@@juancarlosmuniz8865 Are engine cranking?

@@190mex yes engine cranks. When I spray b12 carb cleaner it turns on with the belt screeching than it dies. I also replaced the voltage regulator and put a new battery in it…still nothing….

@juancarlosmuniz8865 Good then check U shape rubber house on bottom connect full to air flow meter rubber boot if this is issue not have vacuum and air flow disc canot push piston in fuel distributor and you not have fuel on injectors check this.

@@190mex are you talking about the hose that connects under the exhaust manifold (header)? The one that connects directly to the ICV from underneath?

Yes

Check for vacuum leaks, air flow potentiometer resistance

What is year of production?

W201 1.8 1991

@@Marsi190eThat means O2 sensor is not connect end ECU canot fine adjust the mixture becouse EHA is adjust by the ECU what is isues with engine?

@@190mex The car does not have a cat or a O2 sensor. The problem is with idle surging up and down. I checked the mixture and it stays around 50% at idle and also if i rev it up, still 50%. Idle surging starts only when it gets up to operating temp. If I unplug the IAC it idles good, just at higher rpm. Is there a posibility of an ECU or fuel relay failure/faulty? I've replaced so far: -IAC (tried 2 used ones and a new one, all run same) -all rubber hoses to and from IAC -rubber between fuel distributor unit and throttlebody -fuel filter -OVP -microswitch -OE potentiometer -spark plugs and wires -dizzy cap and rotor

Check again with cigarete smoke put silicon glove on kejetronic airflow meter hole an put smoke with hose on air intake right from air flow disc youbhave vacuum leak some where.

Yes

Required: Multimeter with duty cycle. 1. Remove air cleaner and unscrew the cover of the diagnostic socket on the fender (on the fuel/ignition box there). 2. Set the meter for duty cycle and put the red probe in the #3 hole and the black probe in the #2 hole in the diagnostic socket. 3. Switch ignition on but do not start engine. Should read 70%. 4. Start engine. Duty cycle will be 50% until the oxygen sensor warms up, at which point it will go way down to 30% or less if you are running rich and the electronics are working. Let the car idle and heat up to 80C. 5. When the computer is controlling the mixture, it will read something other than 50% and will change all the time. At this point, you can use a 3mm Allen wrench to adjust the mechanical fuel mixture at the fuel distributor. Insert Allen, then press down GENTLY to engage the key in the screw. Don't press very hard, you will shove the mass flow sensor flap down and add extra fuel. 6. Clockwise is richer, Counter clockwise is lean, only turn in SMALL amounts. 7. Turn the Allen slowly and release the pressure, then wait a bit to see where the reading goes. At idle it will take 10 sec or so for the change to show up, and if you get carried away, you will have trouble getting the correct reading. 8. Adjust in small increments, 1/16 turn or so at a time, until you get a reading close to 50% duty cycle. This should set the EHA current at close to 0, giving you proper fuel mixture control. 9. Now, the fun starts. If you cannot obtain anything but 50% duty cycle with no changes, the O2 sensor is bad or unhooked (connector is under the floor mat in front of the passenger side front seat). If it changes, but you cannot set it to 50%, something else is wrong. 10. You should get momentary enrichment (lower duty cycle %) when you open the throttle, going back to 50% quickly. If you get the opposite, you probably have a bad mass air flow potentiometer, so the computer doesn't get signaled you opened the throttle. 11. Your car should now be around 45-55%. Now rev the motor up to around 2500rpm and it should be 10 less then your idle number %. If not, you need to re-adjust the EHA. 12. The EHA is a small black box located on the side of the fuel distributor. There is a screw in the middle that needs removed and a 2mm Allen key is required. Counter Clockwise is leaner, clockwise is richer. 13. If your car is running say 25% at 2500rpm turn it counter clockwise (to lean it out), if it's like 70% turn it clockwise (to richen it up). It doesn't take much, turn it ONLY A 1/8 Required: Multimeter with duty cycle. 1. Remove air cleaner and unscrew the cover of the diagnostic socket on the fender (on the fuel/ignition box there). 2. Set the meter for duty cycle and put the red probe in the #3 hole and the black probe in the #2 hole in the diagnostic socket. 3. Switch ignition on but do not start engine. Should read 70%. 4. Start engine. Duty cycle will be 50% until the oxygen sensor warms up, at which point it will go way down to 30% or less if you are running rich and the electronics are working. Let the car idle and heat up to 80C. 5. When the computer is controlling the mixture, it will read something other than 50% and will change all the time. At this point, you can use a 3mm Allen wrench to adjust the mechanical fuel mixture at the fuel distributor. Insert Allen, then press down GENTLY to engage the key in the screw. Don't press very hard, you will shove the mass flow sensor flap down and add extra fuel. 6. Clockwise is richer, Counter clockwise is lean, only turn in SMALL amounts. 7. Turn the Allen slowly and release the pressure, then wait a bit to see where the reading goes. At idle it will take 10 sec or so for the change to show up, and if you get carried away, you will have trouble getting the correct reading. 8. Adjust in small increments, 1/16 turn or so at a time, until you get a reading close to 50% duty cycle. This should set the EHA current at close to 0, giving you proper fuel mixture control. 9. Now, the fun starts. If you cannot obtain anything but 50% duty cycle with no changes, the O2 sensor is bad or unhooked (connector is under the floor mat in front of the passenger side front seat). If it changes, but you cannot set it to 50%, something else is wrong. 10. You should get momentary enrichment (lower duty cycle %) when you open the throttle, going back to 50% quickly. If you get the opposite, you probably have a bad mass air flow potentiometer, so the computer doesn't get signaled you opened the throttle. 11. Your car should now be around 45-55%. Now rev the motor up to around 2500rpm and it should be 10 less then your idle number %. If not, you need to re-adjust the EHA. 12. The EHA is a small black box located on the side of the fuel distributor. There is a screw in the middle that needs removed and a 2mm Allen key is required. Counter Clockwise is leaner, clockwise is richer. 13. If your car is running say 25% at 2500rpm turn it counter clockwise (to lean it out), if it's like 70% turn it clockwise (to richen it up). It doesn't take much, turn it ONLY A 1/8

