Welcome to the Kolbroshop's channel. Metal machining, tool reviews (tools that we use in our shop), metal welding, and a lot of other homeshop related themes can be found here.
Excellent method, thank you for sharing. Every other method I have watched involves a dead center with some parallel. My dead center is like the one you have used.👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Excellent, I have the metal diagrams on my wall of things I want to make but haven't yet. I was never quite sure how to use this but now I understand. I'll still be making mine from metal as I have purchased the gears but its great to see it in operation thank you
You made me laugh, you're right, this hobby is a 'money pit'!🤣😂🤣Your vlog was really informative, two really cool techniques to add to my bag of tricks - thanks 👍👍
@@kolbroshop884 How do you like it after using it for the last year or so. what did you change if anything? Overall thoughts would be interesting. I have one too and it prints great medium to small objects. Larger ones it hit or miss.
Very nice informative video, thank you! On the chart i'm missing some pitches like 0.5mm (M3) and 1mm (M6) ? Can you cut these pitches too, or is the diagram only for one of the 3 gears, and you only demonstrated 1 gear?
I tried this method by using a drill chuck shank with a #2 Morse taper and Jacobs taper for the drill chuck. This shank was new and had a good centre hole on each end. Thus the OD's must be concentric to these centre holes right??? No way! Each taper was NOT concentric to the centre hole's axis, the run-out was more than .006". So much for that idea. The best I could come up with was to put a #1 Morse taper dead centre into a #1 to #2 Morse taper adapter which had a centre hole in the closed end. Still not perfect and I had to do some tweaking to get the machined taper right. As a consequence I now avoid machining Morse or other machine tool tapers as these require too much fiddling to get right. I'd just as soon buy the correct taper and adapt it if necessary.
@@kolbroshop884 hello i printed those stops from thingyverse and found i cant get the bed closer to the nozzle while these are in place. my previous printer is a tronxy xy2 pro and that works perfectly. i bought myself this x5sa-400 and spent the time building it. I managed to get the values close to 0 but my problem im having now is trying to get a print in cura to start in the middle of the printer and not to the front left corner where is seems to be just going back and forth. You got any videos that show what you use to splice
@@ninolongobardi5484 sorry but i didnt have this kind of problem, mine prints on the position where i locate it in cura, this looks like a software problem to me.
M107 G92 E0 M190 S65 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached M104 S190 ; set temperature G28 ; home all axes G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle ; Filament gcode M109 S190 ; set temperature and wait for it to be reached G21 ; set units to millimeters G90 ; use absolute coordinates M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion G92 E0 G1 Z0.400 F12000.000 G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000 G92 E0
How do this chinese chucks stack up? I'm looking into buying one, I only have original emco 3 jaw and 4 jaw, but the 4 jaw is bassicle a standard chuck and can't be centered. Could you provide the stl for the toolholder?
Hello Harald, where do you get the paperwork for the settings of the treads , I have the same lathe as yourself, and also what size and make of tool post are you using ,thanks mike
@@stephendrziak1877 then i dont know yet, but it is an interesting topic to research, i think with a little of math involved and testing on the lathe itself, it should be solvable...
Can you add some text in a text block in Draft? I want to take some text from excel or word and import it into Draft Freecad. I want to print out the drawing and the text.
