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Thank you for your refreshingly honest opinion and review about this Giles. It's been very helpful in saving me a big lump of cash. Oh, and you may be interested to hear that your old Carisma Coyote is still enjoying life here at Holly Hill 🙂👍🏼
Thanks. It performs better than expected but is so much money for what it is. That's awesome about the Coyote - keep thinking about doing another for myself as it is such a well priced performer.
Hiya. To give you a quick heads up, key parts were missing with no form of customer support to get replacements. We cannot get the diff. lock system to work - major mods needed (seems to be a common issue) and it is wickedly expensive for a plastic chassis and very thin body. Could just be ours and needs bedding in but the noise the gearbox makes is LOUD!
You know folks, I personally wouldn't mind, walking through a full sized functioning eagle. Someday. Maybe an architectural wizard, might be willing to create this very first, space 1999, eagle portal home. 😊😊 ✝️ 😊😊
Awesome, thanks for sharing, love to see each iteration of my model, as it inspires for more improvements in the future :) Little update since the last time, I made a new version, that apart from other changes, addresses the same issue you had with the rear overhang. The reason why I originally modelled it like this was to keep the original geometry and hardware from the kit. Newer model further improves compatibility, but also adds modularity, which allows for more customisation.
I just got the m5c. The sale was insane on it. I'm still trying to dial it in as most my prints are failing. Whenever I print something from the app it's fine, but when I print it from the slicer it doesn't work. it's still really solid and when the prints work they are way better than my old printer.
Are you using the old slicer or have you moved to the newer Ankermake Studio. Just set some TPu to print here. Try turning your build plate over (just in case its dirty). Yeah, really solidly built, prints just as well as the Bambu. What won't print on one machine will always print on the other!
@@Del-Canada Hi. I think I may have had a diecast version many decades ago - probably worth something now if it hadn't been "crashed" numerous times! and no who is Sean Harris 🙂
Ta - the regulator lift and turn may be standard but that was not in the instructions in my box - and as first compressor I did not know the standard - so thank you as without this I wouldn’t be using it at all.
That is awesome!!! I have one that I converted, threw my own axles under it, and has powered ramps and landing gear. It works well, but it is super short, which is ok, I like the way it turned out (a video of it is on my channel). I am in the process of building another, I have a new trailer (with ramps this time), and I want to extend it out a ways. How much did you add to the middle? How did you cut it? Looking for a good method to get it square from the get-go.
Thanks. we will check yours out when we get the chance. Don't worry to much about cutting the trailer straight although a sliding mitre saw would make life easier, as you will be able to hide an uneven cut when you lay in the new deck piece or even recover the whole deck. It's long gone now but measuring from the video we cut in 2/3 the length of the original deck (so if the deck was 30cm we added in 20cm roughly). Hope this helps.
If the turret is big enough to fit all the components it should not be a problem but if you have to mount any part of the system in the hull, then it is a a definite no.
It would be awesome if NASA made a "space bus" type of space only shuttle that looked like the Eagle and it would garner a lot more interest and inspire the general public.
That is very cool for sure! I am a big fan of the terminator series, and would certainly display that figure in the workshop although if it is not perfect. nice job!
Hi. Yes, no problem at all. Just keep an eye on your air pressure - if you do a lot of continuous spraying and the pressure drops to far it may spoil your work.
Hi, am looking to buy this body for my carisma crawler chassis, however my beedlock wheels are ,120mm would this work, brilliant video. Thankyou regards Louie
Hiya and thanks. We actually started off with 120mm tyres and they just looked far to big (they are now on the Bronco) so we had to swap to 110mm in the video
I have the problem that after I clean the print bed with isopropanol, the adhesion to the print bed is terrible. What works best for me is just soap and water, after which I almost can't get the parts loose anymore. (in a positive way😀)
Hi That is certainly something to think about! Because our work is so time consuming every post/video etc on social media eats into the time we can spend actually creating something.
