Hi Im Marco! This is my channel to showcase different projects that I do, mostly technology and engineering related stuff such as laser cutting/engraving, drones, FPV, and 3D Printing
@@coalsnail9919 Its not the same as sls printing. You need supports for DMLS because of a number of reasons, but the main reason is thermal distortion due to high temperature. Without supports, there will not be proper heat dissipation and each layer with a down facing surface will distort. You will end up with a bunch of dross forming on unsupported down-facing surfaces and also dimensionally inaccurate parts.
@@RamiShariha what machine are you using and what what are your settings? Are you sure you’re using Delrin and not HDPE? Delrin and HDPE look almost identical but HDPE melts like wax when its engraved with a CO2.
@@laserillusionstech Thank you for the reply bro, I Am using a 130w laser machine, my setting was 100mm/sec speed and power ranges from multiple tries 10% up to 40% it either melted the sheet or it didn't engrave at all ! i bough a Polyethylene Sheet Hard Plastic Sheet Board from amazon. is that the right thing?
@@RamiSharihayeah youre using HDPE which is High Density Polyethylene. That will just melt like wax when engraved. You need Delrin (also known as POM or Acetal).
Thickness generally doesnt matter when just engraving. It only matters if youre going to cut the acrylic with the laser. What matters more is that you use cast acrylic and not extruded. That being said, I usually use 4mm cast acrylic for most of my acrylic engraving projects since I have a 50w laser and anything thicker would need power higher than 80% or multiple passes..
PLEASE HELP.... Brother in which software I can turn 2d photo to 3d and make it ready for 3d crystal laser print... Add reference ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E2CiuCn2MAk.htmlsi=pfdl2veDYdgq4jA-
I like the redesign . Would you be willing to release a parts list for the panels, extrusion, and such for anyone wanting to upgrade? It doesn't look like those are 2020 for the gantry. Your xyz looks better designed than my current as well. I think you missed an opportunity for enhancements, though. These are some personal enhancements I have on mine: toggle switches to enable and disable steppers for each access, this allows safe manual movements without needing to turn off everything. A rotary switch to easily switch from normal use to rotary tool use. A digital temp/flow guage, red dot on off switch. Separate fan and air assist on off, air assist flow adjust , usb in out for camera, etc. I've also designed a wireless dongle to use "not the lightburn pi wireless" this one allows you to use camera and the laser wirelessly and runs on a pi zero. The dongle actually gets powerd from the 2nd usb on the dsp, so no special wiring is needed. Obviously these are all personal use cases, but I think the flow/temp sensor along with the flow cutoff switch are very useful, as well as the motor switches .
Thanks for the feedback! :) Appreciate it. Ill release a parts list for the frame and panels soon on my facebook page. The extrusions are 2020 extrusions from 8020.net. Initially I was going to use 4040, but I figured that 2020 would do just fine if designed correctly and its cheaper. For me personally, I just use my controller arrow keys to move the head to the position that I want when the machine is on, so I dont need any toggle to disable the steppers. I usually try to avoid moving the gantry manually with my hands when the machine is off since the stepper will work as a generator if you move it very fast and could potentially damage some things due to voltage spikes, although it is very unlikely... I also have flow and pressure control already on my air assist lines using a pressure regulator and a needle valve. As for the digital temp gauge, the chiller already has a readout of the actual water temperature, so I didnt need to add any other temp. gauge on the machine. And I dont currently use a rotary anyways, so I didnt think of adding a "quick switch" wiring for it, but will definitely do an upgrade when I decide to get a rotary in the future. As for the red dot pointer toggle switch and the wireless use of light burn, those are very good ideas as well. Will definitely need look into those. Thanks! ❤
@laserillusionstech that is the point of the switches for the steppers. It allows you to manually move them without worry of building a charge. But again personally find it useful in circumstances. And yes I know the chiller has that info, but for me it's nice to have all in 1 spot, and unless I am wrong, you cannot wire the chillers guagers into the dsp ? I don't own a chiller I built my own, so I only know what I've read. And yes I figured you had the flow assist on the lines, it just comes down to ease of use and access. Everyone has what works for them :) just sharing. You definitely have one of the better designs I've seen. I like the idea of a single unit instead of a case built around the laser like I have.
As I said in pinned comment, this video is 3 years old and is outdated. I made this video when lightburn did not have a great way of editing photos for engraving and imag-r was the easiest choice for people that did not have photo editing experience.
Very thorough explanations. Thank you! Question; what is the strength of the laser are you using? What brand is it? Is it diode or co2? This is the first video I have watched where clear acrylic was able to be cut. Would you mind sharing the link for the mirrored acrylic?
is there anyway to prevent smudges on the acrylic after engraving and got a slight problem where some bits are not engraved properly where they appear to be half engraved and half blank, can anyone help?
Either turn your air assist off, or use a nozzle with a larger hole and minimum air assist. You can also use a dc fan blowing parallel to the workpiece to clear the debris during engraving, as seen in my video.
@@laserillusionstech thanks, I will give it a try. Is there anything I can do to get rid of the black dirty bits after engraving, I’ve used rubbing alcohol which removes most of it but you can notice a little bit of the dirt being stuck in the engraving which doesn’t come out even with rubbing alcohol.
@@TarunSonga Im assuming youre using a CO2 laser right? Those small little dots are hot splatters while youre engraving. When they land back on your acrylic, it stays there. Add a very thin layer of dish soap to the acrylic right before engraving. Then when those splatters land back on your acrylic sheet, it will automatically cool, and you can wash it out afterwards with warm water. Dont use rubbing alcohol to clean acrylic. Sometimes it creates clouding and micro-cracks. Only soap and water. Cheers!
