Thanks for the question. The best the 70lbs will do with my 2.5ton boat is just under 3 knots in still water. So yes it will go upstream in gentle flow but if the flow reaches 3 knots you will go nowhere. It would certainly do a great deal better than a 34lb trolling motor and to some degree it will depend on your boat, its weight and hull efficiency. I used a 70 lb motor on our trip to the Kimberley where the current can be fierce and I certainly wouldn't even try use it against those currents. It excels a a supplementary power source or a primary one in light winds and low currents, or travelling with currents or supplementing sails in marginal conditions. Cheers Mark

@@TRAILERYACHTADVENTURES I am perhaps going to get a new sea eagle 437ps Paddleski .. But the boat I have now because of the hull shape sea eagle se9 I can't go upstream really. The paddle ski only weights 68 lbs. Far from 2.5 ton LOL. Do you think in my paddle ski with the 70 lbs I could go upstream easily or not so easy. Thanks again.

@@sutv6754 The 70lbs will push the paddle ski against a current well but the top speed may only be 4 knots or so. Trolling motors propellor pitch is designed for slower speeds, the additional thrust will make up for the current and should get close to the prop speed. The only thing I would say is how is the motor mounted? The 70lb motor is about 14kg for memory and if side mounted on the ski will cause it to feel unbalanced. I tried the 70lb motor on my double kayak with a side mount and it flew though the water but you had to constantly lean to the opposite side to compensate for the weight of the motor. I currently only use an 18lb motor on the kayak and it pushes it along at and average paddle speed and although not great in currents and strong head winds it does cope reasonably and weighs very little. Hope all this is of some help. Cheers Mark

Glad you enjoyed the videos. The Kimberley is a magic place and should be something we all should have access to the the chance to see. I is a beautiful and remote wilderness. As you clearly have experienced, when people do the wrong things the rules and regulations explode and ruin it for the majority of travellers that do the right thing. With the Kimberley, the tensions between indigenous and and non indigenous are also having increasing restrictions put in place. Some of the communities have embraced the sharing of their lands and do a great job with their permit systems whilst others seem to want to close it off completely. Sadly the $$$ to be made seem to also have impacts on increasing rules being put in place. All I know it is a truly beautiful place that all Australians should have the ability to see in their lifetime. Life has been busy lately, so less videos, but there will be more when time permits. Cheers Mark

Hi Mark, nice to hear from you. Life has got busy with grand kids, house rennos, and endless other projects despite being retired. So I don't do so many videos for youtube anymore. As you know I am not much of a racer but maybe for fun one year I would do the MPONR. I will keep you in mind if I do. Do you still get out sailing on Port Phillip? I miss the bay sailing but with the boat on the jetty on the lakes here most of the time its easier to sail here.

Yes its not silent but it is quieter than a lot of the cheaper units I have tried in the past. Mine is at the other end of the boat to where I sleep so I don't notice it. I do turn it off at night when others are sleeping onboard.

Pretty funny, at 1.50 you say that you can hardly hear it running

@@wayofthesamurai90 I bought one based on this installation. It's noisy. It works but it is really noisy

Thought it would never move but on the return trip it was gone.... totally shocked! :)

Glad you enjoyed it. Life gets busy with grand kids and looking after old dogs so not as many trips at the moment. Not sure if I am ready for a new boat quiet yet, quite like my Neringa at the moment. Cheers Mark

Gippsland often has great periods of beautiful winter weather, seems a waste not to use it. As a bonus the lakes are nearly deserted with no big motor boats not giving way or creating mountainous wakes close by :)

No not yet. I am not much of a racer by nature and get very on edge when boats get too close. Maybe one day just to have a bit of fun!