Hi. Have you watched our CMX vs CFX video? The CFX is newer and arguably more technically competent but it does lose out in the climbing test although it has more articulation at the cost of getting hung up! Same tyres, battery and electronics on both.
The A1 is a fantastic printer, really starting to love it. Our version has bed adhesion issues of parts sticking to well, making them hard to remove. However, this was a test; both printers using the same filament, running at the same speed, same infill etc.
You can tweak the settings to fix those issues. Most likely bed temperature and cooling was incorrect. Also you can use the same slicer and get similar results. I use Orca slicer, a fork of Bambu studio for Ender 3 v 2 and I get very good results. Most of the settings you can copy from prusa presets and they will work fine
Hi. It was only this print that caused an issue, wondered if there was a draft but glad ZED_gaming noted he had the same issue. Every other print comes of the M5c flawlessly.
Erm hard one, get a single colour printer for the same money as a 4 colour one, but the 4 colour one has more plastic, yes a hard one, not! 220x220x250 vs 256x256x256, even in just 1 colour guise the A1 is far better priced, only a fool would choose the Anker
HI. Disagree. In the Uk the Ankermake is often discounted to around £330, the Bambu A1 is £509 with the AMS Lite and still £369 without. If it were not for the large build plate on the Bambu it would be going back. The AnkerMake produces equal if not better prints (certainly more often) than the Bambu. It is early days for the Bambu and we have only completed about 40 hours of printing but we are not liking the vibrations the Bambu causes in everything around it - a 10kg laser printer on the same heavy duty stand is getting vibrated beyond belief. Also bambu only accept returns of boxed unused items. In short don't believe the hype of all the paid promotions out there.
@@ModelMarvels Just blown your own attempt of a response by stating the Anker is available at a discount, wonder why that is? And as for the Bambu being less reliable with finished prints, you really need to spend more time with it before giving a pathetic review, I have had my X1C for over 6 moths and it has never once let me down, as for the paid reviews, if you'd spent any time on the Bamby Lab forums you's realise what you are saying is 100% rubbish, maybe you will be ok with the Anker, enjoy
Hi@@Yorkie-9668 As with many business models manufacturers offer discounts, such as Bambu are doing with the P1p & X1 models currently. I whole heartedly agree, more time with the A1is needed, these are early days with the A1 but we can only give out honest initial impressions comparing these printers. Your X1C is a very different beast from the A1 as reflected in the price and if we could justify it an X1 would be sat here!
Plastic by itself is not a bad thing. It brings down weight on the print head ergo less artefacts on your prints. Plastic on the body is irrelevant since it doesn't impact print quality so I wouldn't actually hold that against it. I was initially interested in the M5c as well and very nearly ordered it but with the A1 Mini being announced the temptation of multi colour prints was too high - I now have both the A1 Mini and the A1 and they're really wonderful printers. After printing for 5 years on various machines, this is the first printer where I hit print & don't even bother checking the first layer.
No argument here, although all the use of plastic does mean the A1 shakes a sturdy table enough to cause other items to "walk"; the Ankermake is just so solid! Both printers are a step above the likes of Tronxy, Elegoo and other bed slingers. I think these are printers number 13 and 14 in a long list and both are excellent, they just take slightly different approaches to achieve the same result. Looking forward to printing the same filament at the same speed on each machine to see which wins. The Bambu workflow is really good but pipped by the Ankermake (at least it was until they replaced their Beta slicer with the Studio version). Both machines print flawlessly although I am already noticing an issue with prints not releasing from the bed on the Bambu. First printer was the Eaglemoss Partwork, back in 2015 which seems a lifetime ago - glad things have improved, hehe.
Hmm, not sure yet. Have to do some repairs first. We resin printed all the engine parts (except nozzles) and they are sagging under their own weight - so an fdm reprint is required!
I will get on that for you, as we still have it and it is still going strong. Part way through spraying a 3D printed Battlestar Galactica (black at the moment for light blocking, so several coats of white required).
Ugh, A few days that's for sure. Probably best not to time these things although I know the tracks alone on our 1/10 Rc tank were 70 hours of printing!
