For anyone looking for a cheaper high quality air solenoid, I ended up picking up a Vixen air ride suspension solenoid which is rated for 210 PSI for $35 on eBay. This valve is 3/8 inch NPT. I reduced the output side to 1/4" NPT and placed a small 1/4 turn ball valve after the solenoid. Operating it wide open at 3/8" didn't provide enough back pressure and the solenoid would not shut off after opening and would empty the tank down to 80 PSI before closing. With the reduced opening on the output side it will run a 1 second purge every time the compressor starts and it works great triggering around 135 PSI at startup. This solenoid valve is activated by 12V DC so you will need a transformer to operate it, but ASCO valves were too expensive for my budget. I cannibalized an old 12 VCD power adapter to provide the 12 VDC for the relay controller. I have an 80 gallon 7.5HP two stage operating up to 170 PSI. I am using a magnetic motor starter so this gives me both sides of my pressure switch to use. One side activates the magnetic starter and the other side activates the auto purge on startup. I am controlling the auto purge off a double relay controller using and esp8266 micro-controller connected to Home Assistant. I am also using the second relay to break the pressure switch signal to my magnetic starter to automate turning on and off the compressor. I have an automation turn off the compressor every night at 9pm automatically and there is a push button to turn it on for the day or I can operate it from my phone. I will try and provide more details in a video. I just don't have the free cycles to publish one at this time. I also like the idea above for purging the input side after the compressor motor stops. I need to find a 3/4" low restriction solenoid for that purpose as I don't want to hinder my incoming CFM. Link to the solenoid I used here: www.ebay.com/itm/391831185441?hash=item5b3af56821:g:w0cAAOSwaSlfvxJZ Thanks for the video which inspired my design for this solution.
David, wow, you need to make a video on this! Like you, I've since upgraded to a 2-stage, 80 gallon, 7.5hp compressor. I chose a pneumatic moisture minder for this compressor. No power requirements as it uses energy from the unloader valve. Also no wasted air release. I might make a video on it.
Just a note...those mufflers are great, but when they have some months on them, they really start to clog up. It gets to the point where 100% evaporation and dryness just doesn't ever happen, keeps for a very damp environment for that tank. Keep an eye on it and keep a back up on hand!
@@doomsdaydiesel Sorry about that, I've never actually owned the Baomain, it was just a spec-match for the ASCO unit. You do get what you pay for - I found the ASCO on eBay for $41. Worth the price premium by the looks of it.
@@ryang6513 I couldn't find any 220v 1/4" NC on ebay, but I found this to be the cheapest option new: www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-17457-asco-1-4-brass-normally-closed-240v-60-solenoid-valve.aspx I'm running 180psi, so the 145psi units won't cut it.
Thanks for your thoughtful comment. It's been running for two years in continuous use and the wires are not fraying. Please spend five hours and post your own video for zero dollars and let me know when it's ready, so I can reciprocate by posting the same garbage in your comments section.
@@richardengland7077 I added protection to the wires after the video, but I'm sure there are many other shortcomings here as I'm not a licensed electrician or control engineer. Namely, the inclusion of a fuse of circuit breaker inside the box would probably be another good addition, since this is full voltage. Since making this video, I have upgraded my compressor and went with a much superior auto-drain solution: pneumatically operated valves. Lookup the Tsunami Moisture Minder pneumatic drain valve if you're interested. No worrying about electrical power. It uses air from the unloader valve to purge moisture, results in zero loss of tank pressure (no over-draining), and releases that water at a much lower pressure so you don't have to worry about the "jump scare" that results from how the drain is implemented in this video. I might do a follow-up video on the pneumatic valve since there doesn't seem to be much online about it. P.S. No offense taken to constructive criticism. I think it was more so pomonabill220's tact, timing and approach that rubbed me wrongly.
The link for the "More Industrial ASCO Red Hat Part ($36.99)" to eBay is not working. Do you have a part number? Found Number in your wiring diagram --Omron H3Y-2, DPDT, 220v, 0.2 to 5 second model Also the link to Ebay doesn't work for the Timing Relay: Omron H3Y-2 ($4.58): I found the Omron Timer on Amazon cheaper and by another name. www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEQC3SI/?coliid=IGGSY0K3E749G&colid=3OV99EONFVTGM&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Thanks
The wiring diagram shows "Motor L1 to Timer Terminal 13", but it appears you actually are using motor L2 to timer terminal 13 along with Pressure switch L1 to timer 14 to send 220 to the timer. As it shows in the diagram you'd only get one 110 leg to the timer, right? Rick's Torino mentions the same in passing in his comment.