Yes, mud islands was one of my favorite trips on PPB. Really miss the PPB sailing now I live in Gippsland. Great spot. Glad you enjoyed the video. Trips have been a bit limited with sick old dogs and lots of commitments. Hopefully I will get out a bit more in the coming months. Cheers Mark

Thanks Aaron, appreciate the comment. Trailer sailers can be incredibly capable boats, like all boats some more than others. I have been criticised by some for some of the sailing I have done but the truth is that its the skipper, in most cases, that fails and puts the boat in danger rather than the boat failing and putting the skipper in danger. Put a foolhardy skipper in the best keel boat and they will get into strife. Having said that there are some trailer sailers that are very lightly built and would be less suitable. RL28's are a great cruising boat and in my view strongly built. I have strengthened my rig, added ballast and strengthened my keel lifting point to increase the seaworthiness. The keel lifting point is probably the weakest part of the RL28 and even though I have only heard of one failing on a neglected moored boat, it is critical, as it can potentially crack the keel case if it fails and sink the boat as the keel swings forward. Having said that I have complete faith in mine as do 100's of other RL28 owners. The hard part is finding one for sale these days as most tend to hold on to them. The larger boat is nice for the extra space it provides and comfort for cruising. I would be happy to do some of the more challenging trips I have done in a well built trailer sailer of at least 7m although with careful planning even 6m would be fine but less comfortable. Hope you get inspired and get out there and explore some of the amazing places you can get to with a TS. Cheers Mark

There are a lot more electronically controlled gimbals now which work brilliantly. Back then they were very rare. The line is there but a dull green coloured spectra fishing line which is very strong and thin and is hard to spot. I still use the kite occasionally but the drone has taken over a lot now. The camera mount is designed to keep the camera pointing parallel to the line and hangs 40cm below the line so the boat is always in the frame. That also makes it hard to see the line at most points as it only enters the frame at some distance from the camera. Cheers Mark

No worries. Doing a trip through the Kimberley the hardest thing is to find enough information. I spent months collecting info from lots of places. Happy to talk through email or phone. You find my email on the home page just below the title is this line: "We all crave adventures and what better way than in a trailersailer." There is a side ways arrow at the end of this line. If you are signed in and click on this you will get to the email. If you email me first I can either talk on the email or I will send back my phone number. Have to do all this cause it is risky to put these details directly on a public forum. Happy to help if I can and it might take some time to find the sources I used in some cases. Cheers Mark

Hi Richard, Its a good question and I probably don't have the full answer yet. I used heaps of the water absorbing canasters in the boat over the last couple of winters and the mold seemed to still appear frequently. I have been told that is more about the air circulation rather than just the moisture but cant really give an opinion until I have had the boat through a winter with the solar vent. We have had a cool damp summer since installing the vent and there has been little sign of mould growth since. Having said that we use the boat more in summer so it gets naturally ventilated more often than winter. The other consideration is that the solar vent mostly runs 24hours a day in summer but now the days are shortening and especially on cloudy days the vent is not running by morning so will be shifting less air in winter. I think the theory is that the mold spores are very light so any air current will stop them settling and if the air is exhausted even better. You dehumidifier may also work if it sets up some constant air movement inside the cabin. I you go that way let me know how it turns out, I would be very interested. Cheers Mark

Hi Mark. Appreciate your reply. The humidifier has a fan drawing air in and then out so it should provide some air circulation. I’ll give it a go and let you know how it turns out. Oh just for info I have a 1985 Sabre 22 and been learning how to sail over the past couple of years. Cheers Rich

Thanks for such a positive comment. I Really need to get out to some new cruising but keep getting other projects going that take up my time. Was it Thursday last week? I was on my way back from the Perry River, which is a real favoritet these days, and passed a Southern Cross heading west towards Hollands Landing. If it was you the boat was sailing really well. I always look out for Southern Cross's out on the water being my last boat. They are great, robust and forgiving sailing boats that I have a great respect and fondness for. Cheers Mark

