Mr Straight Razor - Jacques I’m a wetshaving educator, mentor and restorer of vintage razors, follow me on this journey with shave videos, honing demos, whetstones tutorials and all things your father did not teach you about shaving. Please support me via PayPal here www.paypal.com/paypalme/dappershaves Other content here www.youtube.com/@dapperstuff - Motorcycles, Coffee, Knifes, Tech and everything in between. ajduplessis72@gmail.com
That shave sounded smooth as . I love tobac but in England 🏴 old name like tabac and bruit old spice was always related to an old man's scent but I love all three 😂
17:40 Nice Jacques great shave. What is the best way to shave east to west on the neck. One side of my neck is east to west and the other side is the opposite.😎🥺
@@MarkDavis558 East to west is very difficult on the neck. you can try inverted blade using whipper blade motion, that said N to S gets the job done too. Shorter blade length will help too such as Kamisori. I don’t have a better answer as I don’t shave directly E-W. I’ll try and cover it in my next video. best wishes
Hello Jacques. Thanks for the in depth video...a lot of great info! I do want to make a comment about the "blue/black" Arkansas stones. They are also referred to as "translucent black" because they differ from the regular black Arkansas stones. They tend to be of a very high specific gravity...and leave a very keen edge. They are mildly translucent but behave more like a black than a typical translucent. Back in the old days they were almost always labeled "surgical black" because of their very high density and fine "grit". "Surgical blacks" can also be of the very dense non-translucent variety as well...but nearly all translucent blacks were labeled "surgical black". Hope this makes sense...thanks again.
Beautiful shave, Jacques, as always. And your lathering style is largely my own too. Must say, that was some “stand” of whisker growth. That lovely Boker knocked them down easily enough. “French point” … is that what you were searching for? Very excellent video.
😂 "Look!..A brush !" Lovely Boker , suede definitely rings louder when stropping , I wonder if it's better than canvas ? I cant be sure , as both work well . Lovely shave and chat 🎉.
Thank you Magnum. at present I prefer suede to be honest, but as you mentioned both work fantastic especially Kanoyama san's canvas, the tick heavy weave. best wishes
@dappershaves I keep experimenting! But I think I'll go back to a untreated Kanayama canvas , my ones too soft now ? Steel quality I believe is the issue on so many of my razors . Thanks Jacques,
😅😅😅 "LOOK" 😅😅😅 Great shave Jacques with German Tools no problems 😊 I have today my 68th Straight Razor Shave on my channel! In Shave picture technique "LOOK '😂😂😂😂
Hi - another great video! For the hard ark stones - people usually use loose SIC powder to flatten and then w/d sandpaper to dress - did you follow this approach for the black ark? I heard they come flat from Dan's but people obsess over flatness
@@MyBlancpain Thank your for the kind words and question 🙏🏻Yes they come very flat from Dan’s and I obsess with flatness to some extent 😂 I used both sic and w/d. best wishes
I'm late again 😢 forgive me Jaques , I love synthetic brushes ....wish I had that Wald looks a winner 🏆. I prefer a light brush. I've a metal one from Gary that sucks the heat from my hand , for me plastic is Fantastic 😂. Can't go wrong with KROPP , good Sheffield steel 👍. Lovely history on that razor, great shave and great chat ! ❤
Excellent review of the Wald synthetic Jacques. Everything you said about brush and handle performance is spot-on in my opinion. I also like that you have pointed out the value of the heel on the razor. I use the heel extensively, but notice that a lot of sharpeners ignore it when honing.
Good stuff, and keeping the razor count down it’s easier said than done. I have been in a cycle that I cull 2 and buy one 😂. Slowing trying to get down to 3- 7 day roll ups. I know I was happier at 21. The only problem is to chose which ones to down size 😂. Have a great weekend.
This is a great channel - thanks for sharing all this helpful content! I have a small La Veinette coticule 40x125mm - for touch-ups, do you recommend I do laps under running water or just clean water will suffice? Also, how many laps would you recommend? I also have a translucent ark on the way and looking to use that as a finished after the coti. For the bevel set stages I try to follow unicot/dilucot with various degrees of success. Still new to honing.
@@MyBlancpain I’m happy you find my content useful and your feedback is much appreciated, thank you! I would suggest finishing under running water, but as with everything else I teach you need to experiment. Similarly wrt amount of laps… if your foundation work is great then 50-100 laps should be good. I work purely of feel and would recommend the same, you will feel how it changes like a sticky or magnetic feedback in resistance. The more polished and flush surfaces are, the more drag resistance is generated when in contact. Hope this makes sense. best wishes
Thanks for the quick and detailed reply! Will be in the lookout for the sticky feedback that you mention - is that particular for cotis or are all stones like that? Also I noticed in some of your other videos you said you dress your black/translucent ark differently on the different sides - what grits do you recommend 220 and 1000? Is burnishing needed in your opinion? Sorry for all of these questions but struggling to find consistent info on the topic online.
