Welcome to whats next garage! On my channel I do many how to videos, automotive, household, food plotting and gardening. Sometimes with great detail and sometimes I just show the work. I'm just an ordinary guy with a large honey do list! If you are so inclined, come along and watch as I work to upgrade the shed with lighting, insulation, stain glass production office and finally finish the bathroom. All the while fixing and repair things along the way. Thank you for stopping by, my name is Dave.
Aa a mobile mechanic, duralast brake pads are the way to go. Generally the best price, especially if you have a commercial account and their lifetime warranty basically guarantees you repeat customers for brake jobs.
I think I'm in the same boat on an impreza. Rebuilt the engine and noticed a lot of oil leaking a few weeks later. Rust hole right through the pan. No idea how I missed that, would have been a lot easier with the darn engine sitting on the engine lift.
@@strongislandautoenthusiast841 I have used felpro for a long time and just bought them. Quite frankly I often forget to go the OEM because of the higher costs.
@@whatsnextgarage Back in the day Fel-Pro was our go to gasket brand, I'm not too sure what reputation Fel-Pro has these days. I was really wondering if those blue colored Fel-Pro gaskets were supposed to be better than Subaru OEM. I'm literally getting ready to purchase a Subaru branded valve cover gasket kit and I try to research my part selections before purchase. I appreciate the response, and I liked your video.
Just did this on a 2011 Buick Regal 2.0T in car. Replaced all of the cam timing parts and balance shaft chain parts including phasers, balance shaft updated sprockets, vvt solenoids, water pump, and oil pump/timing cover. Lotta work. Took about a day in my garage. The hardest part is not spilling fluids everywhere. The down pipe has to come off to have access to the water pump and crossover coolant pipe. The turbo oil feed line and turbo coolant line come off too. Cheers
@@whatsnextgarage I just completed my job on a 2007 Chevy Malibu non VVT 2.2L. Your video and several others were very helpful. Thank you. I did mine in car, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Total parts was about $800 total. I did the water pump, balance chain and sprockets and timing set, thermostat, LOF and oil pan gasket. The shop gave me an estimate of $1500.00 but I know it would have ballooned to at least double that. My upper timing chain guide was toasted and contaminated the engine oil. Pulled the pan and did a thorough job of it. Once your car is tore down in their hands how do you say no to the whole shebang... Any idea how many rotations you have to make after the timing chain is replaced before the original set up marks are realigned? I turned it like 20 times, checking for interference, and they never did line up again. Runs like new now. Thanks again.
Picked up a Wheel horse C-100 yesterday with a mower and tiller and so am grateful for your video which outlines the removal of the tines etc. "Hitting your hand with a Hammer" is an occupational hazard which I'm prone to as well, so I feel you brother. Just an observation or two; If you're going to want to hold a job down while you knock off the bits you might use a chain rather than a ratchet strap as the strap has a lot more give in it than the chain, especially the way you had yours laid across the table. If you had a vice mounted on the bench it would really make it work for you. Your choice of chisel is like your choice of Torch tip - All wrong. Now I don't want to be a negative Nelly as I like your information and your presentation style is incredible but a blunt end drift rather than a sharpened end is required when knocking off the tines. Also that was a cutting torch tip you were employing to heat up the tines which may be what you intended to use however those of less understanding might end up cutting into the metal with that tip rather than the heating or brazing tips which would normally be used. It's nice to have all the tools but not everyone does, just reviewing your video I see that it is a blunt end drift that you are using so I'm wrong about that however the reason you're hitting your hand is because it's far too short for the job. I love and I do mean L-O-V-E the fact that I just noticed that you're wearing a GE Healthcare shirt - Steinmetz and Edison would be proud. You are the epitome of Edison's favourite saying which was "Genius is 5% inspiration and 95% perspiration" Keep up the good work. I'll be watching!
@@peckerwood6078 yea there are times I grab what’s available and let’er rip. Those rototillers are tough as nails! I rototilled up a root infested field and that thing just kept on chugging along. Congrats on that C-100!!
Great video...need help with a question here. When you we installing the pistons, on each one you said: "Make sure we are pointed to the flywheel". May I ask - what - was pointed towards the flywheel? What on the piston were you looking at, to have IT pointed towards the flywheel?
@@whatsnextgarage Wow....Thanks for a fast reply! And thank you for that answer. I will check the pistons. And until you said about facing the flywheel I was thinking that the orientation had more to do with the asymmetrical connecting rod ends that this engine has, where one end is a tad longer than the other, and it was meant to clamp to the crankshaft in one specific direction (only). Now not asking you for the answer here, but what difference does it make to the piston, which side of it faces the flywheel? It can only go in ONE of TWO ways, and one way the connecting rods will not hit the crankshaft as they should, no? Gee such a simple thing and yet it's not blatantly simple it seems.
I can honestly say that I have thought that same thing. I finally came to the conclusion that the mark on the piston simply makes sure that when you reassemble a used motor using the original pistons they go back in the way they were worn. Now I’m curious and I will be diving into it.
