop so you only drill thru the top glass and only into the core and NOT thru the bottom glass layer. The. Bottom layer is thin.
@@wingtimeRV7 Thank you for your reply. This is the only video I've been able to find on that bag so much appreciated. My biggest concern is of course scratching. Again... Thank you!
Thanks for sharing this. Great to see maintenance on this sub and I hope you are right that this work will allow for greater speeds. I would think that rail replacement would be needed over much of this line as well at some point. That said, given how little traffic there is on this line it is hard to imagine it is even close to profitable. Maybe this works hints towards prospects of greater use along the line.
Refer to subsection 213.121 in the FRA Track Standards compliance manual. "121(d) In the case of conventional jointed track, each rail shall be bolted with at least two bolts at each joint in Classes 2 through 5 track, and with at least one bolt in Class 1 track." This is class 1 track. The bar is broken south of at least one bolt fastening the rail ends together. i.e. within compliance. Have a great day!
I know this was 3 years ago. But those brake light maybe bright. But these was recorded 1 Lux for the braking light and 0 lux for dim. Very very unsafe to use them because they barely light them up. I would get them change for sylvania zevo led brake lights. Those are way better design and way better response and replicates the light output very well, compare to the incandescent light bulb.
Not sure where your getting your info from but they are way brighter than the original incandescent bulbs. We just did this exact install on a friend's KLR. We did a side by side comparison before and after. All the LEDs used were considerably brighter, LUX measurements on colored LEDs is known to be inaccurate since they emit light on a specific wavelength which makes them appear brighter to human eyes. Also when used behind a colored lense such as a red tail light, all the light emitted from a incandescent with the exception of the color wavelength is blocked.
@@wingtimeRV7 I’m telling u. These led bulbs are horrible. That’s why I would honestly switch to zevo led. The 2 sided LED’s that shoots the light backwards to the reflectors of the zevo, will be brighter than those. They get easily hot when I’m used because with no heat sinks in mind. I’ll send you the link for that. U deserve better led bulbs from a reputable brand, than these horrible Chinese products.
@@wingtimeRV7 here’s the link for the bulbs he tested these led bulbs to see which one is better, handles the vibrantion test, the temperature test, the brightness test and comparison to the incandescent bulbs to see which one is best to replicate the light output of the incandescent bulbs. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bf62jtXho3E.htmlsi=zbuqVWyntAnuvL-c If u don’t want to see in the beginning and just want to see of what he has and then comparison starts, skip to 3:08. This is something u, ur friends, and ur family deserve better than what u have.
@@toyotabrony like I tried to explain to you, a standard lux meter cannot be used to test LED bulbs, especially colored led since they only measure white light. Please see read this: www.testinstrumentsolutions.co.uk/knowledgebase-article/how-to-measure-lux-and-led-light#:~:text=A%20standard%20LUX%20meter%20cannot,specialised%20LED%20LUX%20light%20meter. I can tell you all the leds I've placed on vehicles are considerably brighter to the human eye than the incandescent bulbs. I've never had one fail. Especially on the KLR which is a high vibration motorcycle. They have been working perfectly for four years.. Sylvania leds are polarity sensitive and won't work in some uses.. Some dudes youtube channel opinion is poor proof. If you don't want them don't use em. Please troll someone else's channel.
Because it's a minute and a half quick video.... Not a full blown how to. It's pretty easy to figure out... But to answer your question it's the blue and white wire going to the tail light. Oh and that took 30 seconds to research and find that for ya.
This is not something I would recommend doing. The soft floor indicates rot. Rot is moisture. Epoxy or resins don't adhere to moisture. You also still have the weight of the saturated core. The amount of time taken to lay the tape,drill the holes, fill and sand and paint. You have pockets of void spaces. Water weight, not a good solution.
Well if you watch all the videos I do mention the soft deck was caused by water intrusion thru leaking screw holes and micro organisms that eat the wood. The leaks were repaired and the boat and of course deck were stored inside for several months to allow it to dry. Also after the holes were drilled it was allowed to air out even more for good measure. The saw dust from the drilled core (if there was any) was checked for moisture as well. It was all dry. There was zero water in the core of this deck. This was done over seven years ago. I still have the boat and the deck is still rock solid with zero soft spots. The difference in weight between a few gallons of epoxy mixed with milled fibers and the original plywood core is negligible. Done properly with care and knowhow this is clearly an effective repair.
@@anthonykontos7931 I can't answer that. I can tell you that's the four cylinder. I'd do some research and go get a good look at it. Do a compression test if your serious about it.
Hey dude great video I have a question I saw a guy useing gorilla glue and exterior glue mixture the Apoxsee that you suggest is extremely expensive can you recommend a less expensive alternative?
No experience with anything like that. Since I did this Fiberglass Coatings inc. came out with an even thinner epoxy designed to penetrate and absorb into soft rotted wood.
wingtimeRV7 1 year ago See I told you those onion rings would get the job done! They should have given you a special dipping sauce that goes with them. Keep the videos coming!
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your insight on the LED bulbs. I've been wanting to add those to my bike and was doing some research when I ran across your video. Thanks again for sharing.
Just wanted to do a follow up. I added those light bulbs you recommended, and I couldn't be happier with them. I used the part numbers you recommended, and they are fantastic. I already had the cowling off adding a new windshield, I was able to get to all of my light sockets without taking anything further apart. Thanks once again.
How do I know how deep it is after the whole in the ply wood and how much do I need to use I am in this step on my bait at the moment I need some help :)
Amazing views off that mountain. The 360 camera gives it a great perspective. Do you find it difficult to edit with that? I've been thinking about getting one.
It's a learning experience. The files are huge. But you can create multiple videos from one recording. The phone app works surprisingly good and you can add music etc. Desktop software gives better end results but less features.
@@IslandADV the cool thing is it does not alter the original recording in any way. This was my first time mounting it to a motorcycle. I could have gotten more creative putting it out on a pile to give drone like shots. Check my last two Zipline and coaster videos.. those are shot with the 360
You have to be very careful you don't drill thru the bottom layer of fiberglass. You have to very carefully drill some test holes to determine the depth while watching the chips. The plywood core could be 1/2" to 3/4" thick. If you drill thru the epoxy will just run into the bilge. Not good. Note the drill stop I used.
@@wingtimeRV7 hope this works for you but I don't see how it would work. None of the floors I've repaired had a layer of glass below the deck.so I think your adding a layer of glass/epoxy between the rotted wood and the top layer of fiberglass.dont think this will be a long time fix but maybe you will get lucky
@@antfarmmining7824 any quality boat will have a bottom layer of glass. That is where the deck strength comes from. I'm simply filling the void left by the rotted wood. I did this over five years ago and the deck is still rock solid.
@@antfarmmining7824 I find it very hard to believe Parker doesn't have a bottom layer of fiberglass. I know newer Whalers absolutely do. A sandwiched fiberglass deck has been standard construction technique for fiberglass boats since the 60s. Itmis very easy to drill thru.
