@projecthammer8134 Nice. What if I was to paint an older shed, in good shape? Like if I were hired to paint one for someone. Thinking about offering this service in my area.
Can you break this down for me? Did you use the foam board instead of the pink for mold reason being outside, or simply because foam board works better than the pink? Also can you please reference this to a house application with sheet rock
I use foam board insulation for sheds due to ease of installation and reduced costs compared to standard batt insulation or “pink” insulation. For a home application, this is not sufficient. For small accessory buildings, it works great.
Thanks for the feedback. Shed footings vary based on the terrain, shed size, location, and customer preference. In this case, the shed is only 5x8. The middle and back were raised using cement blocks. The area is sloped with great drainage. 👍🏻
The wooded column creates a concentrated load and could punch the floor cladding. I suggest installing a base platform below the wooden column to avoid column punching.
I bought myself a small 4 x 8 wooden shed recently. It’s a lean to Shed. I’m going to use the same brand, Rtech and it’ll have an r value of R.5.78. Right now during the daytime in the summertime it gets super hot inside my shed. I hope that adding all these on the walls and the ceiling will make a dramatic difference during the middle of the day. Also, what about winter time? I live in Northern California so it gets kind of chilly but it doesn’t ever get freezing cold. I assume in the winter time, it will be comfortable inside the shed?
Thanks for reaching out. It is tough to say how effective the insulation will be on its own. I doubt it will help much without a heater or a/c unit. Insulation is meant to help maintain a controlled temperature rather than regulate it. Also, sheds are not usually “air tight”. If I were to convert a shed to be a temperature controlled space, I would insulate, spray foam all gaps, and install an exterior door.
So i'm planning on doing this in my ceiling (no attic) in my office, and I was going to do about a 1 inch air gap, then 1 inch foam board with the shiny side facing up towards the roof, and follow that with R13 rolled insulation then drywall. Any issues with that? I'm just a DIY guy.
Thank you for responding and for you videos that serve many of us to everything like me who have no experience in this job and we are wanting to do a job like this at home
The side walls are 7 feet. This is so that the door is just under the eaves. A standard exterior steel door is 80” so 7ft walls with a 4/12 pitch roof. I hope that helps.
probably best to put posts in even if it’s pressure treated lumber , it laying on the ground will start to rot and shake, but still solid work i would have done way worse lol
Nah homie, if you’re by yourself then no way, your cutting them in half and then maybe, but you gotta be hella quick and probably wasting other half’s but cutting new sheets. If you’re saying just the walls then ya duh, but he’s by himself. If you’re working with another guy then what’s your point. lol, bros whole video is the fact he was by himself.
Drywall sealer is used before any other primers or paints. It locks in the material, and gives a great bond anything layed on top. It also prevents pealing from the dust left over that you will never wash away.
i have the leatherman skeletool, but I perfer to use my hands on sprays tbh. I mostly do golf course irrigation now and this tool is much more useful for that.
Thanks for the feedback. Per manufacturer guidelines, the metallic side “may” provide additional “R” value if facing a dead air space. I chose to put the metallic side facing the exterior wall to assist as a moisture barrier. I’m sure an argument could be made either way. With foil tape and spray foam in all gaps, this will be a solid insulator.
