Nice job, i work at the machine shop and we build many engines i wish customers would disassemble and clean their engines, my company won't allow us to put on any accessories sometimes they are even lost i want all my parts to go back on the build Again you show the correct way 😀 😊
Thanks! That’s my goal is to be able to help folks that are interested in building hotrods to know how and why to build them for whatever their purpose 😎🚜💨
It’s on hold now, but when I get the money up to get back on the build, it’s gonna be awesome… I might currently be saving up for some better heads! 😎🚜💨
I was close to trading my 5.3 swapped 82 Gmc shortbed Squarebody to a Red 01 RCSB silverado last week. But the guy messaged the night before I was to leave amd said ih i forgot to tell you the wheel bearings are bad im gonna trailer it to you. 😂 nah fam im good ill keep mine. Still looking for a decent 99to02 rcsb silverado or Sierra to trade for.
Dang! Man I honestly love the 99-02 era trucks. 03-06 are fine, but the 99-02 are the best of the era to me. Second only to the 73-87 era. I was dumb and sold my 02 RCSB stepside regency sport truck a few years ago, and regretted it ever since.
I have the same scales, but went I went the optional ramps. It was a good call. To those that may not know, to scale a car properly the tire pressure has to be "as run" and even side to side. Ideally, the dampers should be removed. With coil overs we back the settings off to full soft. Remember to note the settings first! The dampers will "hang" like mentioned in this video and throw off the corner weights.
You are 100% right! We have found that typically it’s easier to use ramps to get on the scales even though you can drive directly onto the scales. It’s amazing how difficult it is to get a race car to climb up on them 🤦🏻♂️😂 Once you learn the quirks of scaling a car out, it becomes much easier to do
@@AllieCatCustoms I ended up needing a case spreader. The left side shim would not go in and the shim driver I had was way too small. The Vevor Case Spreader got the job done. I was working on a M200. All original shims were used except the pinion shim had to be replaced as it was impossible not to damage it upon outter race removal.
I bought one 3qt unit with manual valve plus a solenoid on 12Vdc hooked the the run side of ignition. I don’t drive every day or every week, but I know how much it cost in my time to supply a machine shop with damaged rotating parts if the engine doesn’t last about 4-9 more years. Why not last 20 years! Thank you kindly for the information you provided. Peachy great! ASE Master Tech 78. Retired!
Awesome! James is talking about running a solenoid setup on his accumulator when it comes apart for more upgrades. That will make the whole setup nicer!
I call bull shiat.. try this with 4an line... fraying is IMPOSSIBLE to prevent./navigate around. Have found ONLY soultion is to force the SS sleeve down ... put fitting on as shown her but JUST on the inner core.. Once your fitting installed.. Tape the SSteel splay of material right at bottom edge of the fitting... then cut off the SS strands VERY CARFULLY. so not to damage the inner core and so not to totalyl FUBAR's the nice fitting.. .. but you will and you will make it look like shit.. then from other end before installing that side..... put a 3/4 shrink rap on it slide it up to your fitting and cover your uggly shiat hack job at base of fitting. On 4an at least, this is a freaking waste of money unless you get it with fittings installed already. Hoping like hell my 6an SSteel line assembly is going to go better. Got like 8 hoses (16 ends) to make compered with just two end on my the 4an. One 4an end took 1.5hours till figured out the work around. Its a return line; so at least it wont suck in air (diesel engine application). did about 16 ends with 10an fittings on nylon strand braid without issue. (remote oil filter/cooler/thermostat) Or I just suck at SSteel braided.. could be that too lol
6an- steel braided.. nope.... complete fail..... the electrical tape is a NO GO. It is to flexible. Answer was SUPERGLUE. then a non stretch tape once dry and then cut with a very fine cut tool with as few mm width as you can muster. . BUT... below 6an.... even this fails... even superglueing the braids.. one layer of stiff tape and superglue that prior to cutting- FAIL city... .. Braids at end of hose still flair ever so tiny amount.. but enough to make it IMPOSSIBLE to install the nut.
Questions: How do you determine initial pinion bearing preload with spacer..do I measure what the original crush sleeve thickness was, then add shim's to the new spacer, torque to 130 ft/lb and then check for recommended rotational torque? What is the rotational torque value with spacer( not crush sleeve) for GM 10 bolt 8.625? I'm not clear on procedure Thanks much!
You can use the crush sleeve as a guide for initial setup on the eliminator. I’d error on the side of slightly thicker spacer though. You want to sneak up on the preload vs going to far. I’m actually gearing up right now to make a video on this subject, and hopefully have it posted in the next month or so!
She is doing great! Just been very busy lately. We’ve been trying to work on videos for her, but she’s been so busy with her purse making all it’s been hard
On the stock ECU, I wouldn’t really call it a “struggle“ but in order to get the most out of a competitive car, I definitely recommend going to an aftermarket ECU like a Holley or a Haltech. Initially, I had the stock 99 computer dyno tuned down in Baton Rouge and it did fine and worked for a while, but I will say, ever since I went to the Holley, it has been night and day in comparison! That Holley provides a ton of good data and is a lot more user-friendly than a system like HP Tuners. I actually tuned the car myself on the Holley. And I’m no expert when it comes to that stuff but was able to get it dialed just from watching some RU-vid videos and doing a bit of reading. With the stock ECU you definitely can get a car down the road and make things work, but if you really want to be competitive, an aftermarket ECU system is definitely the way to go. Once I made the switch to Holley, I was almost mad at myself for waiting as long as I did.
is there a deference in the preload of the pinion with the seal and without the seal. seems like if I set the right preload on the pinion to 24 without the seal, when i install the seal it has more resistance.
