I make knives, swords and other various projects! Come and learn with me! I am here to help, feel absolutely free to ask questions! If you are interested in doing a collaboration with my channel Just ask! I am here to have fun.
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Are there any belts this efficient for a crappy harbor freight 4x36? The ones from Lowe’s suck bad. At least that’s what I’m assuming the problem is. Takes forever to grind anything
Here I've been looking at knife making from only the blacksmithing angle. It's great to see finishing addressed step by more steps I'd even considered. Could you clarify from an older comment, when pressing the blade against the rotating disk, is the disk rotating such that the abrasive surface is moving toward the cutting edge or away from it? It's hard to tell direction of rotation from the video. I look forward to watching more. Thanks for your generosity, not only with your know how, but the work you put into sharing it.
After I glue the welt on I dye everything inside and out. You can't do that after you sew it all up. I dye the belt loop inside and out before gluing and stitching as well. Hard to dye inside the belt loop after it's stitched.
Another hint to new blade makers...ALWAYS drill your handle pin holes BEFORE you temper the blade! Keep everything in this video in sequence. A well tempered 1095 blade for sure will make you go thru a handful of bits! Also, I use a machinist center drill after I punch the hole positions with a center punch. That gives you a very nice beginning hole for your main bit that won't let it walk on you.
San-Mai has an unhardenable jacket. Wrought iron, stainless steel, mild steel, etc. You made a three layer "Damascus" blade. "San Mai (Japanese: 三枚, Hepburn: sanmai), in the context of metal blade construction/metalwork, refers to a knife, blade or sword that has the hard steel hagane forming the blade's edge, and the iron/stainless forming a jacket on both sides. It is also the term used to refer to the technique used to create these blades."
I wish I had a video of my recent fall down 8 wooden stairs. I had to have looked the real fool there. At 73 i realize how incredibly lucky I am to have only ripped a little valley down one forearm for 8 inches. The luck was in getting spun around and going down on my back so no fingers or limbs or the old face were forced in dangerous directions. I jumped up after lying still for my sensory inventory of parts and got out of that unfamiliar, poorly lit building straight away. Reminded me just how quickly the lightening of life can strike.
Nice machine!! Started a sharpening business up here in Canada, was thinking of DIY like that, especially for salon shears freehand sharpening. You should smooth out the disc edge so it sounds better when your knife guide hits the edge.
The first time I made a knife I got done and say down with my Work Sharp precision adjust knife sharpener. Which is like the wicked edge but much cheaper. I spent 3 weeks grinding that edge down to a cutting edge because I was using the stones of the sharpener to get from that square edge down to a cutting edge. I almost gave up on it. But using a file or a belt sander to get close to an edge, then using my setup to bring it to sharpness is so much faster and better on me both physically and mentally lol
Oh and Work Sharp actually did a video where they tried different methods of sharpening seeing if it's better to pull, push, and all that. They go in with a microscope and look at the edges and do cut tests. It's on RU-vid, totally worth the watch.
You can get a special metal trash can for oiled rag disposal. The car shops I've worked in had them and they are designed so if something does catch fire in them it won't spread.
For draw sanding I made a little block. Used 1” aluminum square tube, cut it to 4” long, and filled it with epoxy. I cut a slot in one side, and use that to insert a little 4” wide sandpaper.
Hand sanding is a great time to listen to a podcast or music or something. It's very meditative for me. I listen to Bible sermons and just embrace the moment of iron sharpening iron.
I would say that a 2x72 is a necessity. Like I get the advice if you're just trying it out you don't need to buy one, and when you first start making knives you don't need one. You can literally get by with just a hack saw and some files and sand paper. But the 2x72 is 100% something you should save up to buy as soon as you can if this is something you want to do more seriously. The availability of belts, the different attachments, the entire system, being able to control the motor. Those are all game changers that I wish I had MUCH soon in my adventure of learning how to make knives and make a business out of it.
You're pure class. No cussing and swearing and jumping up and down, and no giving up. If not a lesson to us all, definitely a lesson to me. I love that you went ahead and made the knife that was in your mind, regardless of the path you took to get there, in fact, that knife is more personal for the story behind it. As always, thank you for your generosity in sharing.
What doesn't show through in these videos is just how good you are....The end product shows it but, I follow your videos, and you make it all look so effortless, like watching a pro athlete...Only in this case, I say, "I can do that", and I actually try to! Hahaha. I can not for the life of me grind bevels to the "grind to" line to save my butt. At some point I'm going to have to invest in a 2" x 72", but in honesty, I don't know that it will help. "Its not the arrow, its the Indian". Thank you for these videos. I would be incredibly proud if I ended up with a knife like that, and you do it all with humility. You've inspired me to "keep on pushing".