I do empty water tanks before lifting but the 1400kg given by Rob Legg is generally considered by most as a large underestimate. Its never been clear exactly what that has included. The amount of internal ballast in them varied over time with some having up to 250kg of extra ballast added. The specs also claimed a 40% ballast ratio. This really only applied to the most heavily ballasted version that would have had an empty weight approaching 1600kg. So to be on the safe side with the stand I allowed at least a tonne over the 1400kg. And yes once you start adding up all the additions you would be surprized how quickly it adds up. 140kg of added permanent ballast, 14hp 4 stroke motor, fuel tank, 2 anchors and associated chains, tv, extra cabinetry, marine toilet and holding tank and associated plumbing, water pumps, safety gear, electronics, 2 x 130ah lead batteries, 150ah lithium battery, 100ah lithium battery, davits and solar panels, water maker, diesel heater and fuel tank, anchor winch, furler, various spares and repair kits, cooking utensils, basic long life food supplies and cutlery, fridge and compressor, rolled up inflatable tender, electric trolling motor and I am sure I have still missed some things. My boat is not a racing boat and is always stocked for cruising so I can just jump on and go with a minimum of stocking. I did do the maths for this list before the Kimberley trip and for memory it came to well over 800kg of extras. Sure I could take out quite a lot of the above but it would take a couple of days and be a real pita. So I just made sure the stands were up to the job with most of it still in the boat. So as you can see if the real empty weight of the RL28 is probably closer to 1500kg there isn't much change out of 2400kg. Cheers Mark

@@TRAILERYACHTADVENTURES Agreed, they always weight much more than the manufacturers dry weight. Especially decades after rolling off the production line.. A few of the guys on the RL Facebook site have been over weighbridges recently and report a total towing weight of 2.8 and 2.9. (trailer included) With your additions it makes sense the boat would be "up there" now. I owned one years ago when weights werent so important (urm , at least not legally). Im considering another one and selling my current sonata. Just trying to decide if my Trailblazer will be legal.. At three tons max, it will be close without having to do gvm upgrades or change the car to a 3.5t ute.

You sound like a kindred spirit. I have always lived in the bush and moved from the Macedon ranges 70km north of Melbourne where I ran a small wholesale plant nursery and worked part time teaching a the local high school. Sadly the "gentrification" of so many beautiful places in the bush and near the ocean has changed their character, less friendly and more obsessed with wealth and status. It is one of the reasons for leaving Macedon hoping the lakes were far enough away. As you have said it is also starting here. I am lucky to be out in the bush and near the water with some really nice neighbours. It is so beautiful to walk along the lake shores on calm mornings, listen to the birdsong that nearly always fills the air and off course enjoy the tranquility of long sails on the lakes. I often sail alone and often to the far corners of the lakes. Its a wonderful way to connect with your thoughts, the beautiful environment and feel at peace. Hope your move to Melbourne is a good one and that you still come back to the Gippy lakes regularly to reconnect and remember the joy of the place. Kind wishes Mark

Thanks for the feedback. Way back listening to some clubman owners talking about the concept led me to think about it more and make my modification. Its the easiest way to reduce the tiller pressure on a transom hung rudder. Too much and the rudder will lock over sideways but the right amount and its perfect. Cheers Mark :)

Thanks for the comment. Yes I love the electric and as long as people realize it is not a replacement for the petrol it has many great applications on a sail boat. Cheers Mark

Yes, but only on the yacht where it added about 0.2 of a knot in speed. The instructions warn not to use it for longer periods as I often do on the yacht as it can cause damage to the motor so I avoid doing so. I am sure on the dinghy it would give 0.5 of a knot or more in extra speed. For the difference in speed I prefer not to over stress the motor. Cheers Mark

