Dont worry about the cover some foam weatherstripping stuck to it holds it perfectly in place done. After screwed back to frame. Done it like that for years now. easier access to oil it. The front oiled gasket harder to get to and clean lube. Mine had a worn out phemolic gasket so i removed all of the metal ring phenolic then wick. Which I sprayed with brake clean rubbeed in rag then squished it in a vise to remove all the old oil yuckie wrap it in a rag squeeze it comes out. re oil it. front was very yucky.
Very nice collection! I have the same fan on the front left..My Dad bought it brand new in 1958 for $69.95. Dad put it in my bedroom window till 1965 when we had A/C put in after which it sat in the basement till Dad passed then I kept it back from the sale..It does not have the thermostat or reverse..It has a big round dial on the right side..It runs and looks brand new and moves more air on low than most others do on high..It is also very quiet..Regards.
29646 breaks down as... 29 series 6 -60 hertz 4 -blades 6 -blade radius There will be a stamped number on the lower right of the tag. Add 20 to that to get when it was made. Based on this, the tag should have a 7 on it as 20+7=1927
I need help with a newer tornado vfan jr vintage style fan. I took it apart because the blade was rubbing. As I put it back together, I saw that the cool side of the cord wire wasn't attached to anything. I don't know where it goes. The hot side is attached to a tiny black wire and there are also tiny red and blue wires that are attached. Can I send you photos
That particular fan is very fragile, and the power knob sits proud of the cabinet. Also, is the wind wants to blow your fan out of the window and onto the floor, its gonna do that. then you have a broken fan.
I do 3D print things, which does include these handles. If you can provide me with the precise measurements of the broken handle, I can design something and ship it to you, but you'll have to cover the shipping.
you don't. They are journal bearings. Your best bet is to find a parts fan and swap out the motor, or just find a better vintage fan with less hours on it. It would cost way more than the fan is worth to have bearings made for it. good luck.
My buddy Rob is reproducing these handles and selling them for a very reasonable price. You should reach out and get a few while hes still making them!
I did some work on my fan today as well. the blade mounting hole has been eaten away from the compressor spring not compressing, and the shaft wore away the blade shaft mount area. I stuffed tin foil on the shaft and wedged the blade onto the shaft and that seems to have filled up the space and it does not make nearly as much noise as it did before I worked on it. It's a 22 inch box fan from the mid 70s, so I like to keep it around, it was from my Grandmas place. It sounds much nicer now and I think it spins faster with all the banging around on the shaft is gone.
They make plastic flexible automotive plugs in various diameters that might work as a removable rear cover for easy future servicing. Just thinking aloud. I have the circlip pliers for that front clip. I’ve used them a ton over the years. Thanks for the video!
If its an older box fan like these are and you are careful you can drill small oil port holes in the motor housing on most box fan motors Ive seen / worked on.
Can I add an oil tube to just about any of these small electric motors such as found in other electric box fan motors from the 1950s & 60s? If not, why not? If it is simply adding a means to readily get the proper amount of the proper lubricant to the right location then why should I not do this to any of my box fans from this era? I wish you could take this apart to show exactly where the 2 tubes lead (although I can image the location since this is not rocket science & I have taken one of these motors apart). Why couldn't I just use the higher quality, easily available bendable hydraulic brake line tubing to create my own two oil tubes placed in the perfect location to allow any man to drop in the correct amount every 500-1000 hours (or less depending on how dusty the atmosphere is or how much outside air it is moving)? I suppose if I was a fanatic I could just add a motor hour meter to tell me when to add lube based on how many hours it has operated within a given environment. Lastly, was there a factory sticker or maintenance guideline anywhere on the machine regarding type of oil to use as a lubricant or how often to lubricate (like on my Air Berns 1956, 3.5 amp box fan that states clearly to use SAE 20 weight oil to lube the motor every 6 months)? --Obviously if the fan is not used very much then there would be a great reduction in the need to lubricate it. In today's world of fantastic lubrication products, is there any other type of grease or oil that is clearly superior to the inexpensive and perfectly effective 20 weight non detergent oil?
wow. this is intense. Thanks for commenting. first, I'm an ammeter hobbyist. this is a hobby for me. I'm not an electrician, engineer, mechanic, or restorer. from what I've gathered from the vintage fan community here on RU-vid you want to use a 20weight oil. Zoom Spout is great. And there IS a version of 3-in-1 that is suitable for fans. Usually a red and blue bottle and there will be a picture of a fan blade showing that it is made for oiling fans. grease does not apply to the types of shaded poll motors generally used in these type of fans in the mid-century era (late 50s, 60s, 70s, mid 80s). As for putting in oil tubes - sure. If you're going to drill you must be very careful to make sure no metal shavings make it into the motor and the bearings. One RU-vidr (JordanU) suggested not to drill GE bearing cover plates. Rather to use a sharp nail - pierce an opening for oiling. Great idea. no shavings. I still haven't tried but it's a good idea. Check out Jordan U on RU-vid. work safely.