I believe that the true benefits with convex honing are only experienced on wedge ground razors, the more grind the razor has the less effect convex honing has. The benefits of convex honing a fully ground razor is negligible, due to the flex in the blade being greater than the flex afforded by convex honing. Even though the convex hone or undercutting is the there, the thinner blade needs less force to flex, therefore making the convex hone redundant. The sound or singing of a full hollow razor tells you it's flexing, if it didn't sing then the convex honing wins. That's why I believe that there are no or any benefits convex honing modern razors. I wouldn't recommend anyone spending the time and effort learning to convex hone, unless they only have wedge or 1/4 hollow razors.
great brush, great soap, great blades, and a great shave! lots of interesting info on the nuances of brushes, blades, and shaving technique. thank you!🤝🤝🤝
@@757History thank you for the kind feedback, it’s much appreciated. yes many nuances for sure. I love your passion in persevering history 🫡 best wishes
Forgive my late veiwing Jaques ! , superb brush and Trevors razors are uniquely beautiful 🎉 my ignorance on brushes is profound, I'm a synthetic brush user for now 😊.
@@dappershaves what a great comparison brush video you could make Jaques, to explore the qualities of synthetics to natural brushes 😀. And thanks for your kind words , 🙏. Regards Magnum 🤣
What en exquisite shave highlighting our South African artisans , Sensei. That brush is a beauty, but the razors are drool worthy ! When I can afford a Woolf blade that design would be my preferred choice. As for the lather , MSC rocks ! The way you articulate the blade properties and shaving characteristics speaks volumes regarding your experience. Have a leke weekend my friend ❤🎉
Great shave with that straight razor! Your videos are helpful since I’m just starting to enter the world of straight razor shaving. You make it look easy. Hope you have a great weekend.
Nice shave Jacques. I don't see any difference when I compare my patterned blades (RWL-34+PMC27) to my pure RWL-34 blades. When you heat threat this steel the PMC27 gets a little softer then the RWL-34. Some claim that the thight twist pattern results in a more homogeneous steel then the ones with a coarser pattern 🤔 I used my Dragon razor today. This is definitely a pasted edge, probably from a belt. If a Zulu grey was used there was no remnants of that in the final edge. This was a nice edge. This steel works really well with a pasted strop finish due to the steel quality and the carbide structure. However, if you put a nice jnat edge on this steel you get the same smooth feel, but there is allot less resistance. The difference is quite noticeable. Take care Jacques.
@@jpo31 Thank you JPO, your observation and feedback is spot-on and much ch appreciated. Yes I believe Trevor does some form of polishing method (probably belt) to finish his Zulu edges. I will eventually Jnat my razor and will be able to give a more informed opinion with RWL34. best wishes
Great shave Jacques! Wrt the damascus vs the rwl it was clear in your video that the edge wasn’t as keen as the rwl. Of course we know that there are so many variables involved in honing that the only real way to compare is to hone both on the same progression and then shave them and see what performance is like. We’ve had the discussion about damascus edges in kitchen knives and there has to be some difference in performance because the steels won’t achieve similar Rockwell hardnesses after quench. There will always be a softer and harder component. Given the choice I would always go with a monosteel edge. My 2c
@@fordlaz7796 RWL-34 carbon content 1.05% PMW-27 carbon content 0.6% During heat thread the carbon will equialize between the high carbon and the low carbon This will result in approximately 0.1% difference in carbon content. However, the RWL-34 will have more and larger carbides. You can actually see this under magnification.
Irrespective of the carbon migration - and to be honest I don’t even know how one would measure what you’ve stated - simply looking at the heat treatment data sheet on the Bjorkmans Twist there will be at least a 5HRC difference between the two alloys at any given austenitizing temperature. This has to translate to different behavior of the two steels during honing and similarly different performance on the face when shaving.
@fordlaz7796 From my practical experience, my Vinlad Damascus patterned steel acts like the pure RWL-34, both during honing and shaving. I have two identical razors with the same steel. These two are hardened to different levels. There is a destinct difference between those two razors. So, I think the hardness will affect the performance more then the pmc-27 steel. Only one way to find out. Try both.
Great shave Jacques! Amazing razors. Are both edges Trevor’s? Looking forward to your use of the Wald brushes. I have 4 of them, 3 of which are synthetic. I generally prefer badger and boar brushes, but I think that the Wald synthetics are the best synthetic knots I’ve used. His badger knot is just next level IMHO.
@@dappershaves I don't _think_ I've seen RWL 34 on a knife but I don't keep track. Nonetheless, its lower working hardness (58-59 HRC), toughness, and fine grain probably make it a perfect candidate for a razor. Given the steel's characteristics, I can understand how you got 50 shaves off of one edge. I've done 40 shaves off of an edge without issues but I tend to update edges sooner than that just to tinker with them. I think I should contact Trevor. I'm very curious :)
Stunning razor and shave Jacques. You sure knew how to tame a Dragon. I love the horn detail. Truly incredible. Glad to hear Trevor will be making razors for poor lads like me🤩🤣❤