13.4kg, its not super light but still quite manageable. Cheers Mark

Hi Mark, It would take a lot of panels. The motor at full power uses just on 50amps. The current panels under ideal solar conditions can produce about 10amp under ideal condition (theoretically 12.5amps). So to run the motor you would need 5 times the current panels which would almost be possible space wise. The problem is that ideal conditions are rare and no matter how you place the panels on a sail boat there will often be times panels are shaded. So to be sure of running a 50amp motor on panels alone you would need 10 times the current solar panels and that would be difficult given the size of the boat. I have some amusing discussions with people saying they are going to make their boat entirely solar running much larger electric motors, induction cooktops, microwaves, water makers, electric hot water, etc etc... and only have 180w of solar panels and 150 amp hours of batteries. When you do the maths the battery would be flattened in minutes and sufficient batteries would take up huge space and the solar panels to charge them in a reasonable amount of time would take a boat 10 times the size. Solar powered things on a boat need to be modest and charging needs time at anchor and supplement from a generator, an outboard alternator, or a wind generator or all three. At the end of the day I am happy to have a 3 hour battery for the trolling motor with some extension of this from the panels and the ability to fully recharge at anchor. Cheers Mark

@@TRAILERYACHTADVENTURES Hi Mark, thanks for your reply. My brother wants to do what other have said and I keep coming back to what you said. Was thinking of going down the Murray River just on solar and I kept on saying you need more panels and batteries. I also said maybe you could have a wind turbine as well and maybe a water turbine. But as you and I know it comes back to apps and room and most important money. I tell him it will take a lot on money to set up but I say this… you are sending all your fuel now ( for let’s say 5/7 years) upfront and now you can go for 5/7 years with out having to pay for any more fuel.

With a modest battery bank and a few more solar panels its workable as long as you don't think you can go all day every day and take time to stop for a day or 2 to let your battery bank charge up again. After all that's what most people would do travelling the Murray, stop regularly to enjoy the bush and the river from the bank :)

I been told it is cheaper to get a second battery for longer range.@@TRAILERYACHTADVENTURES

Hi Mark, I replied to this but it vanished. The climate down here is very mild and often the warmest part of Victoria in winter. The mould is most problematic in winter when the boat is closed up for longer periods. I am sure the mouldy Triton next door doesn't help either. Neringa is very airtight so the vent will create a constant movement of air through the cabin which I am told goes a long way towards keeping the mould away. Yes the boat Murray next door is a classic wooden boat and has only moved in recently. I hope her owners start restoring her as there is quite a bit of timber showing though damaged paintwork. I am sure the triton is a great boat, this one is sadly very neglected and hasn't moved for years. Cheers Mark

Thanks for the heads up. Yes epoxy over the painted surface is the most permanent way to do it and if I was a lot younger I would have probably done that. My reasoning is the high strength marine silicone I use is guaranteed for 20 years and I have had below water through hull ports sealed with it for more than that without leakage. I smeared the cut surface liberally with the silicone as well as applied it to the deck flange. I have had cheap Bunnings silicone fail after only a few years and would never use it on a boat again. In 20 years I will be over 80 and I suspect my sailing days will be diminishing substantially. Cheers Mark

I dont get it. Do you drill and install before the epoxy is set? Why would epoxy not leak if you drilled through it?

Thanks for the thumbs up. Apart from moving and setting up a new home in Metung, we currently have an old dog with dementia that hates the water and being on the boat. Makes longer trips a bit difficult but hopefully will be doing some shorter ones on the lakes soon. Cheers Mark

Thanks for the feedback. I enjoy the challenge of editing a good video so its good to know its appreciated. Cheers Mark

Hi Alex, I don't have plans but the concept is straight forward. The most critical parts are the slots in the stands must not be more than 5mm wider than the lifting beams. The beams I used have an ultimate strength of 2200kg held at the center of the beam whilst lifting at the ends. This was calculated by and engineer. Bottom line is I wouldn't try lift a boat more than 3000kg total to allow a substantial margin for safety. The beams need to have formed lifting blocks on top of the beams to spread the load on the hull and to also spread the load on the beam meaning they can do better than 2200kg ultimate. These blocks also stabilize the boat acting like a cradle. Obviously these blocks need to be made to match your specific hull shape. I made mine out of 75mm treated pine sleepers and shaped them using cardboard templates. I cant see any issue in making them a foot higher as long as you can find high lift jacks that will lift sufficiently high enough remembering the beam and the hull blocks will add around 140mm to the jack height. If you do make the stands, make sure the high lift jacks are rated for 3 tonnes. Take careful note of their base position. It must be inside the leg of the stand and back from the edge facing the boat. This provides stability of the stands tipping towards the boat. Similarly the small angles welded to the underside of the lifting beams towards their ends are important for this inward stability. When setting up the stands they must be levelled in both directions. Without this the beams will be prone to sticking as they travel up or down. Best on reasonably level ground but the stands will work when not completely all at the same level. Love my stands and they have well paid for themselves in the number of times I have lifted my boat to work on. Hope this is of some help. Cheers Mark