Even the auto switch to lpg was working, somehow it knows the temperature

Hello, I bought a car with an already installed installation for lpg, the control module is AC Stag 100, here is the connection diagram, I did not connect anything there, everything was already connected when installing the BRC Blos mixer, I disconnected the Actuator from the AC Stag 100, this is the diagram: www.ac.com.pl/en-services-zone-technical-materials?file_id=1725&ph_kontener_glowny_C_start=file

@@190mex i already put some interiour away to find out... There is a reley, that splits the fuel pump + and reacts on that cable to solenoids, but that reley works well... So the problem is somewhere else. Do you have any idea, what can cause this problem? Fuel pump reley is alright...

Fire order is 1342 cilinder 1 is below oil cap ignition cable is small to large on distributor cup number 1 is close to srew below if you have a bkack cap cover number is on cover 1342

I sold this car i have another 190e for daily car

@@190mex sweet. I have a '91 300e 4matic I'm about to do this to.

My model year is 1984 engine m102. 962 i have one coolant sensor pin1 is for EZL ( is ignition) and pin 2 is for ecu car computer to calculate what ideal mixture you need

Not

Chek for vaccum leaks, ignition cables when you total dark if you see spark jump in engine compartmemt change cables only original brand, Search for Blos mixer on google is rare.

Yes

From the top edge near the thermostat next to the valve cover

The Bosch sensor still works after 39 years 😯

Reading is wrong on this port you need to messure dutycicle value need be oscilate around 45-55 % on video messure curent.

my car has the same issue its stuck on 2.7 volts and my full voltage is 14.3 and and its behave like the car in this video i have done everything to fix it but nothing is working what could be the problem if you can help me

@@accnum1765 check this first zero position of plate ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LHZD_fJoeJM.html

@@accnum1765 when you have corect zero position of plate then watch this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tTfTmO34gsE.html

Because the blos system is installed in car runs on gas (LPG) and it is impossible install original original air filter

@@190mexit is. I have lpg with original filter

@@asineprestanou5221 you have Blos mixer or?

@@190mex some different Brand, but probably same installation

@@asineprestanou5221 post a photo under the hood

190mex instagram

Idle is too high check for vacuum leaks on rubber boot and pipes, air flow potentiometer when engine is cold idle go to 1000 rpm when engine is warm then drop of basic 750 rpm when ac is on idle go up.

@@190mex how about 900rpm when idling? And when the A.C is on its about 750-800 rpm.

@@MartinMechanicGamer it should be 650-750 rpm when the engine is idling and 800-850 when the air conditioner is on. Because then there is a greater load on the engine and it has to compensate with higher revolutions

@@190mex thanks a lot. I would check the vacuum leaks or rubber boot and pipes. I just adjust the timing distributor and the idle in the throttle body to get that 900rpm coz when i turn on the ac the engine shut off.

@The Gaming Mechanic If you have KE-Jetronic system of injection you cannot adjust timing manually.

Auto je kod limara rjesava pod na kutevima i onda ide na registraciju :)

@@190mex Hehehehehe, samo napred!

Start on petrol drive on lpg

When the engine is running, check the voltage on the battery if the voltage is less than 13.8V, replace the voltage regulator on the alternator. For stable idle check for vacuum leak on pipes and rubber conections. If you have vacuum leak on KEjetronic system you have a problem.

@@190mex i took a different alrernator from another 190 and now it starts charging at ~1800rpm. Didnt mention previously but it still has this problem with the abs system that it lights up the abs warning light after 10-15minutes of driving. It has the abs warning light on before the alternator starts charging and the light dissappears once the alternator starts charging

@@etzka0126 Check the alternator with car electrician

Check heater valve if have vacuum leak this system work on vacuum if you have any vacuum leak you have a problem with operation you have pipes a rubber connection behind a central console check all of this pipes and ruber conections.

Tu i tamo prodem evo pokosila me korona Sretna Nova!

@@190mex Hvala puno, takodje. I mene je ubila oktobra! Mnogo ste rizicni vi tamo! Bar kako slusamo ovde na vestima!

Tester is hook on diagnostic port and duty cycle is messure on pin 2 negative and 3 positive. Second tester is on EHA valve messure mA miliampers if corect is close to 0 mA

I don't know about the screw, the Mercedes put a plug on the top, otherwise there is a 3mm Allen key inside to adjust the mixture. For higher consumption, the lambda sensor may be defective, the mixture may be set incorrectly (too rich)