@@thebombyall76 Thanks for your detailed reply. We are both amateurs it seems but learning fast. I have seen enough engineers who do not have enough hands on experiences so you may be better than a typical engineer these days. I am not a fan collector either but I picked up two vintage fans a few days ago. Just after I made my comment I took apart a 1961 Fasco Fan motor (a family heirloom that I cleaned up and sanded and painted and replaced the electrical cord). As I took apart the electric motor sure enough the two holes located at the top of the motor as it is oriented in the fan box had tubes sending oil to the right locations. In my second fan, a heavier and more robust 1956 Berns "Air Berns" model box fan with a stronger motor (3.5 AMP) and stronger fan blades and a stronger frame holding the motor in place, there were also two oil tubes going from the oil holes on the motor to the right location. Someone had taken care of this beast because the wadding where the oil goes was nice and moist with oil. So all I did was clean it up with Q-tips and a rag, and buy a 3 oz. bottle of the 3-IN-1 Motor Oil rated SAE 20 so I should be set to go for future oiling needs. I'm going to guess as a cost saving move(?) they started to remove these oiling tubes entirely before 99% of companies in the U.S. just decided to kill fan production partly because no one wanted to maintain anything any longer and simply preferred to use and buy new & preferred the quietness of the newer lighter weight models. I also have a 3rd fan, a Westinghouse 1969(?) model, that I will soon take apart to see how the inside of the motor is. I notice that it has no outside oiling tubes and also no oil holes on the motor, just a solid cover. So when I take this motor apart I will see what is going on inside and if necessary drill a couple oiling holes & put little tubes in place or see if they are just some kind of replaceable bearings. Perhaps they designed a different kind of lubrication system with these models with a sealed unit and a man is just supposed to replace it when it runs out of lube?? Of course it is not an electric fan, but On my Heavy Duty 2003 Gravely Zero Turn Commercial model lawn cutter, for example, there are few grease points because they are mostly sealed and apparently work well and if they start to seize up you just buy a whole new bearing! I've never yet had to replace any bearing yet with only 650 hours of service here in southeast Michigan, but I am only mowing about 1.5 full acres on a 2 acre spread. This is different from my 1969 Cub Cadet which has grease-able bearings on the original mowing deck for all three blades & if I keep them greased once a year it lasts and lasts. Each setup can work fine and maybe this Westinghouse can last for 5000 hours before the motor needs servicing to replace the bearings and lubricant... I'll find out!! Meanwhile I am so impressed with the features of this 1956 Berns fan with a extra heavy and strong motor and a separate plug in cord for the motor so servicing it is so easy as you just unplug it and remove it from the switch! Great!
Adding to my earlier reply: I did inspect the Westinghouse fan I earlier referenced, and yes there are no oil tubes and the fan lubrication of the shaft is all self contained. It runs so smoothly I decided not to drill any holes in it. Are these supposed to just squeak and chatter and that is when a man is supposed to give attention to the lubrication and change out these sealed components? At that point I suppose it would make sense to tap or poke or possibly drill a tiny hole at the top (as long as I was able to keep metal shavings from falling inside of the lubricant!.) --Or--and here are my final question?: Could you somehow pop off the back of the lubrication bearing and repack it?? Has anyone done this before? If you take off the back is there some kind of O-ring in there? If grease is never applied to any of these types of motors used in these fans, would there be a bunch of packing immersed in 20 weight SAE oil, like called for (printed on the motor exterior housing near the oil holes) on the 1950s Berns Air King model motors I have seen? I have never serviced a fan like this so I'll just hang up and wait for a reply on how to add lubricant to a fan motor where the components are sealed & then just stop talking about it! --ha! ha!
Fantastic!!! I loved when it started up. I had to service my fan the other day, took the motor apart and sucked up all the dust that cakes onto the winding inside. Oil the bearing felt, clean the shaft etc. etc. I broke the new screw that I had been using to hold the blade onto the shaft, that was a little dicy of a situation, pretty much had to drill a keyhole slot so I could pull the blade off the shaft and then I used pliers to remove the shank of the screw, ended up using a thickk cotter pin. Seems good, however it's from the 70s and I use it everyday, I think the shaft is a little worn because there is a bit of a wobble in the blades. Not much I can do about any of that, however I would like to get another decent shape old box fan like a Galaxy. The one I have now just has "super" sticker on the center of the grill, motor made by RMR corporation.