Hi Mark, Nice to hear from you. Been doing lots of small trips on the lakes since moving here but not long enough for videos. Too much house renovating. I have been multiple times across to the Perry (90nM return) in the last 12 months, taken up bow hunting and there is a good place over there for deer and rabbits. I really need to get out for a new trip some time soon for a new video. Been thinking going up Bunga arm to its very eastern end might be interesting. Cheers Mark

@@TRAILERYACHTADVENTURES hi Mark, thanks for the reply. Hopefully I may come down your way soon. Maybe February. Will keep you informed. Mark

If you do, let us know, would be great to catch up. Cheers Mark@@CaptMarkSVAlcina

Thankyou for the offer but there are still a few adventures I want to take Neringa on so not quite ready to let her go yet. Cheers Mark

Thanks for the comment. Yes the country up there is just magic. A place everyone should see at least once. Even Helen who is not a sailer said she would go back there in a heart beat which is high praise indeed. Cheers Mark

There was no recommendation for a shackle with this winch. The swivel was super heavy duty with pins twice that of the shackle I would have used. I did use thread locker when installing as the sliding slot on the anchor may have worked the pin loose. I am not sure if the shackle is needed, I have had my arrangement for quite a few years now and have no issues with it at all in that time including during our 3 month Kimberley trip where the pressures on the anchor in the huge tides were often a real challenge for the anchor. The swivel pin has little signs of wear and has never shown any inclination to work itself loose. Cheers Mark

Good to know! Cheers Marki

Glad it was helpful! Cheers Mark

Glad it was helpful! Cheers Mark

Hi Peter, Congratulations on your boat purchase. I have always used 10m ropes on the jib as that is what Whitworths sells in discount prepackaged lengths. They are about right depending on what jib you are using. Unless the mast rigging has been changed the backstay on an RL28 doesn't hold the mast up, it is used for changing the shape of the mast and sail using a small block and tackle on the vee wire that the pulley at the end of the backstay should attach to. What holds up the mast are the swept back side stays. My mast sits on the boat when packed with the base of the mast forward. When setting up I move the mast back until the end lines up with the mast bracket on the cabin roof. I then use the spinnaker pole as a gin pole alone with a jib sheet to pull the mast up. The side stays will go tight when vertical and then I attach the forestay turnbuckle to secure the mast and rigging. The side rigging should stay attached when packed up. I would check your boat, are the side rigging bolts rearward of the mast step? Are all the side stays still attached and in place? Is the mast bottom end forward on your packed up boat? If so your mast can be put up without the rear stay being tight as described above. Once up you can work out the rear stay, just make sure it is not too short when lifting the mast. If you answered no to the above questions your rigging has been changed from standard and without seeing it cannot really advise you. Just be aware it is a heavy mast and working out a way to raise it is pretty essential unless you have 2 strong blokes handy to manhandle it up. For memory my "Melbourne to Portarlington" video has some footage of my original lifting system. Hope this helps. Cheers Mark

Thanks for the comment. 15kg which is oversize for the length and weight of the RL28 but it has never let me down. cheers Mark

I got mine as scrap being sold on gumtree. Took a while to find enough but got it for $2 a kg which these days is cheap

Forgot to say I melted it in an old cooking pot over a has ring burner and molded it in rectangular tin down pipe with one side cut off and supported in a sand bed

It was a while ago but for memory it was early May with a nice big strong high moving over Vic.

Glad you enjoyed it