You will definitely feel a bit more resistance with the seal. As long as you are within spec with the seal removed you will be good… if you are using a crush sleeve, you will be setting final preload with the seal installed, so just factor in the slight added resistance the seal will give. Also lubing the seal will help reduce the resistance.
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb. It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear. I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original. Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
It could honestly be a lot of things. Could be in the brakes, u-joints, even the front end. Your really need to troubleshoot the whole truck to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
Hi guys. Great video. I just added an accumulator on my nova for my 441 sbc. I have mine feeding through my remote filter mount through an OUT port that goes back to my Iron Eagle block. One thing just hit me was some people use a solenoid with a pressure switch. Say it's 40psi. It will only open if it dips it will only open below that set point. Do you think that might prevent the bouncing you saw with it trying to fill it AND feed the engine? Just curious.
It’s possible. Something like a switch with a one way check valve in it so it would bleed pressure one way but not the other. Unfortunately because things came up, we really only had a limited amount of testing done before I finished the video… but we plan to continue testing it to see why the accumulator seemed to prolong the oiling issue. I’ve seen these accumulators work well, and other times not, depending on what the actual oiling problem is in the engine, so I was skeptical from the beginning. It seems that an accumulator really can only be a supplemental oil supply, not a replacement. That LS in the TransAm needs a better oil pan and sump to keep the pickup tube in the oil, THEN, the accumulator can do its job.
I actually have a theory on the oil pressure fluctuating during the pass. When I added the accumulator, I never actually added any oil on top of it as the 6 quart pan was already holding 7 quarts of oil, so I had assumed that the extra quart would have gone into the AN line and into the accumulator. What I think is probably happening is the accumulator IS doing it’s job, but the pan is still having oil climb up the back of the stock pan, which is then putting air into the system, causing the pressure to fluctuate. I have since added another 16 ounces of oil but have not yet taken it to the track to see if it would fix the issue. Regardless… The stock F body pan definitely needs to be upgraded to a more “drag race“ friendly pan.
@@fast73nova Watching the “Moroso” 3qt accumulator video, they show it on with key & no pressure switch. It will be an “Active” oil pressure backup as oil pressure drops, it reacts but only as much as needed. A pressure switch would be on-off-on-off and result in a bouncing gauge reading. They run 15 PSI for best practices as low oil pressure is avoided. Then fills back up as pressure returns from “G-Forces” allow oil back to sump. No air in the system, just solid oil pressure and a decent volume. Retired ASE Master. DK.
Yup! Each way has its pros and cons. Since I’ve had these scales, I’ve started using them with the 2 post lift. Just gotta let the car settle for a bit. But if I was at the track or something where I don’t need to put it on the lift, I’ll drive on them. I like that you can do either way on these scales.
I look fwd to your videos. I wish I could do side work out of my garage or even have enough spare time to put into my hot rods . I’m a truck driver so time is limited 😂
I drive a truck locally! I remember the days being over the road… hard days and not much time for hotrods! I hope you enjoy what I’m working on now, it’s gonna be fun! 😎🚜💨
Based off of those logs, it looks like the stock F body pan is just not going to cut it. When that 6.0 is pulled, it will be getting an upgraded Moroso drag racing pan. I was honestly expecting the accumulator to perform a little better but as you said, “band aid on a bullet hole.”
Absolutely! Upgrading the pan will definitely be the best option. As we kinda showed, the accumulator is better in a supporting role, but it can’t fix a major pressure issue
Absolutely! Each one will be so much fun to get back on the road! I’m hoping to get the unibody in the shop sometime this fall. Got a couple projects ahead of it!
Another great video! I hate that we cannot get to the track as often as we would like. I definitely have big plans for this car in the future and I have no doubt it will be competitive. We just have to find the time to get out there and make some hits and get everything lined out. We will get there in due time. Regardless, It’s always a blast turning wrenches with good company and I look forward to progressing in my knowledge of racing as well as knocking more time off that ET!
Absolutely! Any chance I get to wrench or race is a great thing! It’s time to turn that ole wuhan whistler up on that LS and see what the ole car can do! 😎🚜💨
The car is looking good. Good luck to yall. James I’m learning as I go also really enjoy watching the videos can’t wait for c10 to make an appearance 🤙
@@jefferymoreau5533 absolutely! That’s what it’s all about! Getting out there and just making it happen. Hopefully, Michael can get to the C10 in the near future. I think his biggest holdup right now is just getting his bank roll up a bit so he can get back after it. I think most of all people that hot rod can relate.
@@jefferymoreau5533 I spent 2 years putting my trans am together before it fired off for the first time. It takes time but once they move under their own power, it’s an awesome feeling! Just keep at it, and I have no doubt the end product will be worth the time and money! 💪🏽
Glad I could help! When things slow down, I’ll probably do more videos on scaling a car out and all that, and show more about the scales. They are good, with good features, especially for the price!
That Gran Torino would make an awesome “driver!” A healthy big block with all the creature comforts inside. That car would be a blast just to cruise around in and cut up with.
