Since the module is faulty (and you need to buy a new one) maybe you cannibalize it and place the jumpers on the mating connector. That way it would be a simple matter to plug in and unplug your bypass.
My module wasn’t faulty I just made this video because I was already back there. There are forums out there where people made permanent jumper connectors if that’s what you’re talking about?
Is the shutter problem same symptoms of the common driveshaft issue? A highway speed about 65 miles I feel the vibration. Not sure if it's the drive shaft or the shutter. If I don't go to 65 the truck drives smooth.
It could be the shutter because on my truck it would only do it at highway speeds. I would definitely start there because that’s the easiest and cheapest thing to try instead of messing with the driveshaft
Hey man just recently did this on mine bc I was having the same problem but just 1 day later after install , hitting some bumps the sound came back again on my left side . What else do u think it could be bc no way the links , bushings went bad in just 1 day after hitting bumps
No I sold the truck awhile ago but they were the wheels off the 2018 f150 roush I’m pretty sure. They’re hard to find though since the only way you could get them is from buying a roush f150.
There’s no way that goes into the torque converter. Torque converter sits between engine and tranny. Only way u get fluid in torque converter is separate transmission from engine and remove converter. The fluid in there never gets changed even after a tranny flush.
Did you happen to also get a flashing check engine light that would go away after maybe a min or so? Mine read misfire so replaced plug and coil but same issue happens. So just curious if you or anyone else did the same but shudder fix helped. Thank you!
I don’t see why you wouldn’t be able to so I say go for it. The ones that I bought said they were already greased and that I didn’t have to do anything to them so I went with it. I haven’t had any problems with them since and it’s been 6 months.
My engine idled a little rough but it ended up being my timing chain that needed to be replaced the guy at ford told me that it’s rare for those sensors to fail so you might want to check your timing chain
for me, I removed the air cleaner bracket and the coolant hose and I could get easily access. It's also an 8 mm socket for those who may be doing it. Thanks for the video.
Thank you I just added the 8mm to the description I thought that’s what it was but it had been so long since I had done it I didn’t want to put the wrong size
I believe I have the same issue your explaining and I’ve done some research and I also believe it’s the torque converter. Sounds like a shutter/ rumbling / somethings is rubbing sound … sometimes it’s when accelerating from 3-4 gear and then just coasting .. but anyways what I’m wondering is since I am also going to do a transmission oil service should I add this after I drop the oil or after I add the new transmission fluid?
I would say after so it stays in there longer. I also heard that sometimes the problem is fixed with just a fluid change and nothing else. The old dirty fluid could be part of the reason it’s slipping.
On these particular model transmission that is where you check and service the fluid. It cannot be done from underneath the hood or engine bay area. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks a bunch buddy! The newer ones are on the top. That picture helped a ton! I think I got it done in about an hour. No room back there. I was able to push one of the hoses out of the way to get a little more room. I put a blanket over the engine and laid on top of it to work on this. 👍🏻
That is a good question. Ford engine miss will mimic converter shudder in older trucks and if left missing it will kill the transmission but the 6r80 it is commonly a shudder. This fixed mine until I can replace filter and refill. I lifted the passenger side, cold and not running. I added the Shudder Fix and let sit about 30 min and drove about 60 miles and haven't felt it since.
I’m ready to do this now. Two questions; what size socket and is there a difference between the parts for bank one or two? Auto one didn’t give me a choice. Thanks for the vid!!!
I’m tempted to trade it in and get a new truck but I’m sure I won’t get anything for it and the new tundras are over 50 K plus you can only get them with V6 turbo so they might not be as reliable as the old V8 as well
Thank you ! Perfect description of how to do the job. VERY tight space. Used a mirror to ID the bolt then it was all based off of feel and the description of your video.
People just because you get that code, it does not always mean your sensor is bad. I had that code and it was my timing chain that was stretched causing the code to trigger. Yes I got it fixed. Had to replace my timing chain, guides, two of my cam phasers, and had the internal part of the water pump replaced (because they were already in there it was preventive maintenance). Cost me around $3500.
@brett.peacock damn that's cheap! I took it to an independent shop because they could get it in right away. The dealership had it for a week and still did not look at it. Regardless, it was still the around the same price.
@brett.peacock one guy was working on an engine and another a transmission. I do know the dealership was going to remove my cab to do it because its easier that way. The other shop had a young guy who was like 6ft. 4in work on mine. He took the whole front of my truck apart to do it.
Brett, thanks so much for putting this together. There seemed to be quite a lack of information about 3.5l V6 Cam sensors until I found this, which clearly shows which sensors are which. I'm working on an Edge, I managed to get the Bank 1, Sensor B out using a long handle flex ratchet and medium extension. Unfortunately the CT parts guy had looked up a crank, not CAM position sensor so I'll have to wait for the right part before I can see if I can get it all back together. I only had to take off the air box leading to the throttle body to get access to the sensors on bank 1 (closest tot he firewall on a FWD vehicle). Many thanks again.
Got the new sensor installed and all seems to be working fine. Took a combination of flexible retrieval magnet, extra long pliers, various extension combinations, hand contortions, and more to get the new sensor in place and tightened down! But didn't take too long overall. Thanks again for taking the time Brett.