@@whatsnextgarage This is what I found: "Asymmetrical connecting rods, also known as offset connecting rods, have a big end that's slightly offset from the rod beam's centerline. This design is intended to accommodate engine designs where the cylinder bore's centerline is also offset from the rod-bearing radial centerline." And so from that....if THAT is the case.....then installing the connecting rods in the correct orientation is fairly critical. Now on another RU-vid video a guy showed the top of the piston and it has the word "fly" on in, with an arrow. So OK, I can go along with that. BUT it would seem to me, that when one installs the wrist pin to the connecting rods, that THEY TOO should go in one way. Because if not, that non-symmetry of their ends in going to wind up hitting the crank one way now, and another way on the next one, if the attachment of the two is not controlled. To be clear.....I don't have an issue with the pistons going in either way, because I don't see it mattering much. But I DO have a problem with the connecting rods not mating with the crankshaft as they were designed to do the mate.
Best thing about Duralast is their lifetime warranty. You wear out the parts and you return it and they'll give you a new one free of charge. I have 4 Toyotas and 3 of them use the same brake pads. I've been swapping them interchangeably over the years and I only paid once. The workers dgaf and just swap me new pads.
@immafoodlover6412 I’m doing a 2011 outback lower subframe, valve cover gaskets and plugs. So while have the engine lifted up to remove the subframe I’ll be able to get at the plugs and valve cover gaskets easier🥳🥳. I love working on Subarus!!
my dad was like this and to this day i don’t get along with him .. with my kids i want them to learn and fail and learn more than i was allowed to .. a 7$ tool vs my kids knowing how to provide and fix their own stuff i’ll eat the 7$ infact i’ll buy them a cheap set soon for them to use at will .. don’t be like this over 7$ tool vs your kids
@@jonwivccc7926 hey wait that’s not fair! This is silliness on RU-vid! My oldest kid just bought her first house and closes Tuesday at 25 yrs. They have a full litany of mechanical through electrical tools. They have used everything in the shop from my sockets to the lathe and mill. They put a snowmobile engine in a Subaru and put it on their channel as snobaru. Look it up it was an awesome project when they were 16. My youngest at 15 bought a Mazda rx8, I helped remove the engine from the car but they completely ripped down the motor and rebuilt it themselves while adding a street port to it. while yes at times I let them know to replace broken tools, clean up after themselves and always work safe in the shed, I think they still like me🤣🤣👍. Have a great rest of your weekend!! Check out the rx8 on my channel, there’s a few videos of us working together on it.
@@whatsnextgarage good to hear just don’t obsess over tools and deprive a learning lesson.. the tools destroyed shows they have interest in positive things
@@flyinbrian5437 don’t go as stupidly nuts with the rtv that I did. I used the wrong color and to much. I redid it about three weeks later using black rtv and only put it in the corners.
Super video. I just put a new to me used P2 that came with no paperwork, just pocket holder and wiring harness in my 08 Silverado. Going to pick up a TT tomorrow. thanks for posting.
On my system air is injected through a Venturi. The oxidation tank has a relief valve at the top to release excess air. The media tank is filled with calcite which neutralizes the acidity. It also traps the iron particles between backwashes. The calcite is slowly consumed and needs a slight amount added annually.
@@AlanSanderson-u4t it’s just about time for me to redo this job again. I think I have something going wrong because of the large amount of rust build up.
Think of the pulley system like the gears on a bicycle. When you shift the front gear into the small ring and the rear wheel into a big gear you have tons of torque to climb a hill. When you do the opposite it’s hard to pedal but can go fast.
@@ScalpNinjaTrader it didn’t come with the cord. If you check the max amps usage of your microwave then go to Amazon and search “appliance cord whip” you will find what you need! Have a great week!
They have the best warranty policy on brake pads. You pay for brakes once and never have to pay for new ones again because of it. No where else I know of does that.
@@ZeroIntel1 I drive fast and az pads don't stop as well as stock pads. They also put off more dust. I have a set on the front of my 2016 F150 now. When they wear out. I'm going back to the dealer.
I used the Hub Shocker. It separated the hub from the bearing housing. Will be returning it. I put the hub back on and weld the two pieces together. Will enlarge one of my stud holes to 3/4 inch and use a 5/8 hardened bolt to remove it. The hub shocker places downward force when the force needs to move directly away from the hub.
@@AlexsProjects thanks Alex!! I put the shaft in the Bridgeport, found the center of the shaft, touched the endmill down on the shaft, lightly touched until I had the full circle of the cutter, then I zeroed my z axis and went down half the key size. I do it that way so I don’t have to calculate the chordal height. That brush cutter is a beast, I was making trails in the woods going over 2” diameter trees with no problem!! Thanks again and have a great rest of the weekend!!
Best video I’ve seen for this repair. I’m doing all the gears and both chains. Wish you did the water pump chain too. Not sure of timing or anything for that.
So my mower was flooding while driving. It will cut off and I end up disconnecting the fuel. Letting it all burn out. Hooking it all up for it to do it sgain. I was told i could tap this with hammer because sometimes they get stuck. This worked thefirst time but hasnt worked since. Bought a whole new carburetor kit and fuel pump so hopefully it fixes it!
The fuel shut off doesn’t control the fuel once the power comes on. The needle, seat and float are what regulates fuel during operation. You should be good to go with those new parts. The fuel pump probably is fine because you are getting plenty of fuel to the carb. It’s probably just the needle and seat. Have a great weekend and good luck with your repair!!