Man that thing is sweeeeeet! You definitely got a nice piece there! One note though: spindown isn't everything. Sometimes you will find the motors with the best bearings done have a massive spindown time.... Personally I find you usually wont have a problem with realigning bearings and revarnishing windings will extend a motors life quite a bit. Probably not necessary on something this unused though...
Wow that thing is MINT! Looks amazing! I bet those marks by the motor bolts were there from when it was assembled at the factory... That thing is too clean to ever have been messed with.
two good vintage finds im in the same boat you are in i'm trying to do the same thing and stop buying so many fans but it so hard sometimes i enjoyed the video
I found one in my nieghborhood about 10 years ago. Worked great until the choke coil burned up. It's either a Model 38C1 or C2. I'd have to look. Anyway, I just got a cheap 120v switch/speed controller, broke the bulky case and fit in in where the old 3 speed switch was. I just switch it on and turn all the way up to get the motor spinning and can then dial it down. I don't recommend this, as I haven't checked out the start-up current draw, etc. I've been using it in the shop for a few years with no propblem It moves a lot of air even at lower speed. If I weren't the only one using it, I'd either try to get a new choke ($50 if avail) or hard wire the motor and get a safer external control box. I've got too many other projects on hand. I live in a historic district (the cheap end) and the stuff people toss out (in the spendy area) is amazing. For anyone who runs into one of these, put "The Vintage Vornado Doctor" into the googles. - rcrescent dot com - web 1.0 webstie :)
That's a pretty cool find! Amazing condition too! You should come down to the NJ meet this summer! Maybe we could meet up there! Also a good place to buy / sell fans!
@@thebombyall76 I'm pretty sure it's in June not July.... I want to say June 1st but I could be wrong. Idk if there's a specific FB group for the NJ section but I seem to remember there being stuff posted about it on the I hear fans page.... I get all my info from my buddy Rob, happy to pass along anything I know to you!
I have an older version of this fan with 5 metal blades and an honest-to-god WOODEN handle. I scored it off of ebay around 5-1/2 years ago now and it's probably the crown jewel of my collection. These deluxe Laskos are all cool, given how rare they are compared to their Lakewood counterparts.
Seems like the blade hit something and knocked it out of clock. You may be able to walk it the other way and fix it. Use a soft wood to avoid damaging the blade.
The shaft doesn't go through a "bearing", it's a bushing. Also, when you were reassembling the motor, on the armature shaft end where the circlip goes, wasn't there supposed to be a large, felt kind of wadding that goes around that whole end of the shaft? In another video, you did pull that kind of wadding out and thought it was dry. Somebody else said that it contained grease, but agree with you that it had dried up. I really wish I knew what kind of grease had been used. I'm tempted to clean that felt wadding from my fan's motor using paint thinner, then after it dries maybe put some axle or disc brake grease in it. I will first use oil on the shaft as you show though.🧐
ok. first of all, its rude to tell people how to speak. this style of design is often referred to as a uni-bearing motor. not a uni-bushing motor. That's how I learned it. next, the later versions of these GE box fans (which this is) seem to have not come with the big C shaped felt. Seems that GE was getting cheap at the end of the run. You would be foolish to use grease. These would only have had 20 weight oil in them, in my opinion.
Sorry, I was simply stating a fact. Didn't mean to sound rude, sometimes typed replies can sound that way and I should have given more effort to what I wrote. What I see in the motor is a bushing. A bearing is defined by WordWeb as "A rotating support placed between moving parts to allow them to move easily" and clearly, a bushing doesn't rotate. OTOH, they define a bushing as "A cylindrical metal lining used to reduce friction". IME, bearings have either balls or rollers. On the other topic, I guess I'll clean that wadding with paint thinner and let it dry out and then soak it in 20 weight non-detergent of some kind -probably a 3-in-1. Again, sorry to have sounded offensive. Was just trying to clarify things. Thanks very much for your videos. I really appreciated the way you showed the order of the washers and other things.
its just held in by pressure. you have to gently pry it off and then press it back in. like an old fashioned hub cap. The back grill is permanent. don't try to get that off.
Blade hub is designed similar to the Lasko/Galaxy boxers between 1986 to 88 with only one vent hole and this show should of been the type of motor lasko should of use in the 1980s (metal housing instead of plastic)
you have to just pry it out. the real hard part is getting it back in, which was really difficult. You have to squeeze it in keeping pressure on the areas that are already in and it will pop back into place. It's like a hub cap on a car. held in by pressure. good luck.
I have the same model GE fan, and its blade too is off center. What I did, is re. Over the blade (there's a rubber grommet / bushing between the shaft and blade) and rotate the blade on the grommet til you find the sweet spot. Made a huge difference with mine. Make a witness mark w/ a sharpie or something and just use the old guess and check method. Hope this helps, I know this is years later. Also I believe that fan is from 1966 from my research
