Hi I'm TeH and as a hobbyist I like to make things! As the channel title points out I like to use micro-controllers in what I make.
I've been using microprocessors since about 1977, and still remember the fun we had when PC’s had 640K of ram and we could not see the need for more! how little did we know back then.
Still think that you should read the data sheet and workout how to use it, how to drive its outputs, how to read its inputs. The ART is in reading and understanding data sheets and not how to load a library.
I've killed a few cheap ones, but i have one or two on the bench just in case. Thinking of building a FTDI based one to use with my ESP boards. They do a nice 4 channel one so you can program and debug at the same time 🙂
@@GnuReligion the problem with the mc34063 is the datasheet shows the lower input voltage limit as 3V. The TPS63802 it seems is built to run from a single lithium battery. As the battery voltage drops it switches from buck mode to boost seamlessly. So with luck the user should not notice the light dropping, I won't as its a camping light and I don't do sleeping in a tent unless it's got full onsuiet bathroom, tea or coffee. :-)
An elegant solution. I was rooting for the Arduino, added features like the low battery alert would be nice, or maybe the infamous S.O.S. mode 😊. How about a charge controller with low battery indication? Regards, David
@@davidv1289 looks like I end to do some more design work, this is known as specification creap . You know something that the customer wants after they have excepted the quote. :-)
What an annoying video. Everything from the 8000th PCBway shill Ive seen to all the nagging thumbs up and subscribe crap. Have yourself a well earned thumbs down.
Interesting project. I own the exact same lamp. Even with the resistor loss it runs practically forever on those 8 D cells and puts out a surprising amount of light. Reducing its weight would be a welcome improvement. How about one of those programmable current regulator chips with the built in FET - or would that be cheating?
@@davidv1289 I have not run it enough to see how long it will last. Looks likely that I'll have to do that for the final video. I hope you like,e the solution I went for in the next video.
Ahhh… nothing like a bit of coding as an alternative mental challenge to hardware design. Perhaps that’s one of the reasons I also like MCU based projects, as the mix of hardware and firmware development is very therapeutic. 🤔🤓
I've always preferred firmware to software, software is just something you run on a PC. Or something with an operating system. I.E a pi. but i will allow an RTOS as firmware 🙂
So far I've been happy with it. but then I'm happy with anything that's still got lead in it. I do try and go for higher flux content if i can does help if your boards have been sitting around a bit.
I was going to say that this project is coming along nicely, but I see Dave Odessa has beaten me to it! Well, it is and I'm looking forward to seeing it in operation. And the antenna poking up the middle is still brilliant. Regards, David
Got to get the most out of it as the cost is mounting up. I still need a 5V 5A+ PSU to power the thing if i don't over do it. 10A if i turn all the LED's on ;-(
I had wondered why you didn't just insert one in place of the bad one. Then I realized it would be two solder joints close together - just before you explained it! I haven't played with these programmable LEDs so I'm looking forward to the code bit. Regards, David
Thanks David, I just thought that it would be better to keep joints as far apart as possible. As they don't flex the same at a joint. The code is how to bit bang the serial data stream on the ESP8266 hope you enjoy the next video.
Still waiting for the washing up bottle so I can make a rocket. My mun wrote to Blue Peter to say "now they have done a show us how to make a wooden sleigh, could they now do a show on how to remove saw marks from kitchen tables" 🙂
More spiral goodness. I wish FreeCAD would just tell you which constraint it is upset with - life would be so much easier. It definitely needs an antenna in the center.😊 Regards, David
freeCad is a bit like the Arduino IDE. it's happy to say you have a problem but then does it's best to hide the issue. I stopped using the Arduino IDE for that reason, but there are not many options for FreeCad. I agree that it needs an antenna even if just for show 🙂looking for a ESP8266 with external antenna now on AliExpress. so i expect it will get one in the end.
My HSTNS-PD29 shut down after few minutes, unplug the ac cable and on again, but after a few minutes it will shut down again, and 3 of 4 units here have the same symptoms. What should I do?
@@hamdiaskar9822 did you do the change the overvoltage trip mod? As if you just raised the output voltage any small spikes will trip it out. I did a video on how to increase the ov trip point.
@@hamdiaskar9822 not sure on that then, are you pulling a lot of current ? We are taking them out of the range they were designed for so there could be differences between units. If the load is producing voltage spikes that could cause an issue. Then I did the first mod before the over voltage protection it did the same thing. Would just shut down randomly. You could try changing the value of the ov mod resistor to increase the trip point, maybe with component tolerances you could still be near the trip point. As no one has a circuit diagram of these psu's that i can find it's all just a bit hit and miss.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist no, for stability testing I use a 60 watts halogen bulb, 5 amperes current. I’ll try to find the reason of my problem, maybe try short the optocouplers (I saw 5 of them in the logic board) Optocouplers modification always successful to alter ovp and other protection on ATX PSU, maybe I’ll try on this HP server PSU and hope a good result too.