Ok I put this together, mine is a Champion 2 stage 80 gal. upright.I tried to wire to the motor but it was not possible because everything was so tight in there.I ended using the L2 motor wire on the pressure switch wired to terminal 13 on the switching timing relay.I also used the L1 (hot line in lead) on the pressure switch as you did which went to terminal 14 of the switching timing relay.I used larger forked connectors in the pressure switch capable of holding two wires.The 2 LED'S on the switching timing relay works as follows - one LED turns on the set time I have it set to (5 seconds) and then the second led comes on also till the motor shuts off then both LED'S turn off at this point.All in all it works great thanx the youtube on this, great job!!!!!!
You spent $87 ($101 with muffler) to avoid buying a $45 unit with timer, valve and strainer integrated? www.amazon.com/Pukido-Automatic-Compressor-Condensate-Solenoid/dp/B07KX5B9LB/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1544587213&sr=1-2&keywords=220v+timer+drain
Nice job, I'm buying a new compressor, and was looking at the electronic timed drain valves on ebay, but your method looks more reliable, I've been sourcing for the parts on ebay, the parts you listed aren't available here in England. Cheers :)
I just happened on your video and after seeing your current setup I have a compressor life extension tip for your consideration. I've been doing this to compressors since I was a kid and it really helps prolong the motor's life. Install a "T" and solenoid valve in the line between the pump and tank. Then using an on delay timer (exactly what you have) I open the solenoid to bleed pressure to atmosphere for 3 seconds or so. This allows the motor to spin up without risking adding pumping load to the high start current. The tiny mechanical bleed valves that are part of the supplied pressure switch are a good start but not really completing the job. Adding a restriction to your tank drain setup would allow the same timer to do both. I always like to put 3 timers in. First for drain, second for unloaded starting and the third is to shut everything down if something goes wrong and the motor runs continuously for whatever time you choose. I have mine set at 5 minutes in case a hose breaks etc. As another mentioned it's a good idea to tidy up with some LiquidTite. I'd suggest picking up about 8' of 1/2" LiquidTite flexible conduit, 5 straight & 1 - 90° 1/2" LiquidTite connectors, a 1/2" LBC, a 1/2" LBT, oh yeah and a 1/2" close nipple for your Asco valve. It will have a female 1/2" NPT fitting for protecting the conductors. Just a thought. Good day. Side note. eBay has 110V & 220V compressor tank drain/timer solenoid units for about $20. They have 2 dials, purge time 1-6 sec and time between purges up to 45 min. I don't know if they have accumulative timers or just draining around the clock. It is a cheap solution.
So, you just explained how to correct an issue that I realized, well wondered about, "Why the motor is not aloud to reach running speed before pushing more air into a pressurized check valve?" Thank you.
@@modifyman6977 Mechanical pressure relief does relieve the head pressure but doesn't allow the compressor to come up to speed before the small volume of atmospheric pressure is pumped up and offering an increased load before the motor and flywheel are up to speed where they work best. Adding a volume to the pump side of a mechanical pressure relief is a useful modification especially when electricity on sight is only for the spark plug and you have to cobble together a system out of scrap parts far from a paved road. Manufacturers tend to take the cheapest route and if it shortens lifespan it probably sounds good from their end.
Awesome, I plan on doing something similar. A couple of improvements that you should make: Vibration will cause those red solenoid wires to rub through their insulation where you have them passing through the baseplate - it is only a matter of time before your tank is energized and that its ground connection is tested. $10 at Home Depot for a 6ft 1/2" liquid-tite flex conduit can solve that, a couple bucks more for 3/4". I notice that the solenoid has a thread for something to screw in... The second is that green wires should never be used for anything except ground. Red, black, blue, brown, purple, orange etc., are all acceptable for a hot wire, but never green - it is specifically reserved in NEC. White should only be used for neutral too, although it is acceptable to mark that as black with tape.
Thanks Ian, glad you found it useful. Good idea on the additional protection for those wires passing through the baseplate. I did sand down the rouge edges inside those stamped holes, but I like your conduit idea. I have some extra laying around and might see if I can get it to fit in there. And yes, the electrical wiring job here is certainly not to NEC code. I'll be more careful with my color code selections in the future. :)
