I have the exact same setup, except I'm running the original 67 400 with 670 heads. The cost of using race fuels will force me to buy aftermarket heads, eventually. I installed a Flowkooler high volum water pump that really helped with heating. I also added a port at the rear of the driver side head for cooling water.
Thank you for the response. I also went with the Flowkooler pump then back to a brand new stock one while troubleshooting. I'm pretty sure, after all the troubleshooting back and forth changes that it's just the hydrocarbons in my cooling system from a leaky head gasket that gets worse with expansion after engine heat up. End of this month the motor comes out for tear down and inspection, tank, possible bore... Then I can start ordering heads and kit for 500'sh hp rebuild.
It's been a while since I had researched this for my son's vehicle... If I remember right, You can use the jump terminal to "jump" the vehicle but was a good idea to separate the circuit when charging because you'd be hooking up a charging unit not only to the battery but through the vehicle circuits too and could cause damage.
I would set up a actual gauge, compare the two, you could have a biased temp sensor giving you false readings, cooling fan wired backwards, faulty thermostat, the system requires a 180deg thermostat.
Thank you for the suggestions. I've switched out temp gauges, used temp gun, checked fan direction from the beginning, and tried three different thermostats and tested them in water and temp meter. These are all things that did not change when I switched to EFI and started to run hotter with the exception of the thermostat since EFI setup wants 185 degree (I tried different ones anyways).
From your arf readings they're not horrible, but should be above 14 while cruising. Could also try a colder plug. Your radiator setup should be fine, cooling fan etc. I'm currently installing the same system, so this draws my attention lol
@@Random-bm7ho I do like the system overall. The hardest part was laying everything out to make sure where I could put the ECU. People have put it in the engine compartment and I thought about puting it in the fenderwell but really wanted it inside the car. I finally removed my glovebox and then could clearly see that there was room and access to put it on the inside of the firewall behind the glovebox. Also, the fuel pump wires were short with a plug on the end that only made it mid-way under the car... I ended up taking 6 feet of some propper gauge wire and sliding shrink tube over the whole length of the wire to make it look professional and kind of match the wire cable from Edelbrock. Next I want to build my custom center console which will include an android touch screen stereo with my Edelbrock tuning app on it :)
@@FreeTop20 I also mounted the ecm in the dash, I have a painless wire harness so I used the fuse panel and fuel pump relay and fan relay to power those. My pump will draw too many amps for the ecm to power. I hid all the wires under the intake so you can just see the plugs and a little wire.
Oh, and on a warm day it will get hotter... It was only about 60 degrees outside on the drive section of the video. I really think it's got a lot to do with tuning/timing. I also wonder if somehow I'm not getting enough air flow through the engine compartment now with the radiator filler panels? I added them so that the fan was forced to draw more air from in front of car rather than maybe circulating the hotter engine compartment air over the top and back through the front of the radiator. Next, if I just start the car cold and let it sit and idle only, it will come up to 185'sh and stay around that temperature for a VERY long time... It's when I start driving for a while that it seems to get to the point of no return back to the mid 180's temperatures.
On my 67 ac car they even did some material to close out and force more air through the condenser and radiator from the bottom area of core support I would think the close out panels would help. Have you had any luck since posting this video.
@@steveme3675 No luck yet. I do have the lower panel which is the last missing panel. Before I did the EFI I did not have this panel installed or the radiator filler panels on the top side yet it ran cooler. Also now my alternator gets hot eventually as engine temp goes up... I think it's the hotter coolant air being blown on the alternator. The other day I took it around town with some easy driving and the temp stayed all within reason climbing up to about 195 and would cool back down to about 185. As soon as I take it out and drive it at higher speeds and farther away, it will eventually get above the 195 and then I can't ever get it back down to the 185-190 range :(