@@hamdiaskar9822 if you find a fix please let us know incase it helps others. It's hard without circuit diagrams to get it right for everyone. But with a global effort we might find the answer. Fingers crossed its not 42 :-)
slowly working on it. having fun re-inventing the wheel software wise. i know that a software down load like WLed will be the easy route, but first you have to try yourself or you learn nothing. Thanks for the comments it means a lot that folk take the time to respond to my videos.
Have you tried a Mag mount on a modern car! My Volvo has a roof a little bit thicker than tinfoil. 😞 I had to get a roof rack and then bridge the two with aluminium angle to mount a 2m/70cm colinear. Thanks for the comment, I hope your will like the rest of the project.
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist I have a couple of old CB radios somewhere in the loft. One is a modified Ham International ( I can't remember the model). It has high and low bands. Had great fun with this radio back in the day. Oh I just remembered, it's a Concorde-II.
@@daveodessa I think I had a few Midland am radios, it was fun when it was illegal. when they made it legal in the UK it just became id hate to say a bit boring. But by then I'd become a Ham or cured cb'er :-)
The modification works by changing the ratio of the voltage setting pot. This means the output voltage has to increase to give the correct feedback value. the other video's show what else needs to be done if you need to get to 13.8V or so without the overvoltage trip to kick in. Again be careful these PSU's can kill if you touch the tracks with power on or have not given it long enough time for the caps to fully discharge.
@@ranetti21 this could be caused by tolerances in the components etc. but once you get near to around 13.8V you might need to do the overvoltage mod as well. there is a video for that as well.
@@DigicoolThings I've got a valve radio and record player which needs restoring, so this and two back to back transformers will give me variable and isolated mains supply.
Used current mirrors in the past but with dual transistors, where they are matched and on the same die so don't suffer from temperature differences as you do with using two separate ones. But a fun little circuit to add to the kit.
Nice little demo ! interesting what you said about resistors, I had never thought of it like that. Very interesting all around......Squeak!............cheers.
Thanks Andy. glad you found it interesting. there is an a error in the video I'm not sure if I should wait to see if anybody does the calculations and spots it or own up and put it in the description. :-)
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist I don't do the sum's when watching so if it's a decimal point wrong or something of that nature I wont catch it, but it was a great refresher all the same so Squeaktastic !!
I'd love to say it was was my own code, but while I was working on my own Rs232 driver for the HP34401A I came across this which was created by Niravk patel It still throws the odd error on the meter but not as many as I was. I could not get the refresh as fast as he does. It was on the EEVblog forum. github.com/Niravk1997/HP-Agilent-Keysight-34401A-Control-and-Data-Logging-Software Forgot to say the perf board was cut on my K40 laser, the board mounts on my Ender 3, and the components out of my odds and sods bins.
I've used the Meanwell power supplies for commercial products and they have never caused an issue with passing the standards for safety and emissions required for CE marking. And you get quite a bang for your buck, no worries about if it will try and kill you after being fitted like a lot from china.:-0
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist Yep. A long time ago, after a bad experience, I learned that any mains powered device that says "made in China", must be opened first to check the quality of the earthing is sufficient for safe power-on. I've had a number of devices that have required a bit of remedial work first... for peace of mind at the very least. 🤓
@@DigicoolThings A lot of the time the transformers are not even close to being legal in the UK. the only insulation between the primary and the secondary is twice the enamel thickness. Having spent over £1M getting products through CE marking you get use to rejecting components just by looking at the datasheets. did see two manufactures with different looking PSU's but having the exactly the same RF emission spectrum. I've never seen two runs on the same kit at the same time look the same. 🙂
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist I know the feeling, but keep doing what you are doing. You can use tools to get more subs and views, but in the end if you like what you do, people will find you. And honestly, I rather have 1K subs that are mostly all engaged, than 10K that bare watch your videos. The first ones are much more worth!
Damn I thought this would be an interesting Post bag, but SMS capacitors do nothing for me, as for the solder I got mine ages ago infact I have 4 reels and it wasn't expensive then, you need to think further ahead and save money ;-) 🙂
4 reels flintstone, that's a good new nickname. even Dave not from Odessa thought you would like the cap's. look like we both got it wrong. maybe Mr squeak will be along to have a say. 🙂
@@sdgelectronics yep, it's got the lowest free post break point of all the usual distributor's. Even the same parts are cheaper than they are from Farnell which is in the same group. They are my normal go to for parts, for the others I need to build a bigger whish list. the problem comes when one don't stock all i need. 😞