Everyday Mechanic and Fabrication is a channel for DIY mechanics. We know there is a lot of highly trained shops out there but we just love to do our own work when possible. Here we share our knowledge and experience to help you do your own work if you desire. Please know that we are not multi million dollar shop people but have years of experience from building Asphalt races cars, Engines, Transmissions and chassis set up to just everyday automotive stuff. We would prefer to build it with our own hands than pay someone else to do it for us. There may be better ways to do stuff but the videos we make are showing how we do it and gladly welcome you advice on how we could do it better(we may even use it to update a video and give you the credit).
According to a few other forums who have loaded up the Ford Manual page, it lists the torque at 10 LBS or 14 Newton something (metric). Thanks for the video!
Watching your video has been a serious help, keep them coming! A question, 1995 4r44e behind a 3.0 V6. It has a 5 clutch forward clutch drum. top 3 clutches were worn out not steel to steel cross hatch on a couple side was gone and friction base and adjacent steels were pretty much burnt Truck lost all forward gears. Is the 6 clutch forward clutch drum from the 4r55e a possible upgrade? Oh and in middle of taking forward clutch drum it rolled of table and cracked hub so I have to get a new hub anyway just wondering if 6 clutch hub is an option?
Customer complained about vibrations and noice from a fairly new brake job. You only changed the pads and rotors. You did not clean the hub nor cleaned the caliper sliding pins? Customer will have the same problem in like 2-3 months….
Are you still planning on doing a rebuild of this transmission? Got one of my own and would like to see someone who knows what they are doing rebuild one.
I have a question about my 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. (2WD Automatic) It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally. Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts. I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer. Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage. I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
thinking of changing my own breaks. this helps alot. out where i am there is no service that can service my American Ford Fusion. the American standard for repair is crazy different that it is here in Europe. (in the EU theres a special document for all eu spec cards that has all the part codes for everything, without one a mechanic will not touch the vehicle. not even an official dealer.)
Most cars can be jacked up and get to the band adjusters on the side. These Ford Rangers fit that category. It's the same process of loosening the nuts and torque the adjuster. Once torqued I'd make a mark on the adjuster to be able to count the back turns(silver sharpie usually works well). Then tighten the nut same as in video. If you run out of threads on the adjuster, the band may be worn too far and need a rebuild anyways so be sure to not adjust beyond threads for nut.
first of all, when you put in a new rotor, you need to lubricate the hub assembly to prevent burning rotor to it. so this video is a little mess for me
Great explanation. I'm thinking of changing my brakes myself. It seems pretty straight forward. Ive done very light self maintenance on cars before, would you say this is something a novice can do without much fuss? Also, are there places that loan a tool? I dont have a piston presser or a torque bar.
I think a novice can do the work, but maybe have someone with skills double check or help. It's just a safety risk if not done correctly. Ad for loaner tools, most part stores do a loaner tool program. You actually pay for the tool when you get it, then they give full refund when you return it back. However the tool can be purchased at Harbor Freight for $39. Here is link to the one I use in video. www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-11-piece-63264.html
Yes, that's what the Maddox brake tool kit is for or you can use c-clamps like old school. I prefer the brake tool as it is easier and insures the caliper goes straight.
It should have no issue with the Ford C4. I actually found it on Amazon and this is the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XHGLR8L